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I have a couple active basses with 18v preamps that put out a *really* hot signal. It usually enough to just either roll off some input gain at the amp or dial back the master volume on the bass itself.
They still sound a little hairy on my trusty old Mesa Walkabout, so I just use the pad on them.
Not doubting that your basses produce a hot signal, but it has nothing to do with them being 18v. Increasing voltage does not increase output, it only increases head room
Increasing the supply voltage can certainly result in an increased output voltage if the design utilizes it as such.Not doubting that your basses produce a hot signal, but it has nothing to do with them being 18v. Increasing voltage does not increase output, it only increases head room
Thanks for clarification. The only reason I included that 18v comment was because those two basses (Turner Electrolines) are the only ones I ever pad down. There's a way to trim the output internally, but I don't mess around in there too much.![]()
Increasing the supply voltage can certainly result in an increased output voltage if the design utilizes it as such.
Most are, and many of these also have an output level control or a loop gain control for better matching of the electronics to the pickups and the load.I have yet to come across an on board preamp that was designed in such a way.
Most are, and many of these also have an output level control or a loop gain control for better matching of the electronics to the pickups and the load.
If you JUST increase the supply voltage then it won't increase the output voltage, but that's just one parameter in isolation. Other parameters come into play within a design, and these parameters take advantage of the increased supply voltage to result in an increase output voltage. I think you are confusing or missing the gain term of the overall output level equation.You know more about it than I do, so I would be a fool to argue with you. But I have used Aggie, Bart, Duncan, EMG and Kent Armstrong Preamps so far and have never come across the situation when output was increased with voltage.
If you JUST increase the supply voltage then it won't increase the output voltage, but that's just one parameter in isolation. Other parameters come into play within a design, and these parameters take advantage of the increased supply voltage to result in an increase output voltage. I think you are confusing or missing the gain term of the overall output level equation.
Let's look at it another way. Say you have a pickup with an output voltage of 0.2 volt (RMS for all measurement) for a "standard pluck 'o the string", and a closed loop voltage gain of 20dB. This will result in an output level of 2 volt RMS or 5.6 volts peak-peak. Now, say the closed loop gain is 26 dB, the resulting voltage would try to be 11.2 volts peak-peak, which is beyond the capabilities of a single 9 volt supply. By using an 18 volt supply, the output voltage would be in fact 11.2 volts, higher than in the 9 volt scenario.
This is one factor when considering the design of active electronics, balancing the gain and operating (playing) dynamics within the available dynamics window of the electronics. In general, you will see some increased gain capability when using a dedicated higher voltage design, which is also why you see output level trims on the electronics and even one reason input pads are included on many bass amps.
One minor disadvantage of higher voltage amps is a possibly slight increase in noise floor, though with higher signal levels this would probably be negated. More is not always better.
I depress the button so the amp doesn't scream if the knobs twist in transit. It also makes volume adjustment inside my apartment easier and I don't have to worry about suddenly rocking my floor. I don't use it for anything else.My understanding is it's supposed to be used for Active Basses; at least that's how it's advertised. Any thoughts about that in TB Land?
Maybe a little of both, because in the big picture none of this exists without considering all of the other factors. Just increasing the supply voltage without any other changes, and assuming that the signal wasn't clipping with 9 volts would result in increased headroom. As soon at that headroom is actually used (with increased gain or harder playing) then it's no longer headroom but serves to increase the output voltage.I thought that what you were describing was basically headroom. When the voltage tried to be 11.2v it would drive the 9v preamp into clipping where the 18v would stay clean. Am I wrong in my terminology, or am I just oversimplifying?
Maybe a little of both, because in the big picture none of this exists without considering all of the other factors. Just increasing the supply voltage without any other changes, and assuming that the signal wasn't clipping with 9 volts would result in increased headroom. As soon at that headroom is actually used (with increased gain or harder playing) then it's no longer headroom but serves to increase the output voltage.
This is not a simple concept, even though it might appear to be on the surface. In fact, balancing these variables within a design takes a lot of time and understanding of all input and output parameters. For example, the output level will change with the position of the pickups, so the electronics must be designed with the range of levels in mind rather than a single level.
Thank you for the information.
For home use, I use an Ampeg BA-210v2 with a Fender Elite Jazz and a Kubicki. Both basses are 18v with active/passive switch. I engage the -15db switch when using active and disengaged in passive mode. If I don't use the -15db while in active the volume is way too sensitive and I can only go up to 2-3 on the volume before it gets too loud. So I have more volume adjustment/range if I use the -15db.
+1Never have used it, never will. Tends to be more of a tone suck than anything else IMO/IME.