Different ways to configure a PJ....

[stevensivak]

My clock is ticking interns of telling a builder how to wire up a PASSIVE PJ.

I was told that a switch which moves the "active" pick-up from bridge to neck was not necessary because full volume on one and volume rolled off on the other would accomplish the same task. Then I read about a switch which changes from parallel to series... but I admit, that is above my pay grade....
I had thought that the most rational layout was two stacked knobs (one for volume and one for tone) controlling each pick-up....
Am I missing something?

 

[JKos]

Me, I’d go VBT with the balance being a no-load, cut-trace, 10 kOhm balance pot. No-load means no ground connection on the balance pot. Cut-trace means that at either end, you get 100% of the desired pickup with zero load from the other pickup because it is disconnected. 10 kOhm makes the mix useable across the full range of the balance control.

 

[stevensivak]

So that is a three knob set up? Volume, balance and tone?
What does cut-trace mean?

 

[stevensivak]

I just looked it up- no way can I expect the builder to modify the balance pot...

What about the parallel/series issue?

 

[Killing Floor]

VBT

I’d do a treble bleed if I had a chance but wouldn’t consider it a deal breaker. VBT is simply better and more logical than VVT.

 

[stevensivak]

Treble bleed?

 

[JKos]

no way can I expect the builder to modify the balance pot

Have someone else do it and send it to the builder?

 

[stevensivak]

Ya know someone?

 

[stevensivak]

Searching around I found this on TalkBass:

Posted by Walter...

 

[LowWay]

I did VVT with the switch. The switch is unnecessary technically, but I enjoy it. It lets me figure out how much of the j pickup to dial in and leave it there, and then use the switch to bring it in when going from p-only to both pickups.

All my previous P/J basses were VVT or VBT (I prefer VVT) and you don’t really need more than that.

 

[Yahboy]

Searching around I found this on TalkBass:View attachment 5232842
Posted by Walter...

I use this wiring diagram on my MOD PJ bass with Dimarzio DP126PJ install. But no tone pot.

I din't cut trace on blend pot, i found there are around 10-15% of volume left from another pup when either one solo pup fully turn, but no scoop effect, this mix are nice for me. Better gradual control on voice create.

Since i am more to P guys, the engage from model J become voice shaping knob.

Before instal the MODEL P, i been try 13K , 12K, 10.6K and 8.8K alnico V neck P pup along with Model J. The strong low mid/mid present on Model P work best especially both 100% blend together, less scoop, and the EA has no muddy low and no thin voicing G string.

I dint try parallel /series mode on p pup since i been experience on my buddy mod AM Performer PJ, in parallel the P output clearly weak compare to J pup. Weird sounding once both pup full blend.

 

[Aloe]

you're missing that every additional pot in a passive configuration will load the pickups more, i.e. make them sound darker. a vvt jazz bass other things equal will sound louder and more open than a stack knob one, it's one additional pot. some like it first or second way tho.

the volume-tone-switch thing, traditional for old yamaha bb pj's in the same manner is one pot less than a vvt. that is: it will sound brighter and louder, but gives you less fine control. on the other hand, flicking a switch is quicker than rotating a pot or even two, if you need exactly this.

the second problem with split knobs is that sometimes moving top knob will move the bottom one. or the way around

at the end of the day, my personal preference is VVT on a passive two-pickup bass. yours may be different.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

My clock is ticking interns of telling a builder how to wire up a PASSIVE PJ.

I was told that a switch which moves the "active" pick-up from bridge to neck was not necessary because full volume on one and volume rolled off on the other would accomplish the same task. Then I read about a switch which changes from parallel to series... but I admit, that is above my pay grade....
I had thought that the most rational layout was two stacked knobs (one for volume and one for tone) controlling each pick-up....
Am I missing something?

Volume/blend/tone

Me, I use a switch, a volume, and a tone

 

[2thAche]

Volume, blend, tone is the only setup I'd ever want on a PJ. Makes getting the right sound perfectly straightforward. This is how my #1 is set up, plus a bass/treble stack which I set and never touch. Blend / tone I use alot.

 

[Hiroi Kikuri]

i have stacked tone(top) vol (bottom) pots on my 2001 MIM p bass i rigged into a PJ with a Rick bridge pickup both P and J are barts

 

[SharpCat]

Searching around I found this on TalkBass:View attachment 5232842
Posted by Walter...

Wired my Jazz this way. Works great.

 

[JimmyM]

I did a 4 knob VTVT setup in one of my basses, and I don’t think it has any advantage over a single tone knob. I thought it would so you could have different settings on each pickup, but in real life scenarios, I don’t find it useful.

Same for all that out of phase and series/parallel stuff. Sounds awesome on paper but did nothing except contribute sounds I hated.

 

[logdrum]

I only do blend on an active bass, I like VVT on passive (and even some actives)despite what TB says. For a PJ, I like a switch for pickup selection. I feel it is really a P when you have a switch.

So many tones with a PJ. Specially if it is a hot pickup (like a GZR or any of them overwound things) and you can get a lot of tones below 10 on the dial. Full on 10 is where it is boring.

For me the jazz tone is burpy bridge and tone cut anyway so -- I say it does jazz and P well. I really don't dig series. That's what StingRays are for. There's more nuance with parallel.

 

[DaveParker39]

I like the blend control. So I would go volume-blend-tone for an all passive rig.
If you were doing active, I'd do volume-blend-stacked treble/bass boost cut.

 

[Rib 13]

Same for all that out of phase and series/parallel stuff. Sounds awesome on paper but did nothing except contribute sounds I hated.

Ironically ( for me, at least, because I'm not a P Bass guy), the only bass I really find Series/ Parallel useful on is the mod I did on my 1980 Fender Precision Special. Parallel is kind of useless to me on a passive P, but these Specials are active so I can boost a little bottom into its Parallel mode. Parallel on this bass makes it sound like a P Bass with Stingray-ish sizzle. It's interesting and useful