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Downsides/Cons of Headless Basses?

I just thought of a con...as we've been discussing, turning those tuners can be hard, so some maintenance is involved. However, not only does lubricating the threads of the tuners make them turn easier, it can save having to replace them. I had to replace one on my '88 XL2 because it had stripped out. That's when I learned lubrication is important there.
 
I really didn't even think about doing that back then. That was 30 years ago...
But I do have an old cort that I took in on trade with a bunch of other gear... It's not in very good condition but I thought about fixing it up for a beater... It has tight knobs so I'll try that on it.

Thanks!
Actually, as I remember, those old headless Corts were good sounding basses. I had a friend who played one back before they were "old" Corts.
 
I really didn't even think about doing that back then. That was 30 years ago...
But I do have an old cort that I took in on trade with a bunch of other gear... It's not in very good condition but I thought about fixing it up for a beater... It has tight knobs so I'll try that on it.

Thanks!
I have one, they came with DiMarzio pickups.
My wife bought it at a Sear's outlet store.
Still rock mine

:)
 
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I guess the only downside is that it's not a DOUBLE HEADSTOCK!
RockHewer Custom Arachnophilia 8 2017 Red Malleé Burl Gloss | Reverb

If you call that a downside.

Oh NOOOOO. Wow that is one ridiculous kind of a thing. Jeez, it's so ugly it's like it's cursed! haha

Not necessarily a headless feature, but the zero fret somehow aided in getting the action stupidly low so it was so easy to play.

oooh, thanks for reminding me of the zero fret concept. Another design feature I need to explore/research a bit more!

The epitome of ugly and totally void of grace.

haha it definitely seems like there's quite a subjective division between people who think they look cool/elegant, and those who find them repulsive!

I will say this, SOME manufacturers, who make otherwise nice looking instruments, have HIDEOUS headstock shapes, and I don't think I could take having any part of an expensive custom bass I might have built be less than attractive to me if I'm forking over big $$$!

Also, I think you need to make sure you get a headless bass that has its body going underneath the tuning knobs under the bridge. Some basses have the tuner knobs extending beneath the bottom when the bass is standing upright, and if the bass hits the floor, it can damage the knobs and bridge. Kiesel's headless models have one, the Vader, that has the exposed bridge, but the other models (Thanos, Osiris, Zeus) do not.

Excellent heads up on that potential issue. A very worthy design consideration!
 
Depends on the particular instrument. My Steinberger L2, NS Radius CR and my now-departed Kramer Duke all have different ways to install single ball strings (only the L uses double balls, which is all that I use).

I should have been more specific: is there a way to speed up the winding process when installing new strings with tuning machines that require so many turns? Is there a device you can use to speed things up? On the headless basses I've tried, the tuning knobs were very close to one another, which I imagine might cause me to say things you're not supposed to say in public, especially when installing a set of new strings. ;)
 
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I should have been more specific: is there a way to speed up the winding process when installing new strings with tuning machines that require so many turns? Is there a device you can use to speed things up? On the headless basses I've tried, the tuning knobs were very close to one another, which I imagine might cause me to say things you're not supposed to say in public, especially when installing a set of new strings. ;)
It's not really that bad. However, if you have arthritis in your fingers or carpal tunnel in your wrist, that could affect your ability when changing strings. Take the steps I mentioned in a post above to make it easier for both you and the bass.
 
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I should have been more specific: is there a way to speed up the winding process when installing new strings with tuning machines that require so many turns? Is there a device you can use to speed things up? On the headless basses I've tried, the tuning knobs were very close to one another, which I imagine might cause me to say things you're not supposed to say in public, especially when installing a set of new strings. ;)

I haven’t found that to be a problem. In fact, I can get a headless string up to pitch faster than a headed bass.
 
I've had a bunch of headless basses over the years: many Steinbergers and a Leduc UBass. On virtually all of them I've had issues with the tuners stretching/deforming and eventually needing to be rebuilt by a specialty shop like Peekamoose in midtown Manhattan.

One downside (for me) was that after playing conventional basses and guitars for so long, you develop 30+ years of muscle memory for fine-tuning the thing while playing. It's hard to get used to tuning at the bridge on the fly (for me).
 
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On virtually all of them I've had issues with the tuners stretching/deforming and eventually needing to be rebuilt by a specialty shop like Peekamoose in midtown Manhattan.
The original Steinberger jaws are known to do this, but replacement high carbon steel sets are available from Headless USA and don't need anything special to install them. I got a SS set through Steinberger World 20ya but my originals are still fine.