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Dingwall Owners Club

First string change on the Z today. I used that Meguiars spray Sheldon recommends. Polished up and ready for the dance!
 

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Snagged myself another Dingwall 4, my second DROC. I really enjoy the way these basses play and sound, I’m slowly making them my signature instrument. My old wounded shoulder appreciates the sub 8# weight vs my nearly 10# Combustion 4. Best part of the deal was the $1200 price tag! It pays to keep your eyes other local marketplace if you have the money to spend.
 

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Snagged myself another Dingwall 4, my second DROC. I really enjoy the way these basses play and sound, I’m slowly making them my signature instrument. My old wounded shoulder appreciates the sub 8# weight vs my nearly 10# Combustion 4. Best part of the deal was the $1200 price tag! It pays to keep your eyes other local marketplace if you have the money to spend.
Cool, I’m going to start looking for a deal like that! What do you prefer droc 5 or 4?
 
It depends on what I’m doing musically. I generally prefer the 4, because the 5 string neck causes carpal tunnel pain spending too much time heavy riffing in the first position. The 4’s are tuned to C standard for my heavy band. The 5 is great for my cover band tuned a half step down. I have to cover more ground in that gig, where the heavier band is really basic. The DROC 5 definitely makes me more money!

The benefits of the longer low string are evident even with only a 3/4” difference, the B on the 5 is noticeably bigger sounding than a B on the 4, using the exact same strings. Other than that they sound remarkably similar.

Honestly, I love them all! I’d say if you can find one in the $1400-1700 range that’s in good shape consider snagging it! Worst case scenario is you don’t bond with it and you can sell it to one of us to break even. Money in the bank!

Cool, I’m going to start looking for a deal like that! What do you prefer droc 5 or 4?
 
SP1 (5) incoming…what are my options for flats? I’m not seeing any listed, at all my usual vendors…

I haven't tried the flats , but I have tried Payson multi scale round wounds, and they are great strings. Excellent customer service too.
 
Any UK based Z3, ABII or ABI players within a 2 hour radius of Essex at all please (even better if somebody has 2 or 3 of these)?

Looking to finalise my build specs over the course of the next two weeks or so and just would like to try each of the 3 if anybody would be kind enough to let me pop over please :) I'd be so grateful!

Just to make sure I'm making the right choice in terms of feel - sound wise I'm pretty sold on the Neve preamp now - just deciding whether or not to go FDV's or SFII's (hard rock and metal/metalcore/hardcore player here) - any suggestions please?
 
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Im tempted to try those new IMA LaBellas. They aren't "true" flats though. More like hybrids
I’ve got IMA strings on two of my Lull’s…found they don’t work for me on everything, but wow…when they do—nothing quite like ‘em…: )

Based on your reply, maybe I asked the wrong question earlier…do “regular” long scale strings fit on SP’s? If that’s the case, I’ve got several options on hand. Just assumed I was needing special multi-scale strings (bass isn’t here yet, for me to measure)…
 
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Any UK based Z3, ABII or ABI players within a 2 hour radius of Essex at all please (even better if somebody has 2 or 3 of these)?

Looking to finalise my build specs over the course of the next two weeks or so and just would like to try each of the 3 if anybody would be kind enough to let me pop over please :) I'd be so grateful!

Just to make sure I'm making the right choice in terms of feel - sound wise I'm pretty sold on the Neve preamp now - just deciding whether or not to go FDV's or SFII's (hard rock and metal/metalcore/hardcore player here) - any suggestions please?
my jazz 4 has fdv… and my ab1’s have fd3.


the above graphic imho is a great representation of what to expect. i have not tried the p tone or fatty however… but i like a mid forward sound (p tone was a pass), and i like a clean bottom end for my wild overdrive and very low tuning, making the fatty a pass also.

In hindsight, i love the bridge/mid in series so much on all my and it gets 90% use… 10% neck solo. a fatty in the neck position might make for a nice variety at the neck position.

maybe you did not ask, but imho here is a great summary of the preamps…

“EMG B64 - This is a more traditionally voiced bass preamp. 30Hz Bass / 600Hz Mid / 6kHz Treble. The result when you boost the bass is mostly boom. 31Hz is the fundamental for an Open B, so on a 4-string you are basically EQing sub harmonics... 600Hz is a nice midrange frequency and is useable. 6kHz (6000Hz) is basically high end finger squeak, sizzle, and upper harmonics. You will boost this if you want that really brilliant gospel snap for example. So if you want a more traditional bass EQ, these are the kind of frequency adjustments you see other standard 3-band preamps.

Darkglass - This was actually developed with Sheldon Dingwall and some of the cats from Darkglass. This preamp boosts / cuts more useable frequencies. It does not add noise like a "Darkglass Drive Pedal." it boosts and cuts frequencies that are very useable for todays bassists of all styles! 70Hz Bass / 500Hz Mids / 2.8kHz Treble. So when you boost the 70Hz bass, you are actually boosting fundamental frequencies and not just rumble. 500Hz for the mids is very punchy and helps give your tone more oomph. 2.8kHz for the treble is high enough to boost brilliance but also giving more clarity to the tone, this doesn't just boost finger squeak and upperharmonic noise.

Neve Preamp - This one is a 2-Band but has the master tone control as mentioned earlier. The Bass is at 20Hz, again in the lower end but it has a wider "Q" so more frequencies are influenced. You can get a big bottom end with this without getting too much boom. Treble is at 4.4kHz which is up there, but it is not as brittle sounding as the EMG at 6kHz. The Master Tone Control when all the way up is flat, and when you roll it back it cuts the highs. Boosting treble and rolling back the tone makes a very unique sound.”

I use an eq pedal… but i wont lie that the darkglass preamp imho is the best 3 band eq of any amp (or head) i have used… simply because the the frequencies are ones are so usable.

most traditional are knobs for low rumble, mids, and knob for highs that only guitarists and dogs hear. where i look at the dg as more low mids, mids, high mids if that makes sense.
 
I’ve got IMA strings on two of my Lull’s…found they don’t work for me on everything, but wow…when they do—nothing quite like ‘em…: )

Based on your reply, maybe I asked the wrong question earlier…do “regular” long scale strings fit on SP’s? If that’s the case, I’ve got several options on hand. Just assumed I was needing special multi-scale strings (bass isn’t here yet, for me to measure)…
Update: Jason (FN) hooked me up/built a set—GHS Precision flats.
 
What a trio! Each a looker in their own way.
How would you describe their differences, both tone and feel?
super j 4: feels like a jazz but with a neck that is more consistent in fretboard width and not as wide as you get to the higher frets. i prefer it to a traditional jazz neck. it is not too narrow, not too wide… not too thick… it is just a neck that feels flawless from too to bottom. as a result i never notice it.

perfect balance, fast neck, light… probably the perfect gateway drug to get a traditional-bass-boomer-fender-type into multifret.

i spec all my bases with dg preamp as i am a big fan of the frequency centres which i see as low mids, mid, high mids.

it has fdv pickups which are high mid focused on an amp/preamp set flat. i like to start with a mid forward sound so works for me as clarity is high. this is not a thumper. Eq will give you all the thump you need however. i use it as a stingray tone in jazz clothing, but the neck/bridge parallel setting will edge toward more traditional j bass scoop… but this is not a fender sound… even if it looks like it should be.

Ab1’s: the 5 is a standard 5, dg preamp, fd3. more mid to low mid focused sound than the fdv. i think i prefer the fd3.

what can i say… it is a five with what reminds me of a jazz type fingerboard width taper. Like the the super j… i cant comment much on the neck other than it feels as or more accessible than most non dingwall 4’s.

again. we all see the fan frets… but imho the dingwall superpower is the neck shape. some of my ric necks feel thick, some thin, jazz feels narrow near the headstock… the dingwalls just feel perfect to the point that i just play and never think of the neck. It always feels “right”.

The green 6 is again fd3, dg. Walnut body, gdaebf# tuning. this bass is a beast and it wants to kill your family and do evil things. But here is the wild part.. to me it is a 6 with the accessability of most 5er’s in regards to the neck. Reach is just a non issue for all but the highest notes on the F#. It is remarkable.

It makes for a heavy bass (the f# alone is a python) based on modern boomer standards (back problems as they age). But the slender body, perfect balance, and playability of the neck make it an easy play. my back has yet to complain… or notice.

But maybe i am weird. to me the basses that annoy me are not about weight, but rather poor balance. thunderbirds and my super light danelectro were far more fatiguing to play…

It was my first 6 and i was like “this is no big deal”.

they are all keepers but the green bass is the one bass to rule them all imho. like the one ring, it also corrupts my thoughts and is telling me to put a super fatty at the neck. this way i can plug in an just ruin peoples cabinets with the low end.
 
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