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Dingwall Owners Club

#5,281
Can someone direct me the member post regarding the sticky neck and how it was treated ? I have looked everywhere and was unable to locate.

I have been wearing out the SJ5 and now feeling friction at thumb contact point between 3 and 7 frets. I keep my hands clean and wipe it down regularly with a freshly clean cloth. Martin polish every once in a while and that's it.

I am very uncomfortable attempting to take a scotchbrite pad to the neck as the neck was originally finished in a manner that left it slicker than snot on a door knob.

Pic for reference as it is only sticky on the center of the neck. Yes, this is clearly not a Dingwall. Picture reference for where my thumb makes contact with the neck most of the time.

Thanks in advance for post ref, or any ideas on how to resolve this.

melee.jpg
 
#5,282
Zoomie said:
Can someone direct me the member post regarding the sticky neck and how it was treated ? I have looked everywhere and was unable to locate.

I have been wearing out the SJ5 and now feeling friction at thumb contact point between 3 and 7 frets. I keep my hands clean and wipe it down regularly with a freshly clean cloth. Martin polish every once in a while and that's it.

I am very uncomfortable attempting to take a scotchbrite pad to the neck as the neck was originally finished in a manner that left it slicker than snot on a door knob.

Pic for reference as it is only sticky on the center of the neck. Yes, this is clearly not a Dingwall. Picture reference for where my thumb makes contact with the neck most of the time.

Thanks in advance for post ref, or any ideas on how to resolve this.

melee.jpg
Click to expand...


WOWOWO Calm down, no scotchbrite stuff just listen to how it is done here below, bro

Go to your hardware store and get the following:

1) steel wool grade "0000"
2) Murphy's oil soap
3) Birchwood Casey TRU OIL
326934.jpg


4) Birchwood Casey Wax
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#5,285
Now here is what you do.

You also need some masking tape here pal, the steel wool shavings will stick to your magnetic pickups like poop on a blanket otherwise, so get a newspaper and wrap the body and seal it with masking tape, you don'twant that s**t nowhere near the body, ideally I take the neck off when I do this.

cut a 3" square of steel wool, and start working the back of neck in single strokes up and down, until you have a sore arm. don't stop halfway through the neck just go from the back of the nut to the heel stopping just before the part of the heel that sits in the pocket. do this about a 'unnit times then it's done. Brush away the steel wool bits with a cloth.

Murphy's oil cleaning

First dilute in a small tea cup 1 part Murphy's oil / 3 part waters. You only need an espresso size cup. get a lint cloth dip a corner of the cloth in the mixture and clean the whole neck. until the cloth is almost dry. Leave to dry out naturally and don't wipe off jack! It'll absorbe and nourish the wood

N.B. don't do the pauferro freatboard it doesn't need it!

TRU OIL

Kitchen towel is required here

Get a sheet of Kitchen towel fold it 4 times, open the top of the bottle and dub the middle of the folded sheet with the oil, on the back of the neck work it up and down, leave it for 10 minutes to dry and absorbe. do not bother to wipe off, move on to the wax


GUNSTOCK WAX

same thing with anoither kitchen towel sheet,
dub and apply to the back of the neck, 10 minutes to dry, get a nice clean cloth and wipe off, string up, tune and enjoy!
 
#5,287
Zoomie said:
Thank you so much GW.

Looks like I better wait until the SP5 arrives before pulling it apart. Can't afford to be without it right now.

I'll let you know how things turn out.
Click to expand...

Oh and to reassure you, this is from the Ernie Ball MM website

--------------
To clean the neck, use a high-grade of lemon oil. If the neck is very dirty, try Murphy's Oil Soap diluted 3:1. Some players have found that using a toothbrush for cleaning is very effective.
Since the neck is finished only with the gunstock oil/wax blend, it is more susceptible to humidity changes. A very infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Use a small amount, leave it on for just 5 minutes, then wipe it off with a paper towel. After that, apply Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.
Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores or directly. Their web address is Invalid Link Removed
Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with the gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil. Again, for cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner are excellent for frequent cleaning and maintenance as they are very effective and string removal is not necessary.
If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps! On an unfinished neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal. Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.
 
#5,288
Grand Wazoo said:
Oh and to reassure you, this is from the Ernie Ball MM website

--------------
To clean the neck, use a high-grade of lemon oil. If the neck is very dirty, try Murphy's Oil Soap diluted 3:1. Some players have found that using a toothbrush for cleaning is very effective.
Since the neck is finished only with the gunstock oil/wax blend, it is more susceptible to humidity changes. A very infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Use a small amount, leave it on for just 5 minutes, then wipe it off with a paper towel. After that, apply Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.
Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores or directly. Their web address is Invalid Link Removed
Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with the gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil. Again, for cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner are excellent for frequent cleaning and maintenance as they are very effective and string removal is not necessary.
If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps! On an unfinished neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal. Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.
Click to expand...

I disagree with them regarding the lemon oil. A lot of (if not all?) lemon oils have drying agents which are not good for your fingerboard. Mike Tobias told me to use boiled linseed oil, and that's been my fingerboard treatment of choice ever since.
 
#5,290
Yes that is right, I also disagree with EBMM regarding lemon oil because of the known side effects of drying, which is why I haven't mentioned it in my method.

Also I would like to let Zoomie know the following regarding the pau ferro wood. Now this wood is a "cousin" of ebony, in what it has all the same structure, density and durability of ebony minus the black colour, what you do with ebony? You leave it well alone, don't do s**t to it, don't rub it, don't douze it in any material, just use a wax free wood polish, and very lightly to wipe your sweat off, the porosity of this particular wood it's so hard that nothing penetrates it's grain so grime and dirt will only lay on the surface and will not tarnish it, hence why people uses them on fretless boards and I believe Sheldon (he might or might not discount this) uses it because of it's hard structure and acoustic sonic capability, very similar to ebony.

Pau Ferro/Morado Fingerboards

FINGERBOARDS PauFerro Morado -

In the last few years this has become quite a popular fingerboard wood, mostly among electric guitar manufacturers. The devotees include Fender™, Music Man™, Peavey™, Sadowsky™, and several more. It's likely to become even more popular in the next few years as it will probably be less expensive than Indian Rosewood, the current wood of choice for fingerboards among large manufacturers. Pau Ferro (Machaerium villosum or schleroxylon), also known as Morado, Santos Rosewood, or Bolivian Rosewood is not a true Rosewood, but it boasts many of the qualities that are highly regarded in a fingerboard wood. It's stable, abrasion resistant, hard, attractive, exotic and has good compression strength parallel to the grain. It's not so resinous that it can be difficult to glue like a few of the Rosewoods. From Brazil and Bolivia, supplies are adequate and no shortages are anticipated.
 
#5,293
reddavid said:
Is there no poly or sprayed finish on the Super series neck? Just oil/wax?

I think you could substitute 600 grit sandpaper/Emory cloth for the steel wool. Can use it wet. No metal filings to deal with.
Click to expand...

If there is a poly finish to the neck, it must be ever so thin because in all my Ding's was gone within weeks of playing.

Now there is something to say about steel wool vs emery paper, and that is that in my 30+ years experience doing this type of maintenance, the s/wool it's great because it's soft enough to model around the shape of a neck giving you a much more uniform removal of tiny layers of dirt/sweat whereas the paper does not fully cover the shape and it is more suitable for flat surfaces usually used with a sanding block where you work in a circular motion to remove (flatten) a dent from your lacquer.

I am referring to tried an tested methods that have proven to work better in the long run.
 
#5,294
spiritbass said:
That Super P had better show up before Zoomie's thumb wears clear through to the J's fretboard!
Click to expand...

Ken, I'm just not used to any drag whatsoever. Just noticed it last night and it instantly became a mild irritant. When you play something that is perfect in every way, the slightest issue is noticed.

And finally, this is exactly why I knew I needed two fivers. The rock thing wasn't a big deal, but with PT/CC, I do not function without that big fat low B.

That said, I received news on Friday that ETA on the SP5 is now December 7th ish for me. So I'll just have to drag the thumb a bit longer and hope I don't get a boo boo. :D

The weird part is that I just noticed that the laquer finish finally completely dried on the AVRI 63 P.
 
#5,295
Grand Wazoo said:
If there is a poly finish to the neck, it must be ever so thin because in all my Ding's was gone within weeks of playing.

Now there is something to say about steel wool vs emery paper, and that is that in my 30+ years experience doing this type of maintenance, the s/wool it's great because it's soft enough to model around the shape of a neck giving you a much more uniform removal of tiny layers of dirt/sweat whereas the paper does not fully cover the shape and it is more suitable for flat surfaces usually used with a sanding block where you work in a circular motion to remove (flatten) a dent from your lacquer.


I am referring to tried an tested methods that have proven to work better in the long run.
Click to expand...

The same issues arise with gun stocks and emery versus steel wool. The last thing I want to do is RE-SHAPE ! Neck is perfect !

I havent had any issues until recently. But I have been on the SJ on average 4-6 hours a day woodshedding and learning material. And I havent touched any other bass in the house in the last 60 days or so, other than some quick noodling.

If the neck is poly coated, you can measure finish thickness in nanometers. The body finish OTOH, shows zero wear at all body contact points. Not even any swirling.

And to be clear guys and gals, I'm not complaining. Just trying to maintain pristine playability.
 
#5,296
Zoomie said:
Ken, I'm just not used to any drag whatsoever. Just noticed it last night and it instantly became a mild irritant. When you play something that is perfect in every way, the slightest issue is noticed.

And finally, this is exactly why I knew I needed two fivers. The rock thing wasn't a big deal, but with PT/CC, I do not function without that big fat low B.

That said, I received news on Friday that ETA on the SP5 is now December 7th ish for me. So I'll just have to drag the thumb a bit longer and hope I don't get a boo boo. :D

The weird part is that I just noticed that the laquer finish finally completely dried on the AVRI 63 P.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Well, I guess I'll be also looking at a December delivery also. Interesting about your AVRI finish. When I started doing the 'printing thing' years ago, one of the first tidbits I learned is that ink never completely dries. It gets to where it won't smear when rubbed but never completely gets there...?! Weird. Kind of like my first electronics instructor stating that every signal ever generated is still floating around, just at a smaller magnitude. Interesting place, this universe!
 
#5,297
spiritbass said:
Gotcha. Well, I guess I'll be also looking at a December delivery also. Interesting about your AVRI finish. When I started doing the 'printing thing' years ago, one of the first tidbits I learned is that ink never completely dries. It gets to where it won't smear when rubbed but never completely gets there...?! Weird. Kind of like my first electronics instructor stating that every signal ever generated is still floating around, just at a smaller magnitude. Interesting place, this universe!
Click to expand...

I was going to PM you, however, I know that you're in the same boat as I. It gets here when it gets here and you can't rush perfection.

One of the complaints you have heard crop up with the popularity of Nitro Laq. instruments making a comeback, is that they are very sticky. It has been said, by some folks who alledgedly know what they are talking about, that it takes nitro about a year to dry/gas off to the point where it is smooth and no longer sticky. It's a pain early on as you find yourself wiping the neck regularly due to stickiness. Then it just goes away at some point and is glorious. I dont know that it ever really dries completely so the parallel to ink is probably spot on.

If the comment about music is true, then it's safe to say that almost half of all sour notes or clams ever played are mine. Sorry about that, universe.
 
#5,298
Zoomie said:
SJ5 has been here all year and has a baltic amber pick guard.

The upcoming SP5 also has a Baltic amber pick guard. It was sketchy for a while because it became virtually impossible for Dingwall to source. Fortunately, Sheldon was able to purchase the remaining original stock of the stuff.

It is the only pick guard shade by my eye to make the white really pop. If they were unable to have the Baltic, I'd be awaiting my fiesta red SP5 right now.

Both basses are Pau Ferro fret boards with maple necks. I actually prefer the look and feel of maple fret boards but my playing style (or lack thereof) induces a ton of clack with maple boards.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I meant SP5. I'd love to see a white SP5 with a white guard. I don't think I have seen one yet.

Baltic Amber is a cool choice. Of course, you can never go wrong with tort either.
 
#5,300
Guys, does anyone here own an Afterburner 1 with whalepool/purple/purple to black burst or ferrari yellow without blacked out head and heel?
I'm stuck on colour selection :help:

Really love the purple to black burst, but my budget is kinda tight, so it's either finish or blacked out neck :bawl: Not sure how it will look with purple to black and without a blackout

Any opinions are also welcome! =)
 

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