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Dingwall Owners Club

Hey Dingwallers!

Thanks for the feedback the last couple of days on the fretless query!
As some of you know I’ve got a fretless build underway and have been trying to figure out what best suits my needs and gain info from others experience and other perspectives.
I originally started this thinking I wanted an unlined but then after experiencing an unlined parallel fretless( as previously mentioned) I found it awkward but that was because my fingers wanted to assume the “fan”.

If I was to play a parallel fretless moving forward I would want lines and having never played a dinger fretless I honestly don’t know how that would translate.

I came up with a hybrid type design that would work for my needs as I can see a lot of the fretboard as mentioned in the last couple days. I don’t recall if I had posted it here but since it got rejected by Dingwall I might as well show you guys now.
View attachment 3162764
This a photo of the revised layout which was an attempt to simplify it further.

Basically it’s a set of critical dotted lines so to speak.
Sheldon stated on the Dingwall forum(pre update) that they were going to move AWAY from full lines due to possible issues that can arise with the lines. The good news I guess is that lines are still an offering as an alternative to a blank slate.

Anyways, I’d love to go blank but I feel I’ll be WAY more comfortable with at least some position indication so I guess I’ll be going with the lines.

One last question on this topic for you guys? How important would it be to you guys to have the side dots ON fretline vs standard fretted positioning. I know where I stand on this as well but I am curious to hear the common consensus.

Thanks again fellas
Cool idea Nate.

As for what to do with the side dots, I like having them on the lines for a fretless. However, I think the mini lines shown by Flabzilla with dots in between is the ideal. That way, the dots are like normal, as suggested by BGR, but you have the abbreviated side fret line indicators as well. If you use those as your guide, you can let your muscle memory of playing the fan do the rest. The question would then be, would it make sense for the abbreviated lines to be luminlay like the dots, or if you go wood with the abbreviated lines, then probably want the dots to be wood as well.

The small line in the middle of the fretboard looks like a workable idea. More useful than the line on the lower side of the neck which is (on the bass I showed a couple of pages back) obscured by the G string while playing.



View attachment 3162774
 
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Has anybody here installed the 3x pickup upgrade for the Combustion?

I purchased the single pickup kit today and followed the instructions in which I took the current bridge pickup in my Combustion and moved it to the middle route and then installed the new pickup as the bridge. The issue I am having is that the bridge sounds fine, the middle sounds fine but bridge/middle parallel sounds so out of phase it isn't funny. The instructions state to swap the bridge to the middle as I did to avoid issues however I seem to be getting them anyway.

I have checked and re-checked the instructions and the wiring and cannot figure out what the issue is. Has anybody successfully upgrade a Combustion (not NG2) to the 3 pickup version?

Thanks in advance :D
 
Has anybody here installed the 3x pickup upgrade for the Combustion?

I purchased the single pickup kit today and followed the instructions in which I took the current bridge pickup in my Combustion and moved it to the middle route and then installed the new pickup as the bridge. The issue I am having is that the bridge sounds fine, the middle sounds fine but bridge/middle parallel sounds so out of phase it isn't funny. The instructions state to swap the bridge to the middle as I did to avoid issues however I seem to be getting them anyway.

I have checked and re-checked the instructions and the wiring and cannot figure out what the issue is. Has anybody successfully upgrade a Combustion (not NG2) to the 3 pickup version?

Thanks in advance :D
Was your bass shipped from Dingwall after Dec 31st, 2017? If not, you needed the 3x kit so as to avoid this very issue.
 
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Was your bass shipped from Dingwall after Dec 31st, 2017? If not, you needed the 3x kit so as to avoid this very issue.

Ahh poopie, no it was shipped mid 2017. The guys in the shop didn’t know which kit I needed and just assumed it was the single.

Oh bugger.

Do you know where I can find this info? I looked all over the Dingwall site but couldn’t find anything.
 
Hey Dingwallers!

Thanks for the feedback the last couple of days on the fretless query!
As some of you know I’ve got a fretless build underway and have been trying to figure out what best suits my needs and gain info from others experience and other perspectives.
I originally started this thinking I wanted an unlined but then after experiencing an unlined parallel fretless( as previously mentioned) I found it awkward but that was because my fingers wanted to assume the “fan”.

If I was to play a parallel fretless moving forward I would want lines and having never played a dinger fretless I honestly don’t know how that would translate.

I came up with a hybrid type design that would work for my needs as I can see a lot of the fretboard as mentioned in the last couple days. I don’t recall if I had posted it here but since it got rejected by Dingwall I might as well show you guys now.
View attachment 3162764
This a photo of the revised layout which was an attempt to simplify it further.

Basically it’s a set of critical dotted lines so to speak.
Sheldon stated on the Dingwall forum(pre update) that they were going to move AWAY from full lines due to possible issues that can arise with the lines. The good news I guess is that lines are still an offering as an alternative to a blank slate.

Anyways, I’d love to go blank but I feel I’ll be WAY more comfortable with at least some position indication so I guess I’ll be going with the lines.

One last question on this topic for you guys? How important would it be to you guys to have the side dots ON fretline vs standard fretted positioning. I know where I stand on this as well but I am curious to hear the common consensus.

Thanks again fellas

I'm having 'side lines' at the frets for the one I'm converting. I don't mind side dots in the 'center of the position' rather than at the fretline. Though my previous parallel fretless had position markers at the fret (not all, just the usual dotted frets).

Face and side dots will stay but of course, given the bass will be a de-fret, line inlays are a necessity. I was playing last night (regular fretted Dingwall) and really did verify that I'm playing up on the frets pretty precisely with just muscle memory, even when barring across a few strings. I'd think you're in the same place.
 
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Ahh poopie, no it was shipped mid 2017. The guys in the shop didn’t know which kit I needed and just assumed it was the single.

Oh bugger.

Do you know where I can find this info? I looked all over the Dingwall site but couldn’t find anything.
I don't know. This info was sent to us as a dealer and I would assume all dealers received it. See if your dealer will take it back and get you the full 3x kit.
 
Ahh poopie, no it was shipped mid 2017. The guys in the shop didn’t know which kit I needed and just assumed it was the single.

Oh bugger.

Do you know where I can find this info? I looked all over the Dingwall site but couldn’t find anything.

This is from a ways back so it may or may not be super current/accurate.
D15EE390-57A6-493C-A0EF-DEE2FA42BCD9.jpg
 
I thought the new marking system @Sheldon D. and Co. are using on the fretlesses (fretless'? fretli?) is a partial line visible on the side and top of the fretboard?

My preference on fretless is unmarked board face, small lines at the note locations with dots in the normal spots.

I had a beautiful Armen fretless that I got for so cheap it was almost sad, but I never got on well with playing it because it had these blindingly white fretlines on a wenge fingerboard. They were absurdly distracting and actually caused more confusion than it did any good at all.
 
This is from a ways back so it may or may not be super current/accurate.
View attachment 3163044
There are two important things to know when messing with pickups, and they both have to be correct or bad things happen.
1. Magnetic polarity must be correct
2. Phase of wiring must be correct

1. Pickups need to be magnetically compatible with the ones next to them. For this reason, current pickups are marked "B" and "N", and you can only put a "B" next to an "N". (Although B is Bridge and N is Neck, the letters shoudn't be taken to mean the pickups have to go in those locations. Instead, think of the letters as meaning North and South, and the idea is that you can never have two pickups of the same magnetic polarity right next to each other. Also, when transporting or storing the pickups outside of the bass, they must be stacked correctly, or they will demagetize each other. (Then you will be buying new pickups.) If you stack them, they should be stacked so that they attract, not repel, and they should be rotated a certain away, like this (described when looking at a stack of pickups sitting on the table in front of you):
top in stack: N pickup, low B/E string side to the left
middle in stack: B pickup, low B/E string side to the right
bottom of stack: N pickup, low B/E string side to the left
The factory is very careful to always ship them like this.

If you want to store them side-by-side on the same plane, then just store them NBN as they would be installed, and it will be fine.

2. When you install your 3 pickups (in NBN order), the wiring all has to be in phase or it will sound awful, as @Plastalmonus has unfortunately discovered. See if you can play around with the pickup phase (reversing the white and red wires at the switch) to find the proper combination. Before changing anything, take a photo or make notes of how it was originally configured.
 
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Ahh poopie, no it was shipped mid 2017. The guys in the shop didn’t know which kit I needed and just assumed it was the single.

Oh bugger.

Do you know where I can find this info? I looked all over the Dingwall site but couldn’t find anything.

Yeah, I picked up a P-Tone pickup off the forums here and a D-bird switch. I got to reading about phase and magnetic polarity. I bought a tester and checked all the pickups. The P-Tone pickup had the wrong polarity on the A or D string, I can't remember. They have to be designed to work together.

I decided not to even try it knowing that the polarity was wrong. I have a P-Tone and a D-bird switch that I should list on the sale forum here.

Here is my original post on this matter. You might be having the same problem.
Dingwall Owners Club
 
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Has anybody here installed the 3x pickup upgrade for the Combustion?

I purchased the single pickup kit today and followed the instructions in which I took the current bridge pickup in my Combustion and moved it to the middle route and then installed the new pickup as the bridge. The issue I am having is that the bridge sounds fine, the middle sounds fine but bridge/middle parallel sounds so out of phase it isn't funny. The instructions state to swap the bridge to the middle as I did to avoid issues however I seem to be getting them anyway.

I have checked and re-checked the instructions and the wiring and cannot figure out what the issue is. Has anybody successfully upgrade a Combustion (not NG2) to the 3 pickup version?

Thanks in advance :D

Try reversing the bridge white and red leads at the switch. If this doesn't work, you're going to need some professional help.
 
Hey Dingwallers!

Thanks for the feedback the last couple of days on the fretless query!
As some of you know I’ve got a fretless build underway and have been trying to figure out what best suits my needs and gain info from others experience and other perspectives.
I originally started this thinking I wanted an unlined but then after experiencing an unlined parallel fretless( as previously mentioned) I found it awkward but that was because my fingers wanted to assume the “fan”.

If I was to play a parallel fretless moving forward I would want lines and having never played a dinger fretless I honestly don’t know how that would translate.

I came up with a hybrid type design that would work for my needs as I can see a lot of the fretboard as mentioned in the last couple days. I don’t recall if I had posted it here but since it got rejected by Dingwall I might as well show you guys now.
View attachment 3162764
This a photo of the revised layout which was an attempt to simplify it further.

Basically it’s a set of critical dotted lines so to speak.
Sheldon stated on the Dingwall forum(pre update) that they were going to move AWAY from full lines due to possible issues that can arise with the lines. The good news I guess is that lines are still an offering as an alternative to a blank slate.

Anyways, I’d love to go blank but I feel I’ll be WAY more comfortable with at least some position indication so I guess I’ll be going with the lines.

One last question on this topic for you guys? How important would it be to you guys to have the side dots ON fretline vs standard fretted positioning. I know where I stand on this as well but I am curious to hear the common consensus.

Thanks again fellas

I really dig this design! I would even get it on a fretted Dingwall. Definitely like the triangles at the edge of the fretboard. Super unique, stylish, and very functional!

I like having the side dots ON the fretline when it comes to fretless. Having a fretless with side dots in the normal fretted bass position would be confusing for me.
 
Last edited:
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Hey Dingwallers!

Thanks for the feedback the last couple of days on the fretless query!
As some of you know I’ve got a fretless build underway and have been trying to figure out what best suits my needs and gain info from others experience and other perspectives.
I originally started this thinking I wanted an unlined but then after experiencing an unlined parallel fretless( as previously mentioned) I found it awkward but that was because my fingers wanted to assume the “fan”.

If I was to play a parallel fretless moving forward I would want lines and having never played a dinger fretless I honestly don’t know how that would translate.

I came up with a hybrid type design that would work for my needs as I can see a lot of the fretboard as mentioned in the last couple days. I don’t recall if I had posted it here but since it got rejected by Dingwall I might as well show you guys now.
View attachment 3162764
This a photo of the revised layout which was an attempt to simplify it further.

Basically it’s a set of critical dotted lines so to speak.
Sheldon stated on the Dingwall forum(pre update) that they were going to move AWAY from full lines due to possible issues that can arise with the lines. The good news I guess is that lines are still an offering as an alternative to a blank slate.

Anyways, I’d love to go blank but I feel I’ll be WAY more comfortable with at least some position indication so I guess I’ll be going with the lines.

One last question on this topic for you guys? How important would it be to you guys to have the side dots ON fretline vs standard fretted positioning. I know where I stand on this as well but I am curious to hear the common consensus.

Thanks again fellas
Get an unmarked board from Dingwall and have another tech do these markings?
 
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I really dig this design! I would even get it on a fretted Dingwall. Definitely like the triangles at the edge of the fretboard. Super unique, stylish, and very functional!

I like having the side dots ON the fretline when it comes to fretless. Having a fretless with side dots in the normal fretted bass position would be confusing for me.

Agree, that's how my one blank-plank EB I owned was made (it was a Nordy, I miss that bass). And so that's where I placed my two "cheater" fret markers on my DB. where the 3rd and 5th fret would (normally) be. I don't so much need the cheaters any more, but they helped a lot in the beginning.