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Dingwall Owners Club

Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?
 
Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?

A 'truss rod virgin'?! ;) ;) ;) Kidding aside, just limit your adjustments to a quarter-turn in 24 hours and you and your bass are safe. The possible need for a torque wrench for re-attachment never occurred to me. No answer for that... :rollno:
 
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Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?
If you take the neck off and it's only going to be off for a few days, just don't bother touching the truss rod, it will be fine. Then everything should just go right back to where it was when you reassemble.
If the neck is going to be off for a very extended time period (like weeks), take the tension out of the truss rod by turning it CCW, but count exactly the number of turns you give it. Then make that exact same number of turns CW when reassembling and you should theoretically be back where you were before.
Definitely no torque wrench is needed for the truss rod. The way you set the tension correctly on the truss rod is by measuring the relief when the bass is tuned to pitch.
As for the neck bolts, I don't know if a torque wrench is needed. That is a question for Dingwall tech support. Seems to me like it might not be a bad idea, but it also might not be mandatory. I don't know, so ask them.

Did you receive a tool kit with your Z2? If so, it should contain the correct size truss rod wrench, which normally has a piece of yellow heat shrink tubing on it. If you didn't get the tool kit with the bass, let me know and I'll mail you one.
 
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Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?

Dingwall uses bolts so it really couldn't be any easier to remove and replace the neck. You would have to try to do it wrong. The only advice you need is "righty tighty, lefty loosey." You likely wouldn't need to adjust the truss although it would also depend on how far you travel. Even if you left the neck on, there is a chance it will need some tweaks in the new environment anyway. I would highly recommend learning into doing your own setups. Even the most stable basses need adjustments once in a while to keep in their best playing shape.

A 'truss rod virgin'?! ;) ;) ;) Kidding aside, just limit your adjustments to a quarter-turn in 24 hours and you and your bass are safe. The possible need for a torque wrench for re-attachment never occurred to me. No answer for that... :rollno:

Contrary to myth, truss rods are not made of glass. You can turn them quite a bit in one day without any cause of issue. I would check it the day after you tweak it though to see how the wood settled.
 
Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?

Easy peasy.
1.Remove your strings.
2.Flip bass over.
3.Remove 4 bolts.
Done.

Reassembly is reverse of steps above.
I do not know that a torque wrench is required. I reassembled on feel alone as I would think it’s more important to use caution to not over torque vs torque to a spec that may possibly not be 100% consistent instrument to instrument.

The most important thing would be to not over torque. The bolts will come to a solid stopping point very abruptly.

Tighten the bolts in a pattern like a tire not tightening one bolt all the way until all bolts are consistently snug.
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Just out of curiosity, how much of the cost of an ng2/ng3 is due to licensing? Artist signature model, colors using exclusive name brand car companies, someone else's patented fret system. Send like it has to add up.

I don't think licensing is a big thing. Novax is like 75 dollars or 55 in bulk. I don't think the colours would be a big thing. I suspect the much greater part of the cost delta with a combustion would be the fancy preamp. The biggest cost of those basses over a typical chinese made bass is that they're being fully set up in the canadian workshop.

B>
 
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Just out of curiosity, how much of the cost of an ng2/ng3 is due to licensing? Artist signature model, colors using exclusive name brand car companies, someone else's patented fret system. Send like it has to add up.

Well the combustion itself has been a model for 10years now? The nolly for 5?ish. That said it appears the main cost difference between the 2 bass I think is primarily the cost of the Darkglass pre amp.

Curious why you ask?
 
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I don't think licensing is a big thing. Novax is like 75 dollars or 55 in bulk. I don't think the colours would be a big thing. I suspect the much greater part of the cost delta with a combustion would be the fancy preamp. The biggest cost of those basses over a typical chinese made bass is that they're being fully set up in the canadian workshop.

B>

IIRC all combustion models including the nolly go home for a set up before heading out to their new homes.
 
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Removing and re-attaching Z neck?

The last time I flew I put the bass in a Gator Flightcase and checked it. All was well but I hate the idea of checking the bass.

I've read that removing the neck allows you to take the bass as carry-on. I'd love this, it's never out of my sight and it's $200 cheaper (not paying oversize fees).

I'm pretty skilled with tools, I've built decks and sheds and worked on cars, but I've never even turned a truss rod on a bass.

Do you think I could pull that off? Anything to be careful of? Is the truss rod system obvious? Will I need a torque wrench?
Call the airline and book an extra seat for the bass as cabing baggage.