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DIY Lightweight Composite Cab Build

#263
asad137 said:
Do you have another cabinet that you can record as a 'reference'? Then we could compare that cab to your DIY cab.

Asad
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Schroeder 1212R, and SWR Son of Berth.

When I get some time, I'd like to characterize my composite cab, as well as the other two, using an SPL meter and a tone generator. This should provide some understanding of frequency response. My primary reason is to compare calculated frequency response to actual. My secondary reason to compare perceived voicing to actual frequency response.

Ultimately I'd like to be able to look at a design data from WinISD and have a better understanding of what the final as-built voicing will be.
 
#264
Petebass said:
Zac I've always used this as an ultimate test for panel vibrations - take the corners off, place the cab on a wooden floor on its longest side, play a song through it that has a heavy kick-drum, then turn it up gradually until it's LOUD. If the cab starts bouncing around or walking across the room, you've got vibrating panels. Crude but effective!
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I like this idea. I'll have to give it a shot when I get some time. Thanks
 
#265
Petebass said:
Zac I've always used this as an ultimate test for panel vibrations - take the corners off, place the cab on a wooden floor on its longest side, play a song through it that has a heavy kick-drum, then turn it up gradually until it's LOUD. If the cab starts bouncing around or walking across the room, you've got vibrating panels. Crude but effective!
Click to expand...

Better off doing this on a solid concrete floor - a non-vibrating cab could have enough acoustic output to set a wooden floor vibrating which could then send the cab walking.

Alex
 
#266
wagdog said:
I'm eagerly awaiting some real world durability results. I have a hard time imagining fiberglass holding up very well to being dropped or kicked or... (insert your favorite equipment horror story).
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I'm not going to toss this cab down a flight of stairs or anything. So don't get your hopes up. After spending 60+ hours experimenting, testing, building, reworking, and building, I'll probably be pretty careful with it. She my composite baby. ;) I'm actually pretty easy on all my gear. I only do about 30-40 gigs a year and it is a mix of clubs, corporate, and wedding gigs. I'm the one hauling my gear, and not some stage hand who takes out his aggression on someones bass cab.

That said, I'm pretty sure this cab will hold up well. The construction method I used is the same one used to build aircraft, race cars, race boats, etc. Light, strong, but expensive. If it can hold my fat a$$ standing on it, I'm sure it's not going to fall apart at a gig.

I'll be sure to report back after a bunch of gigs to let you all know how it is holding up.
 
#267
Given how much the woofer will shake the entire box (especially given it's light weight), I'd suggest some sand or salt or something similar on the top panel of the box. It'd form a geometric pattern with the sand coming to rest at nodes if there were a lot of panel vibration. The box moving won't necessarily be indicative of panel flex.

Then again, I'd expect some panel vibration, it's more of a question of "how does it stack up against conventional cabs?" Still, if you have a bit of dry sand laying around, it'd be an interesting experiment.

KO
 
#268
Great work on the cab.

I built two 115 neo cabs out of 1/2" plywood that is braced.

Each cab only weighs 28 lbs. Yup...a 28 lb. 115 cab. My bass rig is the lightest piece of gear in our band. Add my 10 lb. Superfly and my entire rig (two 115's and the head) weighs a grand total of 66 lbs. with the 28 lb. cabs being the heaviest part.

Everyone should go lightweight. Why haul heavy stuff when you don't have to?

I've been gigging with mine for well over a year and they don't vibrate and move around like some might think because of the lack of weight. Solid, durable and light...and most importantly, I have killer tone.

I'm all for anyone trying to develop lightweight bass gear. Kudos on your project.
 
#269
Ok. Pic time.

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#271
Sundogue said:
Great work on the cab.

I built two 115 neo cabs out of 1/2" plywood that is braced.

Each cab only weighs 28 lbs. Yup...a 28 lb. 115 cab. My bass rig is the lightest piece of gear in our band. Add my 10 lb. Superfly and my entire rig (two 115's and the head) weighs a grand total of 66 lbs. with the 28 lb. cabs being the heaviest part.

Everyone should go lightweight. Why haul heavy stuff when you don't have to?

I've been gigging with mine for well over a year and they don't vibrate and move around like some might think because of the lack of weight. Solid, durable and light...and most importantly, I have killer tone.

I'm all for anyone trying to develop lightweight bass gear. Kudos on your project.
Click to expand...

I read your thread about those 15"s. Very cool. I'm glad they work for you. I'd like to do a 15"+6" with a 3015LF someday soon.
 
#272
Nicely done! Good job on the carpeting - I'm in the process of putting on the textured duratex type finish on mine. Slightly longwinded but less fiddly.

Something that is often forgotten about lightweight cabs is they get bashed around less because they're easier to carry. Also I think people would be surprised at quite how wobbly the panels of a OSB or even 3/4" ply cab can be.

Alex

P.S. Did you consider putting the handle on the side instead? I find cabs are easier to carry like that.
 
#276
alexclaber said:
Nicely done! Good job on the carpeting - I'm in the process of putting on the textured duratex type finish on mine. Slightly longwinded but less fiddly.

Something that is often forgotten about lightweight cabs is they get bashed around less because they're easier to carry. Also I think people would be surprised at quite how wobbly the panels of a OSB or even 3/4" ply cab can be.

Alex

P.S. Did you consider putting the handle on the side instead? I find cabs are easier to carry like that.
Click to expand...


I agree about the cab getting bashed less because it is so light. It never gets the momentum that a 75lbs cab gets when you're moving it around.

I did think about putting a handle on the side of the cab. I only had one handle though, and I like having one on the top for positioning on stage and things like that. I agree though, for carrying it would be better to have one on the side. It is easy enough to install one. I'll probable pick one up with my next PartsExpress order.
 
#278
Ok, now about that cost analysis.

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It that enough detail for you?

I spent way more than 45 hours on this build, but I should be able to get it down to that now that I don't need to do as much testing and experimenting. I learned a TON on this one, and can't wait to build another. It is addictive.

I didn't include any costs for tools and building related supplies, but they are a real part of the cost. Things like nitrile gloves, dust masks, goggles, brushes, scrapers, razor blades, heat gun, mixing cups, mixing sticks, sand paper, palm sander, acetone, MEK, wax paper, plastic wrap, packaging tape, duct tape, 3M 77 spray adhesive, wire, solder, flux, hot melt glue, etc.

I also didn't include any shipping charges for all the material. Tack on another $50 at least.
 
#280
Cost for building related supplies would probably add around $100.
Reusable tools: Heat gun, hot glue gun, and palm sander - cheapo stuff would add about another $100.
Total of about $722.
With (cheap) labor: $60 hours x $10 = $600.
Total: $1,322

YMMV.
 

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