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If the OP is specifically buying basses based on their resale value over virtually any other criteria, then surely he knows that carving a big hole into a bass will ding the value. I question the motivation of this thread.
I should clarify that I've always built Fender clone basses (Precisions, to be specific). I suspect it's much easier to find necks that fit the Fender neck pocket than the G&L. (I just read that they're different in significant ways.)
Ask the manufacturer if the compartment is original.
A hard lump, not flush with the surface, would be a deal breaker for some. Why they located it where they did and why it isn't flush mounted is beyond me.
I would say, yes it would devalue the instrument.
A hard lump, not flush with the surface, would be a deal breaker for some. Why they located it where they did and why it isn't flush mounted is beyond me.
I would say, yes it would devalue the instrument.
If you would read all the posts you would find the answer. But again ill tell you.the motivation is. Is this bass with the mod worth paying $800 for? I don't want to pay more then it's worth.
I guess I have my answer then. Its not worth the $800 he wants for it. I'll wait for another one to pop up without the mod and keep my G&L for now. Thanks
Above entry-level price points, modifications of any sort no matter how overtly beneficial will tend to reduce the bass's resale value. Even if you've literally only made the instrument better, the market will tend to assume you basically just damaged it.
It seems unreasonable, but instruments are expensive and therefore expected to have a measure of professional quality control. When you have no idea who produced the modification in question, you're gambling a lot of money on whether or not the stranger knew exactly what they were doing.
That is to say, a change doesn't unconditionally make an instrument better or worse, but it does make it a risk, and that must be considered.
--^@
It seems unreasonable, but instruments are expensive and therefore expected to have a measure of professional quality control. When you have no idea who produced the modification in question, you're gambling a lot of money on whether or not the stranger knew exactly what they were doing.
That is to say, a change doesn't unconditionally make an instrument better or worse, but it does make it a risk, and that must be considered.
--^@
a usa g&l neck is in excess of 500 from the factory and If you have to sell a mint skyline in a pinch gc and sam ash will only give you about 250 for one
Understood.
My point was that putting one together with Warmoth parts costs almost as much as an American Fender used to cost. I think they're a bit more nowadays, but Warmoth parts ain't cheap (especially if you have them finish them).
Some folks use AllParts bodies and necks, which are a fair bit cheaper. I know a guy who puts together a very nice bass for $450-600 if you aren't picky about the Fender logo on the headstock.
Page looks legit but it's clearance necks, not something you can depend on to always be available and you can only pick from what's available. I would imagine $500 would be more realistic for a G&L neck from regular stock, or made to a buyers specifications.
In my experience collecting, any irreversible mod will devalue a bass if that bass is relatively sought after in stock condition.
The most obvious examples are all those 70s fenders out there that were routed to add a j pickup. Swapping all the tuners and electronics is just gravy in terms of squandering value.
I am not sure there are any irreversible mods that would increase the value of the bass. There may be some where they don't reduce the value of the bass as compared to stock but you probably aren't getting the money back for your mods either. Think about the cost of having a pro route a battery and a J pickup into a MIM P bass. Then think about the cost of new P/J pickups and a decent preamp.
Add those costs to the cost of a used MIM bass. So figure:
-Used MIM Bass $300
-Pro Routing Job and battery install- $45
-Battery Box - $12
-P/J PU set - $150
-Preamp- $150
Total - $657
I can guarantee you that unless you find some bassist out there who wants exactly what you have created, and in that color, your bass will not be worth anywhere near what you have in it.
So best to stick with reversible mods and keep all original parts. Best case you can sell everything for close to your costs. Worst case, you can put the bass back to stock and either keep the upgrade parts for a future project, or sell them separately.
The most obvious examples are all those 70s fenders out there that were routed to add a j pickup. Swapping all the tuners and electronics is just gravy in terms of squandering value.
I am not sure there are any irreversible mods that would increase the value of the bass. There may be some where they don't reduce the value of the bass as compared to stock but you probably aren't getting the money back for your mods either. Think about the cost of having a pro route a battery and a J pickup into a MIM P bass. Then think about the cost of new P/J pickups and a decent preamp.
Add those costs to the cost of a used MIM bass. So figure:
-Used MIM Bass $300
-Pro Routing Job and battery install- $45
-Battery Box - $12
-P/J PU set - $150
-Preamp- $150
Total - $657
I can guarantee you that unless you find some bassist out there who wants exactly what you have created, and in that color, your bass will not be worth anywhere near what you have in it.
So best to stick with reversible mods and keep all original parts. Best case you can sell everything for close to your costs. Worst case, you can put the bass back to stock and either keep the upgrade parts for a future project, or sell them separately.
Typically, I like Warmoth bodies and resale Fender Japan necks. I like the vintage radius feel on their necks. I can usually find the neck for about $400, and then get an existing body for say $300 (a new finished body cost me a bit over $400).
I made myself a nice mocha Pbass this way. The vintage mocha Pbass bodies were going for $700 and up (and weigh a ton) so I got Warmoth to make me a nice swamp ash with brown transparent finish for about $400.
It's not a G & L hosted site, it's myshopify.com. I think G & L is glguitars.com. I would conclude it's fake. Sorry if someone has this issue covered.
I'd reach out to them on Facebook, mine was fully setup and it has a custom fingerboard, graphite nut, and the 3 bolt holes. That one may be cheaper because of that dark line on it, they're pretty picky about things.
Yeah, most mods devalue the bass, unless it's some super common, lightweight mod like upgrading to some boutique pickups or something.
Adding a battery box to a P-bass is a tricky one as most people value those basses for their simplicity and passive nature.
Adding it to a Jazz bass or something with a suitable preamp might make the thing worth more.
Hard to say for sure. Some people would like the fact a battery box is there as they may intend to add a preamp anyway. However that improves sellability to a certain crowd rather than the resale value I'd say.
If you're the seller, then no. If you're the buyer, then yes.
The battery box install looks amateurish to me. Appears to be crooked.
The battery box install looks amateurish to me. Appears to be crooked.
