• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

DIY: Making Short Scale Strings out of Long Scale Strings

With the limited options for short scale strings, especially for short scale 5 string sets for a short scale Low B, I’ve just recently figured out a way how to make my own short scale string out of a long scale.

I have only tried this on a .130 B string, but it seems like it will work for tapered springs in general. I also cannot speak for any long term results with this method, as this is my first time trying it myself and it worked out well for me on my miKro.

I used the following commonly available materials and household tools:
  1. Heat-Shrink Tubing
  2. Pliers
  3. Sharpie
  4. Super Glue
  5. Wire Cutters
Step 1: Measure and Mark
The first thing you want to do is measure your new long scale string against your existing short scale string that you are replacing. Mark where the taper is supposed to begin. Measure and cut out the length of heat-shrink tubing you want for your taper. You want to use the smallest diameter tube that will still allow you to slip over the thickest part of the string.

Step 2: Glue, Unwind, Trim
To make things easier later, slide the heat-shrink tube over the string before you proceed. Place just a small bead of super glue on the thick side of the string where you will start the taper. Gently dab away any excess.
Securely anchoring the ball end of the string will help make the next step easier.

At the very end of the string, begin unwinding with the small winding around the core. It may be a little difficult at first, but once you get a few inches unwound, you should be able to quickly unwind it by pulling straight back in line with the string.
As you are unwinding, you will see another inner layer of winding if you are doing this on a .130 string. Leave this alone for now. Keep pulling away and slow down when you get close to your taper mark. Unwind until you are just short of where you applied the super glue. Trim the excess winding and tuck the end neatly against the string so it’s not sticking out.

Step 3: Glue, Unwind, and Trim Next Layer
If you are working on a similary built string with three windings, you will want to repeat the process again with the inner winding that you uncovered from Step 2. Super glue the newly exposed winding at the point where you cut the outermost winding, then resume unwinding from the core end. You will eventually uncover the innermost layer, which you will also leave alone for this step. Keep going, just like in Step 2, stop before the point where you placed your applied the super glue. Cut the excess winding and tuck the end against the string.

Step 4: Position and Shrink the Tube
Position the heat shrink tube over your new taper, and shrink it with heat. I used a butane soldering iron with the tip removed, but you can use a candle or a lighter if you are careful not to burn your string or yourself.

Step 5: Install
Congratulations! You just made yourself a short scale string. Go ahead and install it like you would any other string.

I’m not entirely sure if super glue is the best adhesive for this application, or if it even works, but intuitively I wanted to use an adhesive that could flow between the windings in combination with the heat-shrink to keep the taper as secure as practical. If there is a better adhesive, or if it’s even necessary, please share.
 
Last edited:
Very nice write up.


How do the string manufactures secure the windings? I know it’s not with adhesive.

When I unwound the string, I didn't notice any kind of adhesive underneath. I suppose strings that come with silk ends use the silk to secure the windings?

Would something similar work with flats and/or tapes? I'd love to have more string options available for my short scale.

That would be interesting to see if someone could try it. I switched back from flats to rounds after my last recital, and I don't see myself going back flats anytime soon.

Purple ball end... D'Addario XL Nickel, I presume...?

I'm surprised a big company like D'Addario doesn't offer 5-string sets in short scale.

I don't know, it was an old string that came off my son's Squire Jazz Bass, which came with the bass when he bought it used from Guitar Center last year. It still sounded great compared to the string I replaced on my miKro.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jettbass
I tried this again with an Ernie Ball 130, and it looked like there was adhesive used in between the windings.


This time, I tried it using two pieces of clear heat shrink- one sized for the outer winding, and one sized for the inner winding.

When I tried to wipe away the adhesive before installing, I inadvertently pushed out the winding around the core and made a mini slinky. Apparently, the core is floating inside the windings, so don't do what I did. In fact, I recommend putting a 90 degree bend at the end of the string when you uncover the innermost winding. That should help keep it intact for the install.

I went ahead an put the string on my miKro anyway to see what how it will hold up.

 
Would something similar work with flats and/or tapes? I'd love to have more string options available for my short scale.

Tapes are a definite no. The nylon tape is being held both by a knot at the end of the string and the silk winding that's over it. Once you clip the full diameter of the string, the nylon will quickly come unraveled.

Same with flats. It's a flat ribbon wire that is laid down, and is anchored in the "twist" at the end of the string, and then covered with the silk winding. In this case, you don't "need" the silk winding like you do the tapewounds. It's more to cover up how gnarly the flatwire looks.


How do the string manufactures secure the windings? I know it’s not with adhesive.

If it's on a hex core, the shape of the core wire itself anchors the strings, as long as you're pulling the first cover enough to "lock" it in. The subsequent covers all lay down in such a way to secure the ones under them.

If it's a round core, you have to either anchor them at the end of the string (like DR does), or you run an ever-so-slight swage on the length of the core wire to give the cover wire something to grab onto.


When I unwound the string, I didn't notice any kind of adhesive underneath. I suppose strings that come with silk ends use the silk to secure the windings?

Nope. Silk ends on strings are largely cosmetic at this point.
 
Purple ball end... D'Addario XL Nickel, I presume...?

I'm surprised a big company like D'Addario doesn't offer 5-string sets in short scale.

D'Addario recently discontinued their 4-string ProSteel stainless steel roundwound string sets in both short and medium scale lengths, so I'm not surprised that they're not expanding their short scale product lines, although, like you, I have no idea why.
 
upload_2022-3-21_10-45-30.png


Why doesn't any company that make short scale basses (or any bass for that matter) make a bridge that doesn't rely on a ball end but that enables you to clamp down a string on the desired length? Not that difficult. If this were a common thing we would only need one string size altogether.
(I didn't remove the ball ends in the picture for convenience :-) )
 
  • Like
Reactions: Iristone and GregT
View attachment 4629245

Why doesn't any company that make short scale basses (or any bass for that matter) make a bridge that doesn't rely on a ball end but that enables you to clamp down a string on the desired length? Not that difficult. If this were a common thing we would only need one string size altogether.
(I didn't remove the ball ends in the picture for convenience :) )

It's an interesting thought, but the concern I see is how you'd be able to properly wind the string around the tuner AND pull it tight to lock the string at the bridge. And even then, how do you trim the string off after it's installed (unless you do that first)?
 
It's an interesting thought, but the concern I see is how you'd be able to properly wind the string around the tuner AND pull it tight to lock the string at the bridge. And even then, how do you trim the string off after it's installed (unless you do that first)?
How about using a small pipe or tubing compression fitting, clamp it to the E string or B string a couple of inches up if you have a 32-inch scale bass, etc.? Since the A string and D string tuners will probably be far enough up the headstock it doesn't matter, and since you can wind a G string around anything, that might be a solution. I also put a piece of 4mm id/6mm od steel tubing on the string in between the bridge and the string ball to get the extra winding length accommodated that way as well.
20210502_173230.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bermuda Ron
It's an interesting thought, but the concern I see is how you'd be able to properly wind the string around the tuner AND pull it tight to lock the string at the bridge. And even then, how do you trim the string off after it's installed (unless you do that first)?
First determine at the nut end how much of the winding you want to go over the nut. Then temporarily clamp at the bridge. Cut to length at the tuning post end and start the first few winds. Then before tuning to pitch, in order to eliminate possible twist, release the clamp and relax the string. Then clamp down again and tune up. Finally cut off excess string behind the bridge. I could imagine myself doing this.
 
It's an interesting thought, but the concern I see is how you'd be able to properly wind the string around the tuner AND pull it tight to lock the string at the bridge. And even then, how do you trim the string off after it's installed (unless you do that first)?
Determining where to cut the string is easy before installing the string. At both ends.

Here’s what I envision… The bridge has a channel on the end and set screws as in Joybass’ mock-up. Bend string 90 degs. Cut string 1/4” after bend. Feed string through. Bent part sits in the end channel. Set screw secures string. Done.

It could even be quick load if you make a slot for the string to go down into and cant over the set screws maybe 45 degs.

The rear channel hides cut ends for a clean look and safety.

- John

BTW, when I string Floyd Rose (or similar) equipped guitars, I pull the string through the tuner such that the ball end is at the tuner. Then cut the string and lock it in the bridge. But that won’t work with bass strings.
 
Last edited:
It's an interesting thought, but the concern I see is how you'd be able to properly wind the string around the tuner AND pull it tight to lock the string at the bridge. And even then, how do you trim the string off after it's installed (unless you do that first)?

How about just using a headless bass?
Ball ends? Check.
Universal (or any desired) string length? Check.
Locking beyond the nut? Check.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GregT and Funky40
How about just using a headless bass?
Ball ends? Check.
Universal (or any desired) string length? Check.
Locking beyond the nut? Check.
Can't hang every headless bass on a wall hanger? Check.
Can't put a headless bass on every guitar stand? Check
Hard to find cost-effective headless bass that suits someone's tonal needs or visual aesthetic? Check.