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Dingwall Owners Club

I’m losing my patience with Dingwall. If the bass was a year old or older I can understand waiting a bit get the problem resolved, but the bass is only 7 days old.
I thought perhaps I had a problem with the jack touching the sides of the body so I slid it out and tried, but still got nothing. They had me take photos of the control cavity today to check that everything was hooked up correctly but never got back to me.
I think I’ll insert a plug and check the tip and ground connections at various point in the circuit with a multimeter to see if the signal is getting through. I can check them both all the way to the 4 position switch.
Have you addressed the issue through the dealer you purchased it from?

Dingwall works with many dealers have the skills and experience to deal with these type issue, which are incredibly rare.

Ie, if you bought it from John fox of fretnation either of those fine fellows would be putting in serious effort to get you rolling.

Dingwall is working hard to put out top quality instruments and they have been in a constant battle to keep up with demand which is why they prefer to filter a lot of the front end work through competent dealers like sales and concerns so they can focus on getting basses out the door.

I get your frustration and perhaps it can be sorted through the seller.

Perhaps a stupid question but have you tried a different cable?
 
I’m losing my patience with Dingwall. If the bass was a year old or older I can understand waiting a bit get the problem resolved, but the bass is only 7 days old.
I thought perhaps I had a problem with the jack touching the sides of the body so I slid it out and tried, but still got nothing. They had me take photos of the control cavity today to check that everything was hooked up correctly but never got back to me.
I think I’ll insert a plug and check the tip and ground connections at various point in the circuit with a multimeter to see if the signal is getting through. I can check them both all the way to the 4 position switch.
I'm going to say something stupid, but it happened to me to after 20 years of playing bass when i got my dingwall NG3. You have to push it in quite hard. When i plug it in like i do with my fender or music man, it isn't all the way in. I have to remember to give it a good push because the first "clunk" sound/feel means the plug isn't all the way in, push it in with some force!
 
Dingwall hasn't downsized/laid off people. They're just a very tiny company, and only expand and hire with a lot of thought and planning. They're not going to instantly reply to everyone 24x7 unfortunately. And IMO owning any instrument means being able to spend some time troubleshooting when things go wrong, new or not. It super sucks having that happen - I had it happen with a couple very $$$$ USA Spectors and USA EBMMs, so I get it. But nothing is perfect and we gotta be flexible as musicians to deal with things as they come 🙂
Thanks for the input. I’m trying to be patient and have done my due diligence in troubleshooting per their instructions. They didn’t ask for this but I took it upon myself to use a multimeter to track all the passive connections (positive and ground) from jack and they all checked fine all the way to the rotary switch. I don’t know enough about the circuitry beyond there to go forward.

This will be my 5th day of trouble shooting and to honest, my patience is wearing thin. In this particular instance NBD didn’t live up to the billing. 🙂
 
I'm going to say something stupid, but it happened to me to after 20 years of playing bass when i got my dingwall NG3. You have to push it in quite hard. When i plug it in like i do with my fender or music man, it isn't all the way in. I have to remember to give it a good push because the first "clunk" sound/feel means the plug isn't all the way in, push it in with some force!
Sorry for the long reply.
If I’d realized the initial problem of the jack cup retaining screws not being completely screwed into their holes we may not be having this conversation. It’s nearly impossible to see if they’re all the way in.
If they’re even a 1/2 turn short of being all the way in, the plug casing will hit them and restrict full insertion. I was getting some popping and crackling so I tried another cable with the same result.
That’s when I contacted tech support and started the troubleshooting, removing the input jack and bending the tip contact per their recommendation. While I had it out I inserted a plug and it went all the way in and seated properly. I reinstalled it and still had the problem.
It wasn’t until Saturday that I realized the screws were causing the problem. The assembly dept obviously hadn’t drilled the mounting holes deep enough because it took everything I had to get them completely seated. Also, it couldn’t have been checked, tested or played prior to me receiving it or it would have been noticed and corrected.
At this point it does nothing in either active or passive mode so I’m awaiting their next email.
 
Have you addressed the issue through the dealer you purchased it from?

I get your frustration and perhaps it can be sorted through the seller.

Perhaps a stupid question but have you tried a different cable?
Yes, I’ve been in constant contact with the dealer who is in Canada and wants me to work with tech support to reach a solution, even if it means he needs to replace it.

And, not a stupid question, yes I’ve tried several cables. 🙂
 
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UPDATE: The most recent email says they’re going to replace the entire circuit which I assume means most everything in the control cavity. However, there’s a twist. They’re wanting to ship it to me and have me replace it. So basically I end up with what most would consider a B-Stock instrument which is not what I purchased.
And YES, I’m upset!
 
UPDATE: The most recent email says they’re going to replace the entire circuit which I assume means most everything in the control cavity. However, there’s a twist. They’re wanting to ship it to me and have me replace it. So basically I end up with what most would consider a B-Stock instrument which is not what I purchased.
And YES, I’m upset!
...wouldn't B-stock be something unrepairable, like a mar in the finish? Needing new electronics isn't ideal, but they're fixing the problem.
 
UPDATE: The most recent email says they’re going to replace the entire circuit which I assume means most everything in the control cavity. However, there’s a twist. They’re wanting to ship it to me and have me replace it. So basically I end up with what most would consider a B-Stock instrument which is not what I purchased.
And YES, I’m upset!
I think I’d be upset too. Replacing the electronics by yourself on a brand new bass that arrived DOA is a lot to ask of a customer. In my mind, a DOA bass is not a warranty case, it’s a return it and send me one that works case.
 
UPDATE: The most recent email says they’re going to replace the entire circuit which I assume means most everything in the control cavity. However, there’s a twist. They’re wanting to ship it to me and have me replace it. So basically I end up with what most would consider a B-Stock instrument which is not what I purchased.
And YES, I’m upset!
Have you expressed your desired outcome to them?
 
UPDATE: The most recent email says they’re going to replace the entire circuit which I assume means most everything in the control cavity. However, there’s a twist. They’re wanting to ship it to me and have me replace it. So basically I end up with what most would consider a B-Stock instrument which is not what I purchased.
And YES, I’m upset!
I understand not wanting to deal with that. In your shoes, I'd return the bass to where you got it and move on. It looks like you and Dingwall weren't meant to be.
 
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My guess is that this is the quickest form of making you whole that Dingwall has available to them. A replacement bass could be weeks or even months out and you'd be even more up in arms over that, gauging by the reaction.

I'm also quite certain that Dingwall would pay for a luthier to do the work. I've seen that time and again for even tiny and self-induced things like the toggle switch breaking for some folks.

If you're not up for any of that though, then yeah, get the dealer to work with you on your return and maybe have Dingwall send the parts there, so the dealer can swap it.

Things happen sometimes, and there is no product out there with a 100% success rate. It's unfortunate that it happened to you with this bass. Now you need to take a minute, cool yourself down, and think if you want to keep it or return it. It's not worth getting upset over.
 
No and honestly I shouldn’t need to if they really care about their customers.
I agree to an extent, but, if you don't express what you want from them they will offer their typical solution to scenarios that come up like this one. Similar to what Selta said, in their eyes, this is probably the solution that gets you operational the fastest.

I would ask them for what you want and then go from there. "You have not because you ask not."

Just my 2 cents. Hope it gets worked out for you either way!
 
No and honestly I shouldn’t need to if they really care about their customers.
Expecting people to read your mind as to what will make you happy is setting the situation up for failure.

Request a return and/or replacement if you do not find replacing parts to be a feasible solution. They should abide.


Sorry you won’t have it for fridays gig and unfortunately that’s how life goes sometimes.
Dingwall has pleased a very very high percentage of their customers, the proof is out there. It doesn’t sound like anyone has done anything wrong at this point and everyone is trying to get you to a happy place.
Dictate what that happy place is so they understand.

Simply, they sent you a faulty bass and will make it right in some form. Tell them what form you prefer.
 
Expecting people to read your mind as to what will make you happy is setting the situation up for failure.

Request a return and/or replacement if you do not find replacing parts to be a feasible solution. They should abide.


Sorry you won’t have it for fridays gig and unfortunately that’s how life goes sometimes.
Dingwall has pleased a very very high percentage of their customers, the proof is out there. It doesn’t sound like anyone has done anything wrong at this point and everyone is trying to get you to a happy place.
Dictate what that happy place is so they understand.

Simply, they sent you a faulty bass and will make it right in some form. Tell them what form you prefer.
First of all, I appreciate all the input and recommendations on how to handle this.
Thanks to all of you no matter what your response was. I know this is a fluke and that this isn’t the quality norm for Dingwall. It’s quite the opposite.
I still want an NG3 but right now it’s kinda hanging in the balance. The sad part about it is I’ve done absolutely nothing wrong in this whole scenario other than perhaps not being firm about what I expect and that’s on me. It’s totally unreasonable for me to expect Dingwall to automatically react like most other manufacturers by replacing the bass.

I sent an email to the quality control manager. I basically said that after thinking about it I feel that asking me to repair it is a bit much. I added that I’ve done everything requested of me up to this point and feel that I’m going to end up with what’s usually considered a B-Stock bass when I actually paid for a new one.
Finally I added I feel the right thing to do at this point is to replace the bass, but if that’s not an option I will return it for a refund and consider whether to try again or buy something elsewhere.
If they decide I should return it for a refund that’s what I’ll do.
The dealer has another one in stock and perhaps he’d be willing send it to me and I can return this so he can deal with Dingwall on getting a credit for it.
I would think Dingwall would cover all the shipping, but there’s go thinking again.🙂
 
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First of all, I appreciate all the input and recommendations on how to handle this.
Thanks to all of you no matter what your response was. I know this is a fluke and that this isn’t the quality norm for Dingwall. It’s quite the opposite.
I still want an NG3 but right now it’s kinda hanging in the balance. The sad part about it is I’ve done absolutely nothing wrong in this whole scenario other than perhaps not being firm about what I expect and that’s on me. It’s totally unreasonable for me to expect Dingwall to automatically react like most other manufacturers by replacing the bass.

I sent an email to the quality control manager. I basically said that after thinking about it I feel that asking me to repair it is a bit much. I added that I’ve done everything requested of me up to this point and feel that I’m going to end up with what’s usually considered a B-Stock bass when I actually paid for a new one.
Finally I added I feel the right thing to do at this point is to replace the bass, but if that’s not an option I will return it for a refund and consider whether to try again or buy something elsewhere.
If they decide I should return it for a refund that’s what I’ll do.
The dealer has another one in stock and perhaps he’d be willing send it to me and I can return this so he can deal with Dingwall on getting a credit for it.
I would think Dingwall would cover all the shipping, but there’s go thinking again.🙂
FWIW, Dingwall is of the standard of replacing basses for sure. I assume(I shouldn’t do that) that they are trying to get you up and running as quick as possible.

a recount of an experience I had once(I’ll keep it as short as possible):

I spec’d a Z model bass

Waited 2 yrs, it showed up not to exact spec.

I brought up the concerns. Sheldon made a new bass. I had to wait a few extra months for it but it then turned out exactly how I dreamed. I didn’t fully expect that as the resolution but that is what took place. I’m happy as heck.

On top of that my dealer let me hold the “B” stock(HOW DARE I!!!) until the new one arrived.
above and beyond I’d say.
 
Similar experience I'm going through at the moment, and honestly, it's only made me have deeper appreciation for Dingwall all the more.
Was in queue for a long time as well - that's normal.
First build got done. Dingwall reached out asking if I was happy with it, as, they didn't think it hit all the points I had asked for, especially with the finish (but also the inlays). That build ended up with Sweetwater, who, apparently recently sold it when I said I would pass on it.
Now the rebuild was in process, and they had finished the neck, and thought I might not be perfectly thrilled with that. I think they know me all too well and hopefully don't think I'm a PITA. But, after I thought about it and looked at photos of the finished neck, I decided that yeah, when dropping this many thousands, I want as close to what I had in my head, not "close enough". I'm sure that build will get finished and sold and someone will end up with an amazing bass out of it.
So now I'm on the 2nd rebuild, third try for my latest Z. I get to be an early adopter of a brand new fretboard wood, which is pretty cool. But it will be another 3-ish months til this build is done.
I feel really bad "sending back" those other two, all in all. But I am excited for this build even if it's taking longer, through no one's fault at all. I could get all upset and bothered that the first finish didn't turn out correctly and the wood inlays were not what I imagined, but, wood is gonna do what it does sometimes, and ya just gotta roll with it.