• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Czech - Jolana DiscoBass & Kolorbass -

Confirmed that the nail-punch/dab of white paint side markers are from the Jolana factory as all examples I've seen have them. So... my favorite Dano inspired aluminum side dots to the rescue. I've converted a few of my personal basses with this mod and appreciate it every time I play them. Once installed and polished they catch any available light making seeing them easy.

upload_2021-9-10_10-45-46.jpeg
 
Once installed and polished they catch any available light making seeing them easy.
Do you seal them with any type of cleat coat so they don't skin over with oxidation?
I did a test piece of Wenge with 10 ga solid copper wire and got a similar result. It really catches the light and looks good, but I'm wondering if I should seal it to keep it clean.
I'm also wondering if putting a layer of clear over it might negatively affect the way it stands out and reflects light.
 
Do you seal them with any type of cleat coat so they don't skin over with oxidation?
I did a test piece of Wenge with 10 ga solid copper wire and got a similar result. It really catches the light and looks good, but I'm wondering if I should seal it to keep it clean.
I'm also wondering if putting a layer of clear over it might negatively affect the way it stands out and reflects light.

I don't usually seal them and they have not shown any oxidation. If they did, I could easily use a (brown) fiber pad to polish them - the same pad I rub the neck to satin once it gets too shiny from use. But, they could be easily sealed with a light spray-coat of clear lacquer. I may do that since the neck is off the body - I have installed them on an assembled bass.. You could also use clear nail-polish which can be dabbed onto each dot.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RichterScale
They come up now and then.

I regularly watch the Polish equivalents of eBay and Craig's List and there's always some representation of the Jolana basses there. Usually the Discos, Galaxis and the quasi-Telecaster (guitar) looking ones. Less frequent the Kolor Basses and the sort of P-Bass ones which have bodies that remind me of butcher block. There's a Les Paul (solidbody) type bass too. They're usually all pretty cheap - about $150-$200 though most are in project condition. I believe those are all 70's-80's - the 60's ones are less frequent and more expensive (comparatively). There's a Disco bass up now but has replacement black Y pegs, repaired pickguard (I think - it has a metal piece around the knobs and jack) and the usual stickers. If one waits cleaner examples show up.
 
Last edited:
I bought a 1/8" (3.18mm) aluminum rod (12" long) from a hardware store (could also buy it at a hobby/craft store) and drill a 1/8" hole/channel in a small flat piece of wood. I push the rod through the hole until a small section pops out and use a fine-toothed saw to cut off a small disc. Do this where you can find the disc if it falls to the ground as it is small and disappears easily. I use small fine files to burnish the top side and remove burrs at the cut edges. Then I drill a 1/8" hole in the fb side after using an etching needle (or awl) to create a center indent for the drill bit to center on. I drill the same depth as the disc and drip a dab of super-glue in the hole. Then I carefully position the disc over the hole and use a small finishing hammer to tap it in mostly level. (can rise a bit above) I then use the files to carefully level the disc with the fb side and once flush - burnish it with emery-cloth until shiny. It's fussy work and takes patience but the result is worth it.

upload_2021-9-11_0-50-4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I bought a 1/8" (3.18mm) aluminum rod (12" long) from a hardware store (could also buy it at a hobby/craft store) and drill a 1/8" hole/channel in a small flat piece of wood. I push the rod through the hole until a small section pops out and use a fine-toothed saw to cut off a small disc. Do this where you can find the disc if it falls to the ground as it is small and disappears easily. I use small fine files to burnish the top side and remove burrs at the cut edges. Then I drill a 1/8" hole in the fb side after using an etching needle (or awl) to create a center indent for the drill bit to center on. I drill the same depth as the disc and drip a dab of super-glue in the hole. Then I carefully position the disc over the hole and use a small finishing hammer to tap it in mostly level. (can rise a bit above) I then use the files to carefully level the disc with the fb side and one flush - burnish it with emery-cloth until shiny. It's fussy work and takes patience but the result is worth it.

View attachment 4401959

Here's a kind of cool variation on the concept but using brass tubing:

HGGS detail.jpg


Gives quite an elegant look. However, I believe your/the Dano version is much more effective on a dark stage!

And then there was the Danny Gatton thing of using zirconium.
 
Last edited:
Here's a kind of cool variation on the concept but using brass tubing:

View attachment 4401966

Gives quite an elegant look. However, I believe your/the Dano version is much more effective on a dark stage!

And then there was the Danny Gatton thing of using zirconium.

Not to mention the cool wandering black binding strips (I can't imagine how that is done!)! Does yours have that detail?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dynacord
Photo op - still need to do some work on the neck but otherwise it's done. Weighs in at 8lbs/1oz - perfect. I went with the vintage MIJ tuners sans back cover-boxes as they work well and look good. The boxes would need filing on the sides to fit w/o bumping into each other and I don't mind the look w/open gears. I also opted for a Schaller 3D bridge + riser-plate that I had. The arch of the base-plate matched the fb radius and it's fully adjustable having roller saddles. One of my favorite bridges and like the DiscoBass, a product of the '80s. I used the ok strings that came on it for set-up - ordered my favorite D'Addario's EXLBT's for it which should be here soon.

Ended up to be a very cool colour - sorta' has a pearlescent look from a distance. It also feels nice - smoothly grainy. You wouldn't think so until you feel it - very friendly to touch. It's becoming a trademark finish for me, this being my fifth bass using this technique/method. I now have a few 'pastel' finishes - will need to do a group pic of them... very Easter egg. I plugged it in briefly late last night (quietly) and I could tell it's going to be great at volume in the mix. As is my preferred sound/tone, favoring the bridge pu is 'that' sound - the sound I like hearing. :bassist:

upload_2021-9-11_9-10-3.jpeg
upload_2021-9-11_9-10-23.jpeg
upload_2021-9-11_9-10-42.jpeg
upload_2021-9-11_9-10-57.jpeg
upload_2021-9-11_9-11-18.jpeg
upload_2021-9-11_9-11-33.jpeg

Walls of the cavity sealed with shielding paint and the floor with "slug tape" (copper tape)
upload_2021-9-11_9-31-27.jpeg

re-do by Geo /'21
upload_2021-9-11_9-32-52.jpeg
 

Latest posts