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Dingwall Owners Club

Quick question, as I wait through the next few months until May: I absolutely LOVE the balance on my D-Roc, and while noodling around in my ESP 6-string earlier (and the somewhat divey neck), I started wondering what the balance on my NG-3 6-string will be like. I have no doubt it will be good, that’s the sort of thing those smart guys in Canada seem to pay attention to, but still wanted to get some feedback from current Dingwall 6-string owners.

And I’m also trying to distract myself from the wait.
 
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I bet that more goes into it, for sure. But using the tool there and the thicknesses of my Dingwall strings, as measured with digital calipers (not all values appear available in the tool, so these are ever so slightly off):
View attachment 4161332
So clearly based on this my tension is already uneven. Now if only I could actually MEASURE the tension to see how that compares to the tool :)
But of course, this tool doesn't appear to care whether I use a 37" long and 0.048" (measured) thick string on my 34" scale bottom string, or if that's a multiscale set where the G string is shorter...

Unfortunately you cannot enter these parameters I to the calculator for a more accurate calculation

8FC6882E-2E7F-4448-866D-737E29E5E9A4.jpeg
 
Quick question, as I wait through the next few months until May: I absolutely LOVE the balance on my D-Roc, and while noodling around in my ESP 6-string earlier (and the somewhat divey neck), I started wondering what the balance on my NG-3 6-string will be like. I have no doubt it will be good, that’s the sort of thing those smart guys in Canada seem to pay attention to, but still wanted to get some feedback from current Dingwall 6-string owners.

And I’m also trying to distract myself from the wait.


It’s pretty rare to get a dingwall with neck dive. I think especially on the 6 string models. Added hardware and usually electronics ensure weight is dispersed in all the right ways.

I think I’ve only ever heard of it on a lightweight super.
 
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It was 3-4 wraps per peg. I think the issue was the crimp and the part that went into the tuning post (my fault, not a factory flaw). I don't think I made the part that went in long enough, and both strings slipped out a few times and got bent weird while getting put in, so I'm guessing thats where the problem was.

By crimp, do you mean using pliers to bend it ninety degrees before clipping? Sheldon recommends one to one and a half wraps around the post...
 
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Yes, thats what I'm referring to. Is the wrap count that low really whats recommended? I figured more wraps = less chance of slippage.
The reasoning makes sense but it’s actually counter productive IMO.


The more wraps you have, the more flex you can have in the string.
Think of it like a spring or a coil which neither is wanted in our set up. If you go with what’s recommended in the set up videos you’ll find yourself adjusting your tuning less and solving a few other problems.
Another thing is if you have the ball end locked into the bridge while tightening these extra wraps you can introduce added and unwanted string twist. That twist can mess your strings up in a bad way. Not to mention modify your tension if it’s done to an extreme degree.
It’s one reason I don’t like string through bodies.
Another factor is your tuning system is less accurate and required more compensating adjustments as it’s having to adjust through the coil(extra wraps) versus a string that only has one wrap.
 
I really like the dingwall strings on my d-roc standard, which is in E-standard atm. I'm still trying to figure out what strings to use for my D standard/Drop C ABZ 4 though. I had tried some Payson nickle steels, but they went dead within a week (zero brightness, sounded like 6 month old strings). I'm guessing this was an installation error on my part though and not typical of the strings, since it sounds like they get really high praise around here? I've been browsing around and it seems like Payson is the only company that has long scale strings that can do 50/70/90/110 (I'm avoiding Kalium, due to their recent horrid customer service/ship times). I'm willing to get some more Paysons to test further, but I just wanted to confirm that them going dead so quickly is an anomaly.

Not typically what we hear. The strings may have a twist introduced during installation. One way to check, pull the wraps off the tuner post. If the coil points anywhere but straight down, you may have a twist. Also check the ball end crimp is oriented correctly too.

You may want to go slightly lighter by .005. Maybe .105 .085 .065 .045 Payson HS-L’s.
We can certainly put both sets together you’re looking for. Your fingers and ears should be able to tell pretty quickly which works for you.
 
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So strings... I'm sure this will open a totally non-controversial topic, right?
I went back a few dozen pages, ok, likely more, but I'll admit right here that I didn't read all TWO THOUSAND PLUS pages of this thread... so if this was discussed at depth, my search foo failed me.

When buying strings for a Dingwall (full scale, 20 y/o Z1), does it make sense to look for special multiscale sets? Or should one "only buy Dingwall strings!"? Or can I just buy a StringJoy extra long set (37" scale) and be happy (because I really like the folks at StringJoy - and their strings are made here in the US)...

Always get a set designed for fanned multiscale basses. It makes a big difference in fit and string to string tone and balance.
 
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never ever have had a string issue with set ups like these but I remember being Leary the first I explored this.
View attachment 4161382 View attachment 4161383 View attachment 4161384
Okay, you sold me!
Starting out as a teenager, I thought if you didn't use ALL the string you weren't getting your money's worth....
I quickly got over that because the darn thing wouldn't stay in tune for some reason, and a headstock tuner consisted of a rubber band and a tuning fork:roflmao:

I am going to try that at my next string change!
 
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