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Double Bass Dominants Breaking?

#41
Dr Rod said:
I also remember one guy putting a rag over the bridge to protect it, and wacking with a hammer right between the D and A strings. I am not advising you or anyone to do this, just FYI.
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I've seen jokes about that here, I didn't think anyone actually did it. :eek: I do the same as jmpiwonka...If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.

gomez
 
#42
Dr Rod said:
Any fiddling with dominants is a cause for risk. Sorry but that's the truth.

I have seen respected luthiers do the Karate move, I would loosen up the strings a bit and lubricate. But again, this is only speculation on my part.
Click to expand...

Thanks :) That was the strategy, and it's worked out okay. I was only panicking a bit because I was under the impression that detuning was a no no. 'Slowly' was the operative word I suppose.
jmpiwonka said:
i noticed if i have some graphite or something in the slots of hte bridge to lubricate i can just give the bridge a good push and it will move, even with the strings fully up to pitch
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Yup. When I first got this bass I was convinced someone had glued the bridge down, cos it never budged under tension (with red spiros.) Even replacing those, one at a time, the bridge stayed put. I've been amazed at how much the bridge WILL move with a bit of graphite in the slots.

airbass said:
I think it was a bump in transit that caused the bridge to shift.
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I think it was the same in my case.

gomez hacienda said:
If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.
Click to expand...

This kind of advice is really useful, because when someone says 'push your bridge back into place' or something simillar, my first reaction is always 'okay, but how hard should I expect to push?'

Thanks all, hope I didn't derail the thread too much. You never know, perhaps one of these suckers will snap and I can join the party!

Tom
 
#43
gomez hacienda said:
If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.

gomez
Click to expand...

I usually do this too.

What some people claim is that this is actually imparts more strain than the quick blow. Like pulling a hair slowly. I have no proof for or against one of these methods, I am just sharing what I have heard.
 
#44
Dr Rod said:
I usually do this too.

What some people claim is that this is actually imparts more strain than the quick blow. Like pulling a hair slowly. I have no proof for or against one of these methods, I am just sharing what I have heard.
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If they're talking about strain to the bridge, my normal adjustment after changing strings is very minor. I doubt if the bridge moves more than 1/8" or so. It slides quite easily with the graphite. There might be a concern with certain strings if they have delicate windings, doesn't apply tho in my case. It might be OK to tap the bridge if you had a small rubber hammer. Like the ones Dr.s tap your knee with...:hmm:

gomez
 
#45
Hey Dominant players...

First off, I appreciate everyone's feeback and patience. Thomastik-Infeld is currently looking into the issue and there should be a solution soon, but first we need some information.

For everyone currently playing or considering trying the Dominants, please take two measurements on your instrument for me:

1) Distance from bridge to nut (vibrating length)
2) Distance from the ball-end of the string (in the tailpiece) to the peg on your E string.

Also, let me know what size bass you have (3/4, 7/8, etc). You can PM me or email your specs to [email protected].
 
#47
You have a PM from me too :)
I'm enjoying these strings so far, guys. I didn't initially perceive anything that would make me like them BETTER than my spiros, they were just different - more detailed perhaps, a more papery (!) 'interesting' attack, but in a mix with other instruments they seem to come alive, with a real 'personality' behind every note. Very nice indeed.
 
#49
All, I just emailed this to Mike, but thought I'd post it since I know there are others like me. BTW, doms sound great on my bass; the upper register is fantastic with harmonics being true and stable all over. I play mostly arco in the orchestra setting. My piano accompanist transposes down a step for stuff that I only have in solo tuning.

=============

Hi Mike, my dom A-string broke this morning after less than a week. Quinn Violins is replacing it. My situation is that I have a Robertson C-extension which uses the customary A-string peg to receive the long C-string thru a hole in the top of the scroll. Which means that my A-string winds around the "E peg". I'm using a pirastro perm long C and am trying TI dom G,D,A for the first time.

Bass size is 3/4, setup by Robertsons, then later added their C-extension.

Here are my A-string measurement (you asked for E-string measurements):
1) Distance from bridge to nut (vibrating length)
42" vibe length.

2) Distance from the ball-end of the string (in the tailpiece) to the peg on your E string.
I have a Pecanic TP which barely keeps the A-string silver outer wrap from rolling up on the peg. Here are the measurements from where the A-string exits the top of my TP going north to the tuning peg I use for the A-string.

a) TP exit to bridge bend = 9 inches.
b) vibe length = 42"
c) nut thickness = 3/4"
d) top of nut to bottom of peg = 2 1/8" The peg I use for my A-string is the lowest one in the peg box -- the one most players use for their E-string.

Even though I have a replacement A-string coming from Quinn, I fear that it's doomed to break since it winds up dangerously close to the silver.

Can you give any advice on how to install my A-string in my configuration? Also, is there a long-C dom for the C-extension?

Thanks, Mark
 
#50
I've been loving my Dominant G, D, and A, and finally decided to get the E to replace my D'Addario Pizz. Picked one up at Shar (down the street), and it broke while tuning up, despite all the usual precautions (graphite, vaseline, tuning up over the course of an hour or more). Hmmm. Went back, got another, and it broke, too. Great. Went back and got a Flexocor, which I'm so far not terribly happy with, but at least it didn't break!

The problem seems to be that the Doms have not nearly enough silk wrapping for their length, given that if the metal winds around the tuning shank they seem sure to break. The Flexocor actually has much less wrapping, but the metal wound around the shank shows no sign of damage, and it tuned up nice and quick.

Too bad--I love both arco and pizz with the Doms, but life is too short for a string that wants to break so badly. Time will tell if the Flexocor E is a good match, and I'll just hope my other Dom strings hold up okay.

EDIT: ThomastikMike, you wanted measurements, so here they are: a hair over 41 inches vibrating length, and about 49.5 inches from ball to the E-string peg. I'll also PM you with these.
 
#51
IMHO Thomastik Infeld should really think about reformulating these great strings in order to make them more durable.

I have personally never had them break since using extreme caution and lubes etc...but we shouldn't have to go through all this in the 21st century.

My wife is a violinist and a long time Dominant user. She has never had a Dominant violin string break.
 
#52
Took a while to get my solo doms, but they're on now (day 2). Sounded & felt very much like Weichs in the short time that I had them in normal tuning (I've just taken Weichs off). I couldn't resist the solo tuning (for which they were designed) and they are lovely under the bow. Since I am working on my arco repertoire at present (I used to do a lot of jazz gigs), this is the way they'll stay. They're nice and loud at present.
Richard
 
#55
I will soon be trying Dominant G, D and A and with an extension on my bass, the A still will be on the lower tune. Am I nervous about this breakage issue? Hell yeah.

It occurs to me that if you install the string and it does end up with metal on the tuner that perhaps putting some kind of tape or thin cloth around that part of the string may help. I'm not sure what could specifically be used though. The string length on my bass is 42" so I'm hoping that I won't have this problem.
 
#56
Adrian Cho said:
It occurs to me that if you install the string and it does end up with metal on the tuner that perhaps putting some kind of tape or thin cloth around that part of the string may help. I'm not sure what could specifically be used though. The string length on my bass is 42" so I'm hoping that I won't have this problem.
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Well the problem with that is that the strings were on my bass in the ideal position: Silk past the nut but not far enough so that you had metal windings on the peg.

I def like the sound of the Doms but I wish the were just a touch darker. In my frustration yesterday I ordered some FCS D & G strings just to try something else more reliable and hopefully get the sound I want. I'm kinda like DURRL now in that I'm kinda married to the Spiro Stark E, and maybe A. But if this setup doesn't work out I'm going gut with one of your recommended setups: Gamut G & D and either Spiro Mittle E & A or Helicore Hybrid E & A.

Anyways, good luck with the Doms. I think it's hit or miss at this rate. Seems like the D & E strings are the weakest in the set.
 
#58
Pirastro Flatchromesteel. If you're looking for something darker than Dominants, hdiddy, FCS strings are pretty far in the wrong direction. I had FCS E and A with Obli D and G on my bass before I switched to a full set of Dominants a few weeks ago, they are bright as a mofo. The Dominants are bright to the point of obnoxious and brittle when you first put them on, but they mellow like crazy given some playing time. Can't say enough for the tone.

That said...if you're looking for something that bows, the Pirastro FCS strings bow really nicely -- not as nice as the Doms, but still quite nice.
 
#59
hdiddy said:
I think it's hit or miss at this rate. Seems like the D & E strings are the weakest in the set.
Click to expand...

I dunno. I've had one set on for 18 months and only broke the E, which had been frequently detuned, and have had another set on my second bass for about 6 months with no issues. I just decided to think of them as twice as expensive as they really are and buy a second set as a backup...haven't needed it yet though.
 
#60
Aaron Saunders said:
Pirastro Flatchromesteel. If you're looking for something darker than Dominants, hdiddy, FCS strings are pretty far in the wrong direction. I had FCS E and A with Obli D and G on my bass before I switched to a full set of Dominants a few weeks ago, they are bright as a mofo. The Dominants are bright to the point of obnoxious and brittle when you first put them on, but they mellow like crazy given some playing time. Can't say enough for the tone.

That said...if you're looking for something that bows, the Pirastro FCS strings bow really nicely -- not as nice as the Doms, but still quite nice.
Click to expand...


Darker than Dominant?
Bows nice?

I'd have to say it sounds like you might want to try the new Belcantos. I love them on my bass so far.
 

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