Did I ruin this PJ body?

[Nickweissmusic]

Looks like I over tightened the screws when I was reattaching my neck. I didn't notice until I just pulled the neck off again last night. Seems it actually caved in the wood a bit. It's a Squire body, so I assume part of it is due to cheap wood. Is this now ruined or should it be fine moving forward?

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Nice one! A word to the wise, invest in a good quality electric screwdriver, they turn at a much slower rate than a drill. They still save a ton of time, but you can be much more careful, and once you get close, you can use it as a manual screwdriver too (the gears lock when it's not on). Of course you still need to be careful in critical situations, but it's far more forgiving than a drill. This is the one I've used for at least 5 years, through countless repairs, a few speaker builds, home repairs, etc., still going strong.
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[Ross W. Lovell]

Looks like I over tightened the screws when I was reattaching my neck. I didn't notice until I just pulled the neck off again last night. Seems it actually caved in the wood a bit. It's a Squire body, so I assume part of it is due to cheap wood. Is this now ruined or should it be fine moving forward?

View attachment 1052084

I think we can safely say that while it may be "cheap wood", it still held its threads while allowing the plate to bend.
The plate is bent, but if you straighten it, fill the depressions with plastic filler.

Next time.......tighten by hand, lucky you didn't do a pickguard.

 

[fretno]

at least the screws didn't come out the finger board

 

[Rabidhamster]

I've run across this in much nicer guitars in pawn shops. This is why is hand tools only for the neck plate - yours is a bit worse than most but it happens so easy.

Should be fine as is. You can put a damp rag over the area and hit it with a hot clothes iron to steam the wood back up a bit, carefully so as not to wreck the finish around it-
but Id personally just leave the same neck plate on now that they're so well mated together.

 

[RBrownBass]

it's all I use

Hey, that thing's beautiful- can you show us a shot of the front?

 

[gregmon79]

Yes to power drill and bent plate. Stupid move on my part. You know when you know you're doing something wrong, but like an ass you do it anyway? Yup, that's me.

I did the same thing to a Squier of mine the first time I modded it and removed the neck. You should be fine. But like @SunnBass said, hand tighten screws into the body for ANYTHING moving forward. It's ok to use a power drill but once you get down to the point where any screw is close to flush, stop and proceed by hand.

 

[dan1952]

It's a Squier bass...try to remain calm.

 

[electracoyote]

We must never forget...

But it looked so cool! It took me many years to learn what it was.

 

[Corevalay]

It's a Squier bass...try to remain calm.

I'm pretty calm and it really has nothing to do with the level of bass. I was just curious if it was still OK to use moving forward or if I'd done some significant damage. Thanks for your contribution to the thread!

 

[fretno]

Hey, that thing's beautiful- can you show us a shot of the front?

sure.. this is a Fender swirl body they did a few years ago and you can still find them with Warmoth Snake head , DiMarzio Chopper T and Fast track 1 , it's a massive sounding tele

 

[Sanci]

Hey!

Easy to cover with this one ...

 

[swafran]

It's fine, although your power tool privilege is revoked, and CPS will come to take the Squier away to a host family until you are deemed sober.

 

[Double E]

Think of this as the new norm for your bass.

Yeah! You can tell everyone it's a custom formed neckplate! Seriously, this is probably just fine to do, putting a flat one on would leave gaps behind and not be near as stable as using the bent one that is formed to the indentations in the body.

I think we can safely say that while it may be "cheap wood", it still held its threads while allowing the plate to bend.

If not for the maple neck that the ends of the screws were grabbing it most definitely would've stripped the body out. Especially since the body pilot holes are usually bigger and most appropriately would not be threaded to the neck screws at all, otherwise you would have a hard time drawing the neck tightly to the bottom of the neck pocket.

 

[Big Hoss]

I wouldn't say it's ruined, but you certainly didn't help it out for sure. Obviously you know you used a harmful method. Chances are that Squier body is Basswood, which is awfully soft wood. There are several options for "fixing" this. How much work do you want to do? You could try steaming those dents out, doubt that will be all that effective though. Could use a larger plate that is linked above. That will hide the damage. You could route out and replace the damage, more work than a Squier body is worth if you are paying for it, and I kind of suspect you aren't a woodworker...

If I was looking for a quick and easy fix for damage like that, and it were mine... I would...

#1. Sand the finish off the damaged area.
#2. Fill the damaged area with compatible wood filler. (Elmers, Minwax etc... will work fine.
#3. Sand the repair smooth, and reprime / repaint the damaged area. Fender / Squier tends to use automotive colors, you should be able to find a good color match pretty easily...
#4. Source up and install a good oversized neck plate.
#5. HAND tighten the screws. No NOT use a power driver for working on a musical instrument. They are good for furniture, great for houses, terrible for instruments.

 

[electracoyote]

Also, if anyone is worried about what the plate can do to the body or "over-doing" it, you can try one of these

Neckplate Cushion | Allparts.com

But there is no substitute for the iron fist in a velvet glove with a sensitive touch and years of intuitively learning how much torque is enough torque.

 

[dheafey]

A 'lil bond-o, some super glue, perhaps bailing wire, maybe duct tape, you'll be fine!!!!

 

[RBrownBass]

If I was looking for a quick and easy fix for damage like that, and it were mine... I would...

#1. Sand the finish off the damaged area.
#2. Fill the damaged area with compatible wood filler. (Elmers, Minwax etc... will work fine.
#3. Sand the repair smooth, and reprime / repaint the damaged area. Fender / Squier tends to use automotive colors, you should be able to find a good color match pretty easily...
#4. Source up and install a good oversized neck plate.
#5. HAND tighten the screws. No NOT use a power driver for working on a musical instrument. They are good for furniture, great for houses, terrible for instruments.

The only suggestion/edit I would make is to change the materials in #2 to super glue or epoxy. Build it up slowly, in steps, so it doesn't get into the holes. Then sand flush. I'd see beforehand if some of the paint/sealer in the damaged area would flake off- that'll give whatever filler something to grip onto, as you can't really sand something that's sunken below the plane of a smooth surface. I'd still use the fat plate and the plastic gasket mention a post or so ago.

 

[Herrick]

whoo super man strength , nah it ain't pretty but should still bolt up fine . if it were mine I'd get a big fat Glendale plate and rock it
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What do these bigger neck plates do?

 

[Nev375]

You've just got an early start on your relicing. Do a voodoo blessing over the wound and enjoy your new mojo.

 

[el_Bajo_Verde]

I've seen a few used Squiers and Fenders with the same thing. You're not the only one to do it and you won't be the last! Don't sweat it. The neck pocket is fine, no problem