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DNA Replacement 10" Driver

I have a DNA DNS 110 cab that needs a replacement driver. The speaker cone does not move when physically pressed upon. (Locked in place). If I can't find an OEM replacement, are there any recommendations for a quality 10" driver? I've done some searching here and am aware of speaker modeling software. Maybe someone has already done the math and could help me out. Much thanks in advance. Ryan
 
Thank you @agedhorse, I sent Rip a message. There are no identifying marks on the driver, so that makes it difficult...Thank you everyone for responding so quickly, I really appreciate it.
I looked inside of my DNS112 briefly, when the tech had it opened up for repair. I didn’t see any markings on the driver and it made me wonder if they were proprietary to DNA.
By the way, I reached out to DNA (late, past summer) before I discovered the(bead droplet of glue) issue but didn’t have any luck with a response. @Rip Van Dan also, made some efforts on my behalf which I’m grateful for, but it seems all operations had ceased by then.
My mind was going through a similar scenario of possibly having to replace the driver and my first choice to look for a good match was Faital.

edit: Tip for the day; the more small/easy jobs you take to your tech, the more likely it will be that they cut you a break when things go Bad bad.
 
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Wondering if a good speaker repair shop can repair what you have? I would think in much the same way a photo of a headstock on TB produces the EXACT make / model / year / features of a given bass, a good speaker guy / gal may be able to accurately ID the speaker by physical features and know if suitable rebuild parts are available. IIRC Speaker Repair Pros is one of the old Orange County Speaker employees. No affiliation but might be worth a phone call or e-mail.
 
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The maker's web page is still up, and gives the dimensions and port tuning. Size: 12 x 21 x 15 inches, port 49 Hz.

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Assume 3/4 inch panel thickness, and a 1 inch baffle setback, internal dimensions are 10.5 x 19.5 x 12.5 = 2560 in^3 = 42 liters. Knock off a couple liters for internal guts, 40 liters.

When you find a candidate driver, knock the box volume up and down to see how accurate you think it actually needs to be. Most designs are pretty forgiving once you get past the basic question of, can this work at all?

Naturally this exercise has all of the pro's and con's of DIY speaker design. It's great when it works on the first try, otherwise it can turn into a money pit.
 
Wondering if a good speaker repair shop can repair what you have? I would think in much the same way a photo of a headstock on TB produces the EXACT make / model / year / features of a given bass, a good speaker guy / gal may be able to accurately ID the speaker by physical features and know if suitable rebuild parts are available. IIRC Speaker Repair Pros is one of the old Orange County Speaker employees. No affiliation but might be worth a phone call or e-mail.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way. There are hundreds of soft parts that look identical, fit mechanically yet are nowhere near the same performance as the original part. In many cases not even close.
 
@Rip Van Dan is helping me out with contacting Mr. Nordscow. Hopefully he has a suggestion for a suitable replacement as OEM might be out of the picture. I've been looking at FaitalPro and they have many options. I don't even know where to start in choosing the right parameters. I'm not too concerned about the weight of the driver as it's only a 110 cabinet. I own 2 DNS 410's and bought the 110 to have a similar tone for home practice. Thank you everyone, I really appreciate your help. Ryan
 
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DNA hasn’t been in business for awhile.
David announced closing the business in January 2023. Lack of parts killed what ended up as basically a one-man business. Back in April of 2021 when I ordered my DNA-800 through my artist rep, there were no completed ones available. They were waiting on parts. David had enough parts on-hand to build one for me so he did, but those expected parts never arrived to complete the amps at his factory. A couple of companies that supplied some proprietary parts for his amps and cabs went out of business during Covid and that did him in. Nobody else made them.
 
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I've ran non-OEM drivers in some of my cabs. As long as they spec out to the cab dimensions and port size they should work. I pulled the ceramic drivers out of my Epifani Series 3 UL210 and replaced with neos. Epifani only had their DIST drivers and I didn't want them. I found some B&C neos that speced out to the cab dimensions and porting. They work great and sound way better than the stock ceramics. They also have a higher wattage rating.
 
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