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DIY 3015 Cabinet

V63

V63

Sep 13, 2008
171
32
Alberta Canada
#1
Finally started my project based on Eminence's Mid-Sized cab specs.

Here's the box:

ImageUploadedByTalkBass1392827829.322034.jpg
And

ImageUploadedByTalkBass1392827858.093775.jpg

Here's the baffle with the speaker cut-out and the ports in place

Hope to post more as I go along. It will be slow going. Hope this works!
 
#5
After looking at many commercial cabs that were either too big or too heavy, too awkward to carry easily or too wimpy, sounded horrible or too ugly, I was inspired by the DIY threads here on TB to make my own that would sound and look good, with a reasonably sized foot-print and weight.
I know the 1/2" plywood with bracing, front loaded, Duratex cab is popular here but these cabs always looked funny to me. They look too "homemade" and well... How do I put this delicately?
...fugly. IMVHO

I just want something a little more vintage and classy looking. So after talking to BogeyBass in his DIY 2X 15 (the real deal) thread I thought I'd just go ahead with 3/4" and fawn AC30 type of look.
My wood skills are not great so I went with a fairly easy design.
 
#8
brendanbassist said:
I would definitely add bracing on the sides, and probably the top and bottom as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know, more bracing=better, but the space between the front and rear "bracing" is only about 10" so with the 3/4" I hope I can get away with it. Plus the internal volume is set and I don't want the cab any bigger. JohnK_10's streamliner didn't have any extra bracing either. I hope I will be O.K.

P.S. Thanks to all they TB'ers that answered my many many stupid newbie questions.
 
#11
V63 said:
Finally started my project based on Eminence's Mid-Sized cab specs.

Here's the box:

View attachment 394950
And

View attachment 394951

Here's the baffle with the speaker cut-out and the ports in place

Hope to post more as I go along. It will be slow going. Hope this works!
Click to expand...

Nice . One thing you could do if you don't want to add much bracing is to run a brace from the baffle right between the ports and the woofer to the back panel . That would help stiffen up the area where the least amout of wood is . As long as you keep to the specs internal volume and port size and length, keep all the joints airtight and solid and add dampening to all the walls it should sound good .
 
#12
I'm not an expert (though I play one on TalkBass), I think the size of that cabinet with 3/4" plywood doesn't need bracing. I've built a few cabinets that size without any bracing using 3/4" plywood and they came out just fine. Your milage may vary. Just be sure to glue all joints securely and seal up all the seams.
 
#13
Blues Bass 2 said:
Nice . One thing you could do if you don't want to add much bracing is to run a brace from the baffle right between the ports and the woofer to the back panel . That would help stiffen up the area where the least amout of wood is . As long as you keep to the specs internal volume and port size and length, keep all the joints airtight and solid and add dampening to all the walls it should sound good .
Click to expand...

+1

Those cut-outs in the front panel create weakness, and the front panel is where the woofer is mounted, so it is not only the weakest (due to the cut-outs) but will also receive the strongest vibrational energy. You want the woofer to launch its vibrations into the air from as rigid a foundation as you can get without the weight becoming unreasonable. Even thought light weight is one of the goals of my commercial cabs, I almost always double-thick the front panel and always brace it aggressively.
 
#14
DukeLeJeune said:
+1

Those cut-outs in the front panel create weakness, and the front panel is where the woofer is mounted, so it is not only the weakest (due to the cut-outs) but will also receive the strongest vibrational energy. You want the woofer to launch its vibrations into the air from as rigid a foundation as you can get without the weight becoming unreasonable. Even thought light weight is one of my goals in my commercial cabs, I almost always double-thick the front panel and always brace it aggressively.
Click to expand...
This is what my son Henry does for a sealed 3015 cab, He is an ultra aggressive bracer.
His theory is you have saved loads of weight on the Neo magnet driver so don't be basing your 15" bass cabinet design on what works for your girlfriends lightweight Cajon.
cajon-drawing-1.jpg

:spit::bawl::help:
This is a proper cab for men!
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:bassist::D
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Aggressive bracing? Check!:hyper:
 
#15
Bassmec said:
Invalid Link Removed
Click to expand...

Holey interlocking braces, Batman!!

Seriously, that is beautiful. A real artisan DIYer like your son will leave a commercial builder in the (saw)dust because we can't afford the time to do something like that. And most of us (myself included!) never would have thought to do that.

My only nit to pick is, imo the 3015 isn't all that well suited for a sealed cab. Any chance your son might be talkable into adding one or two pluggable ports in the back? If so, PM me the dimensions (outer is okay if you tell me the thicknesses) and I'll fire up my modeling program.
 
#16
He is doing rectangular ports built as the handles which, will be in the sides and angled upward and cut at an angle to increase the cross sectional entry and allow a better grip than if they where at right angles to the sides.
Henry is very smart and full of novel ideas.:D
Like why buy handles to fill holes you just made in the sides if you need a couple of ports?
G127370A.jpg

Like if you cut the inboard end off this, its no longer a nasty cheep handle but its now a small port instead.
He thinks you can put ports anywhere, even on the back if you like.
If you have a pair you would stack them vertically for better dispersion anyway, so nothing will be blocking them.
 
#17
Bassmec said:
He is doing rectangular ports built as the handles which, will be in the sides and angled upward and cut at an angle to increase the cross sectional entry and allow a better grip than if they where at right angles to the sides.
Henry is very smart and full of novel ideas.:D
Like why buy handles to fill holes you just made in the sides if you need a pair of ports?
Click to expand...

Brilliant idea.

I did something like that on a prototype guitar cab once. But I guarantee you is was fugly as all get-out compared to Henry's work.

Tell your son that at least one commercial builder tips his virtual hat to him.
 
#19
These pictures make me ashamed and embarrassed that I started this post. The most I can do at this stage is put a 1" MDF strip along the back of the baffle by taking one off the back panel. This is my first and only build! Does your son want to build me a cab?
Really beautiful.
Puts me to shame.
 
#20
Because I was going for a guitar cab aesthetic I am basically building a sealed and ported guitar cab. That's the only way I could think of doing it! (Let the chiding about physics begin!) I don't know how I could brace from front to back at this point.
Hey Duke,
Your the Man, and since you're here...
If my 4" Precision Ports are 18 mm less then 4 inches from the sides and bottom how much will this lower the tuning?
What gage wire should I use to connect the driver?

Thanks
 

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