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Dingwall Owners Club

We got this configuration to work after about three attempts on my 2017 NG-2View attachment 2901142 .
First, switch the original bridge pu to the middle and the neck to the bridge.
Wire the P-Tone in reverse to the instructions. Fixes phase issues.
Good Luck!

Are your magnetic poles the same as mine? I don't see how this could ever work correctly on the A string the way the poles are.
 
Are your magnetic poles the same as mine? I don't see how this could ever work correctly on the A string the way the poles are.

I am assuming the P-Tone's are the same. After switching the positions of the original pups, the only issues we had were solved by switching the positive and negative leads on the P-Tone going to the Std 3 PU switch (not D-Bird). Works like a champ!
 
I honestly get all the times I could ever need just from the Tone Fusion on my SP5 and changing my right hand position. Everything from dub/reggae via rock to jazz.

I’m a recent convert to the beauty of the Super P5 and completely agree with @The_Owl. The Tone Dusion control is amazing (as is the super p5). I play in reggae, NOLA STYLE funk/rock and space doom bands and the SP5 does it all... I am completely bought into the Dingwall experience.
 
Thanks. I am not familiar with all the Dingwall pup acronyms. I assume FDP is what I have in my bass now?
They’re technically called FD3, as it’s the 3rd iteration of the Fury-Dingwall neodymium pickup. The FDV, as mentioned has an AlNiCo V magnet, hence the naming convention. The FDV is a more traditional sound, and I’m not sure if @Sheldon D. has a AlNiCo P pickup or not...
 
I think the new(ish) FDVs go a loooong way in helping provide some old school whoop a$$. They have a very strong mid, especially low mid presence.

I have a D Bird and couldn’t begin to imagine needing more thump. In fact, I have to reign the thump in. It’s like pulling the pin on a grenade, placing it between your legs and driving down a cobblestone street in a ‘64 Willy’s.
+++ Heckuva graphic description! Methinks I understand your point.
 
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This one has the optical illusion feeling to it.
 

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They’re technically called FD3, as it’s the 3rd iteration of the Fury-Dingwall neodymium pickup. The FDV, as mentioned has an AlNiCo V magnet, hence the naming convention. The FDV is a more traditional sound, and I’m not sure if @Sheldon D. has a AlNiCo P pickup or not...

Yeah, FD3-P (I was dropping the three) Sheldon plans on developing an FDV version of the split-P (according to Jeff), but I don't know when.
 
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I am assuming the P-Tone's are the same. After switching the positions of the original pups, the only issues we had were solved by switching the positive and negative leads on the P-Tone going to the Std 3 PU switch (not D-Bird). Works like a champ!

You have a newer bass than mine with the newer style pickups. I am curious of all the p-tone pickups have the magnetic polarity that mine has or if I have a weird one?

Another difference between your bass and mine is the pickups. I don't have the FD-3n pickups that you have, mine are FD3-4L pickups like the Canadian AB's have.

I would be very interested to see what the magnetic polarity is on a factory 3 pickup Dingwall bass.

I may never convert mine to 3 pickup. Having second thoughts. It sounds awesome like it is. But now that I have gone down this road of research, I have to know....
 
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You have a newer bass than mine with the newer style pickups. I am curious of all the p-tone pickups have the magnetic polarity that mine has or if I have a weird one?

Another difference between your bass and mine is the pickups. I don't have the FD-3n pickups that you have, mine are FD3-4L pickups like the Canadian AB's have.

I would be very interested to see what the magnetic polarity is on a factory 3 pickup Dingwall bass.

I may never convert mine to 3 pickup. Having second thoughts. It sounds awesome like it is. But now that I have gone down this road of research, I have to know....
I know what you mean. While I do order all my Canadian basses with the 3x and absolutely love this configuration, I am not sure it is "needed" to have the 3rd pickup especially when using amp and pedals, but more of a preference.
Maybe more of a differential in the studio? I think perhaps simply moving the pickup forward will produce almost as much a different sound as well (?). But heck, I am always for versatility and 3 does add that so I am all for it.
 
I think I'll be fine 'limping along' on only two pickups. ;) ;) ;) I am digging this bass so much. Of course, after finding out that I can get FDV's in these shells, I'll probably be indulging my tonal curiosity soon. Besides putting Dunlop lock buttons on it (remove the neck first!), there's nothing I want to change about it. I confess, it feels good to play a long scale again!

rL6VQE2.jpg
 
Why does the neck need to be removed first? I was just contemplating installing some Dunlops myself...

You don't HAVE to, but it takes a short screwdriver with a fat handle and a narrow shaft to fit the Dunlop screw (which most people, including me, won't have at hand) that will fit between the neck and the bass horn so one can apply the force necessary to drive the screw in. I tried four different screwdrivers, wrapped a cloth around the handle of the best candidate to prevent denting the neck, got the screw most of the way in, and managed to dent the neck. I then removed the neck, snugged the screw, re-installed the neck, dealt with the dents, and wished that I had taken the neck off in the first place. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :D
 
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You don't HAVE to, but it takes a short screwdriver with a fat handle and a narrow shaft to fit the Dunlop screw (which most people, including me, won't have at hand) that will fit between the neck and the bass horn so one can apply the force necessary to drive it in. I tried four different screwdrivers, wrapped a cloth around the handle of the best candidate to prevent denting the neck, got the screw most of the way in, and managed to dent the neck. I then removed the neck, snugged the screw, re-installed the neck, dealt with the dents, and wished that I had taken the neck off in the first place. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :D
Oh - sorry to hear that. Makes sense. I just have a policy of not removing necks unless absolutely necessary. (And so far, that means never!) If they are machine screws, no problem. But wood screws have a finite number of times you can remove and reinstall them, so I try not to use up any of my nine lives if I don't have to. When I installed the Dunlops on all of my other basses, I used this, which made it a very quick and easy job: Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Cordless Lithium-ion 1/4 in. Right Angle Hex Impact Driver Kit-2467-21 - The Home Depot. IIRC, I set the torque clutch on 3 or 4 to make it snug but not overtighten it.
 
I don’t know how the combustion neck connection is made, but my other Dingwalls had fine thread machine screws. They drill and tap the hardwood body. This works better than brass inserts.

Taking the necks off and reinstalling was no problem.

I took the neck off my AB to install Luminlay dots. It was super easy.
 
Of course, after finding out that I can get FDV's in these shells, I'll probably be indulging my tonal curiosity soon.

Can you? I'm getting mixed results in my understanding of what the shop is supporting (or selling), etc. I'd love to get a current rounded end pickups NG2 and make it a 3x with FDVs, but the kits they'll be selling in April are only FD3s. With FDVs not being on the website and Sheldon saying they wouldn't support 3x mods, I figured I'm out of luck. I don't mind toying with it with the help of other modders, assuming I could actually get the pickups, but I'm not getting a clear answer on whether I can.
 
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