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Devil Magnum

Here's a pic of the bridge spacer.
View attachment 4214126
Control and pu cavities routed, pu wire channel drilled and ready for a final sanding.
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Final mockup with all parts - 7lbs/6oz. Will wait until the body comes back finished to wire it up. All tolerances are set - will just need final assembly, stringing it up and plugging it in.
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While the body is away waiting to be finished, I'll do fussy work on the pg so the edges are refined. Will also work on the two upper pg finger rests.
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Some damn fine work !
 
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I didn't have ebony on hand but did have birds-eye maple.

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A little Higgins Eternal permanent black ink followed by a couple coats of satin clear lacquer -
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sorted - I'll use small flat-head screws on the underside to connect the finger rests to the pg.
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Does anyone have insights about a Curtis Novak DS/BS pu? Apparently there is a coil-tap or coil segregation/separation (?) option on a certain level of his pu's. Mine is a Bi-Sonic Darkstar and has a red & white wire that is taped together. (versed in this) I've researched how it is wired using a mini-toggle switch... but is mine one that will 'hook-up' in that way?
 
Does anyone have insights about a Curtis Novak DS/BS pu? Apparently there is a coil-tap or coil segregation/separation (?) option on a certain level of his pu's. Mine is a Bi-Sonic Darkstar and has a red & white wire that is taped together. (versed in this) I've researched how it is wired using a mini-toggle switch... but is mine one that will 'hook-up' in that way?
Write Curtis, or call he's friendly.
 
Does anyone have insights about a Curtis Novak DS/BS pu? Apparently there is a coil-tap or coil segregation/separation (?) option on a certain level of his pu's. Mine is a Bi-Sonic Darkstar and has a red & white wire that is taped together. (versed in this) I've researched how it is wired using a mini-toggle switch... but is mine one that will 'hook-up' in that way?
There are a few TB threads about this. Pulled these out of one of em:

image.jpg
Novak BS-DS coil tap.jpg
 
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There are a few TB threads about this. Pulled these out of one of em:

View attachment 4231279 View attachment 4231280

:) Thanks! I found this breakdown of technically what it does. Anyone tried it with a Novak DS/BS? I went through the tb related threads but none address a DS/BS specifically. From this description/overview, it sounds like it would make it sound/more closely resemble a vintage Fender single-coil, but have less output? I guess my next question is - would this be worth doing?

Coil splitting refers in particular to humbucking pickups, in which two coils of wire and two magnets are used together. These coils and magnets are of opposite polarity, which cancels (“bucks”) unwanted noise and hum and produces higher output and a thicker, heavier sound. In coil splitting, the connection between the two coils of a humbucking pickup is broken, disabling one coil and allowing the other to continue to function.

In effect, coil splitting turns a humbucking pickup into a single-coil pickup - a useful feature for guitarists who like both options at their fingertips without having to switch guitars. On instruments that feature it, coil splitting is usually accomplished by means of various onboard switching types.

Coil tapping, on the other hand, refers in particular to single-coil pickups. Tapping a coil means taking the signal from somewhere within the coil of wire rather than from the end of it, thus reducing pickup output (more windings means higher output); it too is accomplished by onboard switching. Some high-output single-coil pickups use coil taps to produce lower output that more closely resembles that of, say, a vintage Fender single-coil pickup.

Of the two features, coil splitting is more prevalent than coil tapping.
 
:) Thanks! I found this breakdown of technically what it does. Anyone tried it with a Novak DS/BS? I went through the tb related threads but none address a DS/BS specifically. From this description/overview, it sounds like it would make it sound/more closely resemble a vintage Fender single-coil, but have less output? I guess my next question is - would this be worth doing?

Coil splitting refers in particular to humbucking pickups, in which two coils of wire and two magnets are used together. These coils and magnets are of opposite polarity, which cancels (“bucks”) unwanted noise and hum and produces higher output and a thicker, heavier sound. In coil splitting, the connection between the two coils of a humbucking pickup is broken, disabling one coil and allowing the other to continue to function.

In effect, coil splitting turns a humbucking pickup into a single-coil pickup - a useful feature for guitarists who like both options at their fingertips without having to switch guitars. On instruments that feature it, coil splitting is usually accomplished by means of various onboard switching types.

Coil tapping, on the other hand, refers in particular to single-coil pickups. Tapping a coil means taking the signal from somewhere within the coil of wire rather than from the end of it, thus reducing pickup output (more windings means higher output); it too is accomplished by onboard switching. Some high-output single-coil pickups use coil taps to produce lower output that more closely resembles that of, say, a vintage Fender single-coil pickup.

Of the two features, coil splitting is more prevalent than coil tapping.
I have wired humbuckers to isolate a coil. For a tap the maker would have to have stuck leads in mid coil, which is what I suppose novak does? If you're just getting less winds, I'd expect slightly lower output (depending on where the tap is in the coil) and a little brighter tone. I guess it might be more vintage-y like an older single coil with less winds.

If you can do it, I say do it (but then I like extra knobs and switches :D)
 
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I have wired humbuckers to isolate a coil. For a tap the maker would have to have stuck leads in mid coil, which is what I suppose novak does? If you're just getting less winds, I'd expect slightly lower output (depending on where the tap is in the coil) and a little brighter tone. I guess it might be more vintage-y like an older single coil with less winds.

If you can do it, I say do it (but then I like extra knobs and switches :D)

I like extra this or that if it offers something useful. Case in point, my '63 Burns of London Vista Sonic has a rotary switch/knob and the top-setting is WILD DOG. (!) I expected something... wild, but instead it sounds anemic/shrill and is pretty useless. The N&B pu linkage was reverse-wired, which is more of a guitar thing from what I learned. I reversed those two wires and it now sounds like a nice Jazz Bass (scooped N&B) I also like the series/parallel switch on my G&L L2000 preamp powered bass. (dual MDF buckers) Even with a slight output level drop in series, it sounds good and is a useful tonal option. Mid-sweep is also useful but I can do w/o it.

Someone along the way installed a mini kill-switch. A useful simple mod.
upload_2021-4-11_12-1-48.jpeg

very steampunk - an example of postwar England technology
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