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Dingwall Owners Club

#38,821
LawDog said:
A big D? I am in the wrong place :(
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hiyooooo.jpg
 
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#38,824
SemiDriven said:
So my output jack is going wonky on my ABZ5. :meh:

It has an 1\8" of play in it. When my sound cuts in and out, I have to pull the cord out away from the bass to get sound again.

How would you proceed?
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I've had that happen with the locking jacks. When it wasn't too bad I could run my cord through the strap and it would keep the connector tight against the jack and it was fine for use. After doing that for a while, I just bought a few extra Neutrik locking jacks and replaced it. There's only a 2 or 3 connections (depending on passive or active) and with basic soldering skills the installation takes about 5 minutes. If you don't have basic skills, it should take a shop about 15 minutes of bench time to do it for you.
 
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#38,826
SemiDriven said:
I haven't soldered in years. Gotta see if I still have my soldering equipment.

I'm looking for the passive Neutrik locking jack. Cant' tell from Neutrik's site which one is which (they all seem to be 3 connections). Where did you order yours from?
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I think I just got mine on Amazon. I think the 3 connector ones will work fine though. Just use the tip/sleeve and don't use anything on the ring.
 
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#38,827
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#38,829
I’d really like to see them get away from using the Neutrik locking. At least you can bend the tines on a standard jack for more tightness. The locking jack, much like panel jacks, are not at all adjustable and more costly when they need replacing. I don’t know a single player that doesn’t loop their cable through their strap first, anyway.
 
#38,831
J Posega said:
I’d really like to see them get away from using the Neutrik locking. At least you can bend the tines on a standard jack for more tightness. The locking jack, much like panel jacks, are not at all adjustable and more costly when they need replacing. I don’t know a single player that doesn’t loop their cable through their strap first, anyway.
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Lol, and I’d like to see the locking jacks on the standard models :whistle:
 
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#38,832
Hi Everybody,

Exciting day today. Thanks to the good people at The Bass Shop here in Seattle and inspiration from ABNate and Selta, I ordered a custom Dingwall. Here are the specs.

AB1 5 string
Flamed Maple Top
Green to Purple Burst Finish
Maple Neck and Fingerboard
Purple Speedo Inlays
3x Pickups
Glockenklang 3 band preamp
3x Series/Parallel switches

Now begins the wait. In a way, I look at it like buying nice wine. You buy a bottle with the knowledge that you are going to cellar it for a few years. In the mean time, you have other bottles that you have already cellared and they are ready to drink now. I have some very nice basses right now, including a NG-3, that will keep me perfectly happy until this one is good to go.

Bones
 
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#38,834
I recently ended up getting two sets of Payson’s Drop strings for my BEAD-Bird. I was looking for a fanned fret specific set to replace the DR set I had. I’d had bad luck with tapered B strings in the past, so I was a tad hesitant, but figured I’d give these a shot. I ended up with a Drop C set in Stainless and a set with a step up in gauges to get closer to the DR size I had been using.

Payson was super responsive and helpful. The price isn’t bad at $35 a set. They shipped fast, so that part of the deal was pretty much perfect.

I really wanted to stay with a stainless set, but Payson didn’t have the bigger size in SS, which gave me a chance to try the nickel. I popped the SS on first. I needed to give the truss rod and saddles some tweaks. I got close enough for jazz, but there’s still a bit much buzz, so I need a full setup. I liked the sound (really nice for down-tuned doom sounds). The tension was much lighter than I expected but was quite nice.

After a few days, I popped the nickel set on. They weren’t as nickel-y as I was expecting, and the finger noise was less noticeable than the SS. I found I had already gotten used to the lighter tension set, so these already felt a tad stiff. I think I should’ve just gone with a nickel set of the Drop C, just like they come from the shop (but I appreciate Payson’s help accommodating my special request).

I played an online gig tonight, using the BEAD-Bird and the nickel set. The gig was an “ambient” performance so the sound is super buried in effects, and it’s not a good representation of the strings. I will say that the silent Dingwall pickups are much appreciated when I start running my bass into layers of delay and reverb. Every little noise/hum gets picked up and starts bouncing around in the reverb reflections, so the lack of noise from the pickups makes that less of a concern than using something like a J pickup or my Ric.
 
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#38,836
Blues Cat said:
@monsterthompson, I think getting the action a little lower on the NS set, and more importantly the neck close to straight, will give you a lighter feel enhancing your economy of motion.
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Yeah. As we discussed, I like both sets, but it’s hard to give them a truly fair comparison without having the bass properly set up for each. I’ve been too busy/lazy to do that as well as I should :) Both sets are certainly a better match for the bass than the DR set I was using. I think the nickel set in the lighter gauge is probably the way to go (the way you usually sell them). I’ll find out when I’m ready for my next restring.
 
#38,838
I was wondering if this bothers some others or not regarding their Dingwalls or if it's just specific to mine.

First off, my Z3 is hands down my favorite instrument and will likely be my #1 forever unless something strange happens - so not a B fest. But it could be better, or maybe mine has an issue.
When toggles are in series mode with the Bridge/Middle in series the string clarity gets duller as you go from top to bottom, and especially the D and G strings sound darker or muted as compared to any of the other settings (I have N, M, N/B parallel, B/M parallel and they all have equal clarity across strings. Not quieter, just a lot darker and it's progressive down the strings.

I guess I should mention that the same thing happens in series mode with the Droc setting (B/M plus N parallel). For both of these instances when I take the toggle switches and go from series to parallel with the pickups the effect goes away and the balance is equal again.

Any thoughts? Anyone else have this? The only other thing could be that I had Mo wire my 6 way switch for me and maybe something isn't quite right with it.
 
#38,839
Ryno1330 said:
I was wondering if this bothers some others or not regarding their Dingwalls or if it's just specific to mine.

First off, my Z3 is hands down my favorite instrument and will likely be my #1 forever unless something strange happens - so not a B fest. But it could be better, or maybe mine has an issue.
When toggles are in series mode with the Bridge/Middle in series the string clarity gets duller as you go from top to bottom, and especially the D and G strings sound darker or muted as compared to any of the other settings (I have N, M, N/B parallel, B/M parallel and they all have equal clarity across strings. Not quieter, just a lot darker and it's progressive down the strings.

I guess I should mention that the same thing happens in series mode with the Droc setting (B/M plus N parallel). For both of these instances when I take the toggle switches and go from series to parallel with the pickups the effect goes away and the balance is equal again.

Any thoughts? Anyone else have this? The only other thing could be that I had Mo wire my 6 way switch for me and maybe something isn't quite right with it.
Click to expand...

Whenever I put my pickups in series (OMG!) mode, the mid-range is huge and the highs are less present. I think you are describing a normal phenomenon.
 

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