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Double Sevens

#181
58 degrees in February in Michigan?

I had to take the opportunity.

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I started out by carving the belly cut and forearm contour on the myrtle guitar.

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Then I rounded over the tamarind guitar and put a bevel around the top (doesn't really show up in the pictures).

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Next time...

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#183
lbridenstine said:
That veneer line on the myrtle guitar's arm contour was giving me trouble. That still needs some work, but I don't want to remove any more material.
Click to expand...

Had the same problem with a p-bass refurb I did for a friend a while back. If it remember correctly I soaked some thin CA into the veneer line to firm it all up and carefully sanded until the line looked okay
 
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#185
So, does any one have opinions on using the pultruded carbon rods in these necks? Both necks are wenge and black walnut (Eastern). Both boards were cupped before I started and I turned them on their side and used a straight edge and router to true them up. They've been sitting in the basement for 2 months and don't seem to have moved any. I was planning on putting the pultruded rods in both necks just for extra security, but I keep reading statements of wenge necks not needing them and it would save me some work to not put them in this time... I could get the fretboards on a little faster with not having to wait for epoxy to cure and save time on only doing the truss rod routes. Thoughts?
 
#186
Wengé is pretty stiff, so I guess on a guitar you're not looking for extra stiffness but to avoid movements?
Due to the short scale I'd simply use a double-action truss rod but no reinforcements. But I didn't see the Wengé grain, I hope you used quarter-sawn pieces or opposed grains.
 
#187
On the one wenge neck I have made i did install CF rods. (No idea if the are pultruded or not. They probably are) The neck ended up so stiff that the strings were barely able to pull some relief in the neck. A double action truss rod fixed that, though.

I don't know if the valnut will affect anything, but I doubt that the CF is needed.
 
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#188
The neck on a guitar is shorter and the tension is much lower than on a bass, so... yeah, with a single-way truss rod you could even have troubles putting some relief on the fingerboard, expecially if the neck decides to move "backward".
 
#192
Triad said:
I'd be interested in looking at the "top" of the blanks to check the grain but I'm sure it's fine. Anyway, to make it short, I wouldn't use CF reinforcements but would use a 2ways truss rods.
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It looks like this is the closest I have to a picture of the face of the wenge, which is surprising... I guess I must have been waiting to shape them before taking more pictures.

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#193
What kind of truss rods did you plan to use? How thick is the fingerboard? I see that Walnut takes a big percentage of the total neck mass... but still, on a guitar I don't think you'll need reinforcements but I'd certainly use 2ways truss rods so if the piece develops a back-bow I can still make it straight or get relief. Guitar strings aren't strong enough for that.
 
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#194
I like using graphite rods in guitar necks because I can get them really thin but they remain stable with no dead spots. I haven't used wenge in a neck though. I guess it depends on the neck profiles the customers want. If they want them thin and fast, having the rods gives a little flexibility for shape while retaining dimensional stability. Although, I haven't used wenge in a neck. Repeated for emphasis, lol :D
 
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#196
I'm using dual action truss rods.

The neck shape is going to be like an asymmetric Carvin 7 string neck. A friend let me trace the shape of his Carvin neck with a contour gauge, so I'm going to try to match it. He said it was the most comfortable neck shape he's ever played on and I'm liking the idea of asymmetry. I did an asymmetrical shaped neck on the last bass I made too and it was super comfy.

Total neck thickness at the nut will be about 13/16" and about 7/8" at the 12th fret. The fretboard is probably slightly more than 1/4". One fretboard is ziricote and the other is katalox, so I think they will both be pretty stiff.

I'm so excited to see these necks after they're shaped and sanded. I've seen some pictures of solid 1 piece wenge necks and they're some of the best looking necks in my opinion. The wenge I had on hand wasn't wide enough for that, so I laminated them, but at some point I'll probably try a 1 piece wenge neck. PDX Rich, is yours solid wenge? What are the body woods?
 
#197
lbridenstine said:
I'm using dual action truss rods.

The neck shape is going to be like an asymmetric Carvin 7 string neck. A friend let me trace the shape of his Carvin neck with a contour gauge, so I'm going to try to match it. He said it was the most comfortable neck shape he's ever played on and I'm liking the idea of asymmetry. I did an asymmetrical shaped neck on the last bass I made too and it was super comfy.

Total neck thickness at the nut will be about 13/16" and about 7/8" at the 12th fret. The fretboard is probably slightly more than 1/4". One fretboard is ziricote and the other is katalox, so I think they will both be pretty stiff.

I'm so excited to see these necks after they're shaped and sanded. I've seen some pictures of solid 1 piece wenge necks and they're some of the best looking necks in my opinion. The wenge I had on hand wasn't wide enough for that, so I laminated them, but at some point I'll probably try a 1 piece wenge neck. PDX Rich, is yours solid wenge? What are the body woods?
Click to expand...

My wenge board is 4/4 so I will need to rip and laminate in a qsawn orientation. The body wings will be laminated 4/4 zebrawood and either a zebrawood or wenge or ziricote(if I can find) top and wenge fingerboard.
 
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