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Dingwall Owners Club

I wouldn't be shocked to hear that they break off.

The EBMM wheel I had massive issues with on two different Sterlings, which happily sent me on my journey to Dingwalls though, so, I'm OK with how it turned out :D
The wheel they had on the Fender Ultra (or was it Elite?) series was terrible. With Sadowsky or EBMM you can put a small screwdriver all the way through the front and the back and turning is easy. But with the Fender wheel, it was more like a tinker toy an only fit a 1/8" round tool just a small depth and the metal it was made from was very soft and would distort. Not a fan of that setup.
 
The wheel they had on the Fender Ultra (or was it Elite?) series was terrible. With Sadowsky or EBMM you can put a small screwdriver all the way through the front and the back and turning is easy. But with the Fender wheel, it was more like a tinker toy an only fit a 1/8" round tool just a small depth and the metal it was made from was very soft and would distort. Not a fan of that setup.
That distortion was exactly what happened to both of my Sterlings (US made ones, not the Sterling imports, for clarity). Two holes became oblong, and one distorted enough that you could no longer get a tool into it and turn with it. EBMM fixed both, and to their credit, for very reasonable cost.
 
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Watching Jacob Umansky playing a fastlane only makes me realize it's been complete crickets for quite some time regarding his impending sig model.

I realize the guys have been pretty busy lately and have dropped some surprises lately like the fastlane & Nashville models. They also probably want some space in between the JT & JU sigs but I think it's been a few years, and I feel like I heard about the JU way before anyone knew about the JT.

I broke out my Ibby 6 this week for the first time in a while which only exacerbates the issue as now I want to channel my inner Steve Lawson and do some more chording and looping again but the Ibby really isn't cutting it. I'm not sure if they'll be fast-laning 6s but I doubt it and the Nashville will certainly be just 4s & 5s. It would make sense if the JU were only offered in 5 or 6. A white and black ceruse import for $3K seems like a slam dunk so makes me wonder how much more awesome they're trying to make it.

I dont want to wait for next year's NAMM and I certainly dont have the patience to hop in the queue so here's to hoping they release the JU or perhaps the elusive headless in a 6 string sooner than later. Not holding my breath though.
 
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I would just look for a used Dingwall sixer.

Waiting around for unicorns and rainbows won’t feed your looper.

What’s the problem with the Ibanez? Maybe a new set of strings and a set up, some maintenance cleaning and sanding, could get the project moving while you hunt a Dingwall.

Good luck!
Thanks! You are very correct, it is definitely in need of some love and attention. A little truss rod tweak & adjustment to intonation would definitely help. I used to play the hell out of it and spacing was never an issue, but I found it a little tight for my liking lately. And I'm just always reaching for a Dingwall lately. I've got the strings already...steels and black beauties...so may be time to black it out. I've also got a luminay rod in my amazon cart thanks to you and was thinking this would be a good bass to do a practice run before I start drilling holes in my Dingwalls. Hardest choice is green or blue...but the dots are different sizes, so I'll probably just get one of each color in different sizes.
 
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Now you are talking.

Amazon didn’t have all the Luminlay products, especially the 3mm rods. Go directly to the Luminlay site. Don’t worry, it looks like a lot of yen, but it converts to US dollars and takes PayPal.

I thought the $15 shipping was a bit steep, but that’s really fast air FedX. (Bummer is I used to get it in a week anyway and with lots of cool Japanese stamps)

One rod easily does a 24 fret bass with twin dots at 12 and 24.

I like the Steve Lawson stuff. He really exploits the harmonic capabilities of the six string, and he’s really good at looping.

Fresh strings, clean and oil, fret polish, sand the back of the neck to glassy smooth, dial in the set up…it’ll be all lovey dovey all over again.

At least that’s how it worked with my AB-1.

And there’s always setting up your Dingwall E-C. For $5, price of a single C, you are off to the races.

I don’t know how many loopers have come and gone, but I’ll probably do it again at some point. Maybe that’s just how looping goes. Around in circles!

My Zoom B3n has the easiest to use loop and drum machine, but it’s got limits. Worse thing, if I turn it off, that great drum, bass, and guitar loop is gone for good. And it was a great take…

I had the boss RC 300 for a long time, but foolishly let it go. Three loops, rhythms, fx, and massive storage. A bit on the complex side, like a 100 page manual. Probably find a used one for under $300 these days.
 
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What's the difference between the Afterburner and the Z series? Dingwall noob here.
This tool can give you the actual tech specs


Summary:
-body shape, thickness
-headstock angle and option for matching.
-bridge. Very different designs for one model To the other.
-neck profile/design. Significant difference between the 2.

Other differences are now more so customizable between one model to another where as they used to have a different electronics spec and body wood spec, etc.
 
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Newbie question for my Dingwall friends. I have a 2023 NG3. This pick guard thing is just crazy to me. I would like to just ditch it, but what other options do you all have? I have a small collection and only just a couple have pick guards. I think I really don't like them.
 
Newbie question for my Dingwall friends. I have a 2023 NG3. This pick guard thing is just crazy to me. I would like to just ditch it, but what other options do you all have? I have a small collection and only just a couple have pick guards. I think I really don't like them.

Invest in a refinish to make the screw holes disappear. :cool:
 
Invest in a refinish to make the screw holes disappear. :cool:
That’s a very expensive option, but it is the only way to completely lose the guard and holes. You’ll also lose the headstock logo, which is something you may not want, unless they can colour match the body and you are happy to keep it the same colour, in which case the cost will be much lower.

Why not just take it off and leave it as is? Sure you’ll have holes, but you’ll get used to it and can return the bass to stock if you sell it.
 
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That’s a very expensive option, but it is the only way to completely lose the guard and holes. You’ll also lose the headstock logo, which is something you may not want, unless they can colour match the body and you are happy to keep it the same colour, in which case the cost will be much lower.

Why not just take it off and leave it as is? Sure you’ll have holes, but you’ll get used to it and can return the bass to stock if you sell it.
It was an option, but not feasible. I may just cut one from clear plexi, or as you say, just pull it off all together.