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Dingwall Owners Club

Has anybody here installed the 3x pickup upgrade for the Combustion?
I have checked and re-checked the instructions and the wiring and cannot figure out what the issue is. Has anybody successfully upgrade a Combustion (not NG2) to the 3 pickup version?

Thanks in advance :D

I added a P-tone to my mid 2017 Combustion and got a phase issue, I did as Sheldon suggested above (switch the wires round) and it was solved.
 
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Does anybody with Speedo Bar inlays know what the width and length of each one is? Are they all the same size (except for the 12th fret D)?

I am currently entertaining the idea of putting inlays on my older ABII's bare fretboard, but putting them all in the same position as the 1st and 24th fret (compared to the Speedo's) on the treble side of the fretboard. I find that the dots on my Combustion get mostly obscured by the D string, so having bars would eliminate that.
 
Does anybody with Speedo Bar inlays know what the width and length of each one is? Are they all the same size (except for the 12th fret D)?

I am currently entertaining the idea of putting inlays on my older ABII's bare fretboard, but putting them all in the same position as the 1st and 24th fret (compared to the Speedo's) on the treble side of the fretboard. I find that the dots on my Combustion get mostly obscured by the D string, so having bars would eliminate that.
The lines measure 3/4" long and 0.17" across.

Here is an inexpensive way to test drive some design options:
https://www.amazon.com/Inlaysticker...011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Inlaystickers
 
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I added a P-tone to my mid 2017 Combustion and got a phase issue, I did as Sheldon suggested above (switch the wires round) and
Try reversing the bridge white and red leads at the switch. If this doesn't work, you're going to need some professional help.

Ok I was very nearly about to rip everything out and go back to the shop to see if I could swap over for the 3x kit however I decided to try this suggestion first.

It worked!!!

Well I assume it did as I now get 4 distinct tones from the rotary and none of them sound like playing a toy bass at the end of a tin tunnel. They all sound very usable. The 4th setting sounds massive.

Thank you so much for your help, it’s very much appreciated. I will call the store in the morning and let them know about the date requirements as most of the guys there didn’t even know the kit existed.

Until then I’m going to shake some walls :D
 
Ignore the carpet. No use putting nice stuff in when you’re dragging an 8x10 in and out of the room all the time :D

5FBE303A-8766-4A5E-A5F3-6388DDD42C28.jpeg
69EA604E-969C-4CF7-886D-763BB4403CF4.jpeg


I think the Combustion looks great with the 3x. Just have to figure out the best EQ controls for each combo. May still upgrade to the Darkglass Tone Capsule but not sure. The EMG is a fairly nice pre.
 
Ignore the carpet. No use putting nice stuff in when you’re dragging an 8x10 in and out of the room all the time :D

View attachment 3163582 View attachment 3163583

I think the Combustion looks great with the 3x. Just have to figure out the best EQ controls for each combo. May still upgrade to the Darkglass Tone Capsule but not sure. The EMG is a fairly nice pre.
The basses look great!
For the 8x10, these should be available at your local Home Depot:
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-33...911&sr=8-4&keywords=milwaukee+furniture+dolly
 
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I think the Combustion looks great with the 3x. Just have to figure out the best EQ controls for each combo. May still upgrade to the Darkglass Tone Capsule but not sure. The EMG is a fairly nice pre.

Looks great, my top tip is to forget the Tone Capsule and get one of the DG preamp pedals in the relevant flavour (B7k, Vintage Ultra or AO Ultra) if you want that sound. Then you have the best of both worlds without any more wiring headaches ;)
 
The small line in the middle of the fretboard looks like a workable idea. More useful than the line on the lower side of the neck which is (on the bass I showed a couple of pages back) obscured by the G string while playing.



View attachment 3162774

Those are some really small lines. I think the ones I suggested would match the Dingwall spec size for the top markers and would be slightly larger then that. Probably even more noticeable in luminlay.

I actually played my same bass only fretted and payed attention to what would be visible to myself and what wouldn’t be. That’s actually where the idea came from as I was definitely considering if it would be a waste putting lines on the bottom.

My initial drawing which I didn’t present to you guys (pre scribbles)I think was more labour intensive and utilized maple lines vs luminlay contrasts where as this one could be all luminlay as it represents with different shapes.

I think with this design the bottom marks (as not all would be easily visible while playing) would just be there to add symmetry in the appearance from the audience perspective.

Cool idea Nate.

As for what to do with the side dots, I like having them on the lines for a fretless. However, I think the mini lines shown by Flabzilla with dots in between is the ideal. That way, the dots are like normal, as suggested by BGR, but you have the abbreviated side fret line indicators as well. If you use those as your guide, you can let your muscle memory of playing the fan do the rest. The question would then be, would it make sense for the abbreviated lines to be luminlay like the dots, or if you go wood with the abbreviated lines, then probably want the dots to be wood as well.
I think I know what your saying and I’m not sure the best answer on this. I think either way would be easily workable.



Get an unmarked board from Dingwall and have another tech do these markings?

Ding Ding Ding!
This right here may be the best answer yet!! Thank you Ray

I felt like a face palm was in order for a “why didn’t I think of that” moment.

I guess perhaps as I don’t even like the thought of anyone but the Dingwall shop touching them for tech work as I don’t have a Mo in the neighbourhood.

I’ll have to check and see if I missed this opportunity.
 
Ding Ding Ding!
This right here may be the best answer yet!! Thank you Ray

I felt like a face palm was in order for a “why didn’t I think of that” moment.

I guess perhaps as I don’t even like the thought of anyone but the Dingwall shop touching them for tech work as I don’t have a Mo in the neighbourhood.

I’ll have to check and see if I missed this opportunity.
Yeah, you'll be pulling the neck and shipping it off, but I think it'll be worth it. I really like the idea you have on the top side :)
 
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I think I know what your saying and I’m not sure the best answer on this. I think either way would be easily workable.
Just to be clear, I didn't mean my comment about the mini lines and dots with respect to your design. I meant that Flabzilla showed an example of min-lines, which I like, and one could then have dots as well, which are centered in the fret (and therefore between the mini-lines) so you know where you are.

I did like your design though, but the above was an alternative that they might do at the shop.
 
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Just to be clear, I didn't mean my comment about the mini lines and dots with respect to your design. I meant that Flabzilla showed an example of min-lines, which I like, and one could then have dots as well, which are centered in the fret (and therefore between the mini-lines) so you know where you are.

I did like your design though, but the above was an alternative that they might do at the shop.


Kinda like these dots? But only put on the lines.
883F3F26-31FC-4D1C-A3E0-C6A96BCFC408.jpeg
 
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Kinda like these dots? But only put on the lines.
View attachment 3164036
I meant those size but as side dots on the top of the neck, in between mini-fret lines such as those on the bass Flabzilla posted. But you know, I do like those mini dots on at the bottom of the fretboard as well!

I wonder if you could do mini side lines like the bass Flabzilla posted, but a set on top of the neck and one on the bottom, so the top ones extend slightly down onto the fret board from the top, and then have ones on the bottom that extend slightly upward on the fretboard from the bottom. Then you would have cues at both extremes.

Anyway, I'm just throwing stuff out there that the shop might be willing to do. Love the color of that bass BTW, thanks for posting that!
 
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After going back to look at the bass Flabzzilla posted, those little mini lines are on the bottom of the neck and board. I once had a fretless bass where they were on top. I would think that having those at the top AND bottom would work great. That would be somewhat like you were proposing, accept not diamond shaped. Maybe the shop would go for the mini lines on top and bottom as a solution to not having lines across the fretboard.
 
I meant those size but as side dots on the top of the neck, in between mini-fret lines such as those on the bass Flabzilla posted. But you know, I do like those mini dots on at the bottom of the fretboard as well!

I wonder if you could do mini side lines like the bass Flabzilla posted, but a set on top of the neck and one on the bottom, so the top ones extend slightly down onto the fret board from the top, and then have ones on the bottom that extend slightly upward on the fretboard from the bottom. Then you would have cues at both extremes.

Anyway, I'm just throwing stuff out there that the shop might be willing to do. Love the color of that bass BTW, thanks for posting that!

My original drawing was something like that with the key markers embellished on a bit....

I think


I’ll see if I can find it.
 
My original drawing was something like that with the key markers embellished on a bit....

I think


I’ll see if I can find it.

Yup, I just realized now how similar your idea is to that. Our posts crossed!
After going back to look at the bass Flabzzilla posted, those little mini lines are on the bottom of the neck and board. I once had a fretless bass where they were on top. I would think that having those at the top AND bottom would work great. That would be somewhat like you were proposing, accept not diamond shaped. Maybe the shop would go for the mini lines on top and bottom as a solution to not having lines across the fretboard.