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Did I just pay a high price for my eagerness?

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image.jpg Are these Elf's smaller than the GK 200?
 
I would replace it with a quilter bass block 800 you can find one here for $500 or less awesome amp.


It used to be a jumper and a fuse change on the old TEs, if memory serves (DownUnderWonder can confirm, as sadly I sold my main TEs, just a jam session combo left). But the fuse change was very much required. The ELFs are probably much the same.
 
You could probably have some capacitors replaced and be rocking and rolling again
Or you could spend $120.00 on 4 new capacitors and pay your friend with an associates degree in electronics to install them backwards like I did 30 years ago with my favorite little combo amp that started farting out. Then you could be there when the guy is finished putting it back together to turn it on just to hear the squeal of death and watch the magic smoke come out it...
 
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Also, to the dude with the GK that "didn't even need to change a fuse", that seems extremely suspect and if you didn't actually confirm that through the manual or through contacting GK tech support or some other highly reliable means, you may want to look into that right away. Physics is physics and math is math, so it's generally wise to defer to them first and anything else second. Perhaps there's some tricksy engineering going on that obviates the necessity to change fuses, but it seems unlikely. Or if you're going the "right" way (ie from a 220v to 110v supply), you may be cutting off a lot of the capacity of the amp with too small a fuse (ie it will blow before it actually needs to).

Many integrated products do not require a fuse change because the system and its components, regardless of its operating voltage, has been designed with this in mind. The fuse size is determined based on the ability to support the intended operation at the lowest line voltage (typically 85-90 volts for a product that operates at 100 volts in Japan) as well as clear a fault that might otherwise result in personal injury (shock) or property damage (fire). The design has been tested and certified under the worst case conditions (including 10% high line voltage).

I have designed numerous products that include this feature, it's almost standard in auto sensing and auto-configuring power supplies.

This surprises me, too. Most newer digital devices like cell phones can operate 110/220.
Yes they can, at higher powers (like the larger amps), this feature adds a fair amount of cost to the design. Still, I favor it because it results in a more touring friendly amp. Unfortunately, there are a lot of cheap consumers out there that would take a $30 less amp (at retail) in place of this feature. That's where the pressure comes from.
 
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Not possible, would violate every safety standard in the civilized world.

Fuses and components are sized to protect people and property, not necessarily the equipment itself. This is why a single fuse size can be chosen, the size is calculated and tested to clear faults to protect against shock and fire once the over-CURRENT event happens. This was an over-VOLTAGE event that caused damage that resulted in over-current. The progress of faults ares part of the safety certification process.
If I understand you, the main fuse is only there to cut off the mains after the horse bolted so to speak but stop the barn from burning down. It is still a mystery how the GK can do it all with one fuse.
 
I will try that too. The GC sales rep assured my friend that this will work with the 220V electrical system. that's why I instructed him to buy it right away.



Yes it comes with a cable and I was using that cable itself.
My understanding is that a 5-15 plug is for 115V.

Does your country use 5-15 or 6-15 plugs as a standard?
Seems like supplying a 5-15 wall receptacle is a recipe for disaster
If I understand you, the main fuse is only there to cut off the mains after the horse bolted so to speak but stop the barn from burning down. It is still a mystery how the GK can do it all with one fuse.
Because the testing agencies (UL, CSA......), test the life out of products before they sign off on them. If you build stuff, you have to give them a few pieces of you product to destroy.
 
This is not the kind of thing that is warranty-protected. But, as others have noted, the manufacturer should be able to offer you a repair and under the circumstances they might give you a good price...customer acquisition and loyalty are big to any company and a smart one would see this kind of thing as a way to create a customer who is likely to buy again and give them a bunch of posititive buzz.
 
If I understand you, the main fuse is only there to cut off the mains after the horse bolted so to speak but stop the barn from burning down.

The sole purpose of an AC line fuse, from the perspective of all safety agencies is to protect people and property. In the event of a catastrophic failure, the fuse opens to protect against shock and fire. It's all contained within international code and regs.

It is still a mystery how the GK can do it all with one fuse.

It's not a mystery at all, in fact it's a no-brainer.

There are all kinds of active protective circuits, things like foldback current limiting, SMPS PWM shutdown upon certain detected faults (DC offset, DC bus overcurrent, SMPS PFC, synchronous rectifier and bridge switch overcurrent, late overtemp sensing), amplifier PWM shutdown upon certain detected faults (DC rail overcurrent, exceeding modulation limits, early overtemp sensing), and there are a host of other supervisory circuits that all work together to prevent failures. BUT, IF a catastrophic fault occurs, the fuse is there to protect persons and property against damage.
 
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