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Dingwall Owners Club

I never really considered using rechargeable 9V batteries. What I had heard is that alkaline will die slowly, so you have a period of time where your signal is distorted, but the bass isn't dead. With rechargeables, they die quickly giving you less time to swap batteries.
Depends on the battery chemistry, but that can be true yes. The system I use basically has a flat voltage curve, then just drops to nearly 0. Which is why I've made it so that I can easily recharge, so I just recharge often, even if the batteries will last an estimated 350hr between charges.
 
Less about the battery. I have plenty of rechargable 9v batteries (I even built a small charger into my rack, so I always have charged spares, too). For mine, I just plug a USB-C connector in and it charges the batteries while in the bass. In theory while even playing it, but, I've never proven that out 😂 granted it's already easy to pop the magnet cover and pull them out, but, just plugging a cable in is even easier. And I can use batteries with much more Ah capacity, so I get way, way longer run times than a pair of normal 9v batteries.
Which batteries are you using ?
I tried a couple of rechargeable ones and was not entirely satisfied with them.

Something like that would be nice I think :

Internal battery pack, usb-c connector, LEDs for viewing how much is left - plus an extra separate space for a normal battery as backup, so all bases are covered.

Or maybe that's just totally overengineered belt and braces, I'm not sure :)
 
I use pouch cells I've self-sourced. I'm an electronics nerd so I completely DIY'd it, and, it certainly isn't something I'm overly proud of.

For comparison though, 2x9v batteries in parallel get you about 1200 mAh of capacity, when in parallel. Mine is about 1700mAh, nearly 50% more capacity / run time. I actually found 2000 mAh pouches that would also fit but the BMS and charge connector would likely be very tight fit and I'd likely need to move to PCB for it.

I've thought about offering it as a retro-fit for Dingwalls, but, idk how much market there would be on it. The by-hand ones right now are several hours of hand work to get done.
 
Easy way to enlarge the hole is with a deep socket thats a smaller diameter and wrap some sandpaper around it.
Thanks man. It’s done.

4EF8C882-A007-40BF-AE7C-1F466603BC73-14913-0000023C45596739.jpeg
 
What’s on your wishlist from Dingwall?

Here’s mine.

1) true Single coil pickups in Dingwall shells. I’d probably go something like single coils in the neck and bridge and a P-tone in the middle.
2) A rotary with DIP switches for some variety in pickup selections.
3) A Dingwall t-shirt. I want to represent!!
I'd also be interested in #2. I feel like a 6-way (or even 8) could be had pretty easily with a little pcb action. DIP switches would likely even simplify it.
 
I use pouch cells I've self-sourced. I'm an electronics nerd so I completely DIY'd it, and, it certainly isn't something I'm overly proud of.

For comparison though, 2x9v batteries in parallel get you about 1200 mAh of capacity, when in parallel. Mine is about 1700mAh, nearly 50% more capacity / run time. I actually found 2000 mAh pouches that would also fit but the BMS and charge connector would likely be very tight fit and I'd likely need to move to PCB for it.

I've thought about offering it as a retro-fit for Dingwalls, but, idk how much market there would be on it. The by-hand ones right now are several hours of hand work to get done.
Ok, thanks.

I could DIY it too but I've been too lazy up to that point apparently :)
 
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Sheldon said he drew from the tone and resonance of marimba bars for the body of his new Effigy. The Dingwall website lists swamp ash and Fijian mahogany as body wood choices while I heard from a dealer that the first year of production (2026) would use alder bodies to get the fabrication process fine-tuned before offering other woods. I don't have the final word but wondered what the tonal differences are between marimba bars made from alder, swamp ash, and mahogany. And yes, for a marimba bar, wood type does make a difference because of different densities, stiffness, and internal damping.
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Obviously, a rosewood body would be too heavy and impractical for any bass guitar, but for a body engineered to capture some of the resonant qualities of a marimba bar I find this spectrum interesting. Gotta hand it to Sheldon for pushing the envelope with the application of novel and useful engineering concepts.
 
Seems like stainless would be a great upgrade then. 10 years isn't bad at all but "everlasting frets" would be a nice touch on any expensive bass especially one costing as much as the customs.
My 2005 AB1 (mine since 2007) is showing minimal wear and is used at least 3hrs a week on average. Nowhere near needing replacement yet.
 
A
My 2005 AB1 (mine since 2007) is showing minimal wear and is used at least 3hrs a week on average. Nowhere near needing replacement yet.
We have twins! My 2005 AB1 (1st owner) started showing the typical Dingwall fret grooves quite soon. But I haven’t noticed much change since then. I play it weekly and I suspect the frets will last me at least another decade (says this hopeful 72 year old).
 
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Hey all, just thought I'd share a picture of the body I built for my ABZ.

I didn't want to butcher the original but I wanted a different electronics package...so...

Screenshot 2026-02-07 at 11.27.56 AM.png


Turner multicoil pickups paired with an underhill preamp.

It sounds just like I hoped, I can't want to test it out next practice.

It is my first build ever, and man did I learn a lot. Lots of imperfections in there, but that doesn't really matter to be as from 3 feet+ away you can't really tell.

Big shout outs to @slowburnaz for all his help (and patience) as he help outline options as I was drawing it up and to @Bruce Johnson for his write up on painting (https://www.talkbass.com/threads/us...nd-varathane-wb.1116168/page-11#post-18172153)!
 

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