To me that would be the deciding factor - is bridge in parallel really key for a nice bridge/neck parallel scooped tone.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
So strings... I'm sure this will open a totally non-controversial topic, right?
I went back a few dozen pages, ok, likely more, but I'll admit right here that I didn't read all TWO THOUSAND PLUS pages of this thread... so if this was discussed at depth, my search foo failed me.
When buying strings for a Dingwall (full scale, 20 y/o Z1), does it make sense to look for special multiscale sets? Or should one "only buy Dingwall strings!"? Or can I just buy a StringJoy extra long set (37" scale) and be happy (because I really like the folks at StringJoy - and their strings are made here in the US)...
I went back a few dozen pages, ok, likely more, but I'll admit right here that I didn't read all TWO THOUSAND PLUS pages of this thread... so if this was discussed at depth, my search foo failed me.
When buying strings for a Dingwall (full scale, 20 y/o Z1), does it make sense to look for special multiscale sets? Or should one "only buy Dingwall strings!"? Or can I just buy a StringJoy extra long set (37" scale) and be happy (because I really like the folks at StringJoy - and their strings are made here in the US)...
Today is new bass day:
I think my ghost logo on the headstock is a first
I think my ghost logo on the headstock is a first
Beautiful man. Ooooo wenge! Love da wenge.Today is new bass day:
I think my ghost logo on the headstock is a first
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those are my favourite ghost inlays I’ve seen yet. I’m not big on the ghost stuff but these fit. They look great!
You will need sets designed for multi scale, where the B is for 37” and G is for 34”... maybe stringjiy can make a hybrid set for you, but then you will have to watch for tapered ends on the low strings or you may need but adjustments... Dingwall, Payson, make nice sets (or rather have known manufacturers make them- can’t remember which but the usual suspects will chime in). Fret nation can also make special multi scale-friendly sets for you and has good advice to fit your needs.
Good luck.
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,127
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
That is one good-looking bass! Congratulations!Today is new bass day:
I think my ghost logo on the headstock is a first
View attachment 4161092 View attachment 4161093 View attachment 4161094 View attachment 4161095
you can’t go wrong with dingwall strings. There are a few other offerings out there but bare in mind you should get strings designed for multi scale.
you may end up with noticeable uneven tension if you dress it up with the wrong strings.
Payson has fantastic offerings
Jason at fretnation can help you out with set that will work as well.
personally, I’m using Paysons for my long scales.
Don’t shy away from the dingwalls strings though as they are great strings generally speaking.
I really like the dingwall strings on my d-roc standard, which is in E-standard atm. I'm still trying to figure out what strings to use for my D standard/Drop C ABZ 4 though. I had tried some Payson nickle steels, but they went dead within a week (zero brightness, sounded like 6 month old strings). I'm guessing this was an installation error on my part though and not typical of the strings, since it sounds like they get really high praise around here? I've been browsing around and it seems like Payson is the only company that has long scale strings that can do 50/70/90/110 (I'm avoiding Kalium, due to their recent horrid customer service/ship times). I'm willing to get some more Paysons to test further, but I just wanted to confirm that them going dead so quickly is an anomaly.
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,127
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
Have you plugged it in yet?Today is new bass day:
I think my ghost logo on the headstock is a first
View attachment 4161092 View attachment 4161093 View attachment 4161094 View attachment 4161095
Have you plugged it in yet?
No, I'm at work still so can't plug it in for a few hours. Sounds great unplugged though
The ghost speedo inlays really piqued my interest but I didn't want a solid headstock inlay as it would throw off the match IMO. They agreed to do the ghost headstock one too and I'm super happy about how it turned out.
I added the BWB guard to continue the white outline thing. I'm half thinking about a pinstripe mod to the knobs to take that white highlight thing one step further, maybe that's one step too far?
you should talk to Payson about it. sounds abnormal.
Quick dying is not a term most would associate with his strings. Especially the nickels. SS strings never get the same life but that’s expected.
yeah man. It’s very nicely spec’d. Ties together very well!
would you do like some dcline design knobs or something?
Thanks for the responses - so much to learn for a new owner.
So both of these (heavily shortened) responses seem to tell me that (a) I definitely need a multiscale set, not just a 37" set and (b) that the issue is that the tapered ends may not be in the right place and/or that I'll get uneven tension.
May I poke at that a little?
I understand the issue that the 'tapered' ends of the shorter strings (especially D and G) would be "too far" from the nut to help. But as I stare at the strings on my Dingwall, D and G appear un-tapered. A has a single "step", and E and B have more. And the distance from bridge anchor to winding peg of those three strings is actually fairly similar (as the tuning peg for E and even more so A are further from the nut than B). Which means even with the Dingwall strings installed, the distance of the taper from the nut AND from the peg is inconsistent.
And when we talk about tension as @AB Nate mentions... I foolishly assumed that the raw length of the string that I install (so not the distance, bridge to nut, but the length of the metal string) should not influence the tension. It should be the material used and the thickness that impacts the tension needed to have the string in tune. So where am I wrong if I think that by matching the thicknesses of the strings that are installed on the bass right now I would once again get even tension, even with five 37" strings?
I'm a software engineer by training and I try to understand what causes have what effects. With that in mind, can someone try to go a bit more into the "why does this matter" logic?
Again - I'm not doubting the wisdom of the experts here... I'm trying to gain some more understanding
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Thanks for the responses - so much to learn for a new owner.
So both of these (heavily shortened) responses seem to tell me that (a) I definitely need a multiscale set, not just a 37" set and (b) that the issue is that the tapered ends may not be in the right place and/or that I'll get uneven tension.
May I poke at that a little?
I understand the issue that the 'tapered' ends of the shorter strings (especially D and G) would be "too far" from the nut to help. But as I stare at the strings on my Dingwall, D and G appear un-tapered. A has a single "step", and E and B have more. And the distance from bridge anchor to winding peg of those three strings is actually fairly similar (as the tuning peg for E and even more so A are further from the nut than B). Which means even with the Dingwall strings installed, the distance of the taper from the nut AND from the peg is inconsistent.
And when we talk about tension as @AB Nate mentions... I foolishly assumed that the raw length of the string that I install (so not the distance, bridge to nut, but the length of the metal string) should not influence the tension. It should be the material used and the thickness that impacts the tension needed to have the string in tune. So where am I wrong if I think that by matching the thicknesses of the strings that are installed on the bass right now I would once again get even tension, even with five 37" strings?
I'm a software engineer by training and I try to understand what causes have what effects. With that in mind, can someone try to go a bit more into the "why does this matter" logic?
Again - I'm not doubting the wisdom of the experts here... I'm trying to gain some more understanding
Here is a tool that can be helpful.
String Tension Calculator
I don’t really play with custom tunings and don’t have need for a lot of extensive thought into custom sets when it’s been mapped out by the pros but it is still a helpful tool.
I can’t help but wonder if the core material/diameter plays more of a factor in tension vs the gauge of the string.
I'm thinking that I poorly crimped the two low strings, and the D and G (E/ A for standard tuning) went dead within 5 days, but the C and F (D/G for standard) were still bright and vibrant sounding even after a couple weeks.
I bet that more goes into it, for sure. But using the tool there and the thicknesses of my Dingwall strings, as measured with digital calipers (not all values appear available in the tool, so these are ever so slightly off):
So clearly based on this my tension is already uneven. Now if only I could actually MEASURE the tension to see how that compares to the tool
But of course, this tool doesn't appear to care whether I use a 37" long and 0.048" (measured) thick string on my 34" scale bottom string, or if that's a multiscale set where the G string is shorter...
they should last you at least a few months depending on your factors I’d think.
how many wraps around the tuning pegs did you have? Perhaps it was the crimp or string twist?
It was 3-4 wraps per peg. I think the issue was the crimp and the part that went into the tuning post (my fault, not a factory flaw). I don't think I made the part that went in long enough, and both strings slipped out a few times and got bent weird while getting put in, so I'm guessing thats where the problem was.
