How old is that AB-1? Because I haven't seen a Canadian Dingwall anywhere near that cheap in, uh, ever.![]()
My first custom AB-1 set me back $1300 in 2007.
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How old is that AB-1? Because I haven't seen a Canadian Dingwall anywhere near that cheap in, uh, ever.![]()
I vaguely remember the original Combustions not having holes and the pickguard either being friction fit or maybe just optional. Was that a thing or have I imagined it?
I vaguely remember the original Combustions not having holes and the pickguard either being friction fit or maybe just optional. Was that a thing or have I imagined it?
Yeah, mine was $US1700 second hand in 2007 (but was 6 string and flame top). Inflation and exchange rate is a killer for me now (looking to get another).My first custom AB-1 set me back $1300 in 2007.Enjoyed playing it for five years and sold it for a bit more than that...
Yeah, mine was $US1700 second hand in 2007 (but was 6 string and flame top). Inflation and exchange rate is a killer for me now (looking to get another).
I asked the dealer who ordered it if there was a pickguard delete option and the answer was no. :-(I don't think they were ever friction fit, but I do think that some didn't come drilled. But yeah, with no visible rout under that thing...no need beyond if you like the aesthetics
I asked the dealer who ordered it if there was a pickguard delete option and the answer was no. :-(
I wonder if that's my AB... I bought it used here on TB in 2015. It had a Darkglass Tone Capsule..
Did this bass have the Blue Qube inside?
I might have had this one at one point (2012ish). If not, vary closely related.
I wonder if that's my AB... I bought it used here on TB in 2015. It had a Darkglass Tone Capsule..
EDIT - I looked closely at the flame pattern and it is not the same bass.
View attachment 3302701
Hi guys, a new happy ABII owner hereTotally amazed with a bass and photos will follow, but I just wanted to ask if you guys can help figure out one thing that puzzles me. I think it has nothing to do with bass itself, but with the strings. The tapered B (and tapered E to much smaller extent) is having strange rattling sound when played a bit more aggressively. After analyzing all the things, I am convinced it is the taper itself that causes it. Is very noticeable with Dingwall strings, less prominent with Kalium, and actually not heard at all with original strings I received the bass (very dark "dead" Kalium's I think). This rattling almost disappears but still heard when playing string fretted, but most heard on open string. It is not the nut profile or break angle for sure. I also had identical experience long time ago with Fender strings on another bass. First set rattled, but the next one did not (the set was identical, bought a second set to confirm that the problem was in faulty bad quality taper).
What could be the solution? Only non-tapered strings? Would the bridge adjustment length be enough? Is there recomendation on which non-taper strings to use? I was thinking to try Ernie Balls. Or maybe you can advise something with Dingwall strings? Otherwise I really love the sound and would regret to avoid using Dingwall strings.
Or is it better to open a new thread for this question? thanks in advance)
positively sure. The rattling can be heard much less but still audible when fretted on 1st or 2nd fret (sometimes even higher). The problem that it sort of "eats" the nice fundamental tone, so even when plugged the rattling is not heard, the sound of string itself is affected negatively.Are you 100% sure it’s not the nut slot size, my super j has this exact issue as I have a .70 A string in a nut cut for .80 or .85
positively sure. The rattling can be heard much less but still audible when fretted on 1st or 2nd fret (sometimes even higher). The problem that it sort of "eats" the nice fundamental tone, so even when plugged the rattling is not heard, the sound of string itself is affected negatively.
Hi guys, a new happy ABII owner hereTotally amazed with a bass and photos will follow, but I just wanted to ask if you guys can help figure out one thing that puzzles me. I think it has nothing to do with bass itself, but with the strings. The tapered B (and tapered E to much smaller extent) is having strange rattling sound when played a bit more aggressively. After analyzing all the things, I am convinced it is the taper itself that causes it. Is very noticeable with Dingwall strings, less prominent with Kalium, and actually not heard at all with original strings I received the bass (very dark "dead" Kalium's I think). This rattling almost disappears but still heard when playing string fretted, but most heard on open string. It is not the nut profile or break angle for sure. I also had identical experience long time ago with Fender strings on another bass. First set rattled, but the next one did not (the set was identical, bought a second set to confirm that the problem was in faulty bad quality taper).
What could be the solution? Only non-tapered strings? Would the bridge adjustment length be enough? Is there recomendation on which non-taper strings to use? I was thinking to try Ernie Balls. Or maybe you can advise something with Dingwall strings? Otherwise I really love the sound and would regret to avoid using Dingwall strings.
Or is it better to open a new thread for this question? thanks in advance)
@NaH - Those are a couple of beauties. Yes my newly acquired AB II 6 string is a HS - solid bubinga body, with a wenge neck and pau ferro fingerboard. The is a weight penalty for all that exotic wood though - it weighs 10 lbs - still not bad considering it is a 6 string.
Well then you’re into making sure you have enough windings on the post, making sure the string is not twisted etc.
Use the YouTube Dingwall setup guide and go through those steps.
Are the strings different gages?
All things being equal just having a taper shouldn’t cause a rattle so there must be something else going on.