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Downtuning Mega-Thread

#61
I was watching some videos this morning of people doing covers that are tuned BEAD. Some exceptional tones out there.
Something that was brought up in the comments section involved the bridge and thickness of the B string, and I've wondered about this myself.
If the string slot in the bridge is too narrow, does that "choke" the harmonics of the B, making it sound dead and uneven with the other strings? That is something I encounter a lot when trying to make anything lower than C on a .110 work.
Has anyone else experienced this? Has having a wider slot, or using tapers, helped you?
 
#62
socialleper said:
I was watching some videos this morning of people doing covers that are tuned BEAD. Some exceptional tones out there.
Something that was brought up in the comments section involved the bridge and thickness of the B string, and I've wondered about this myself.
If the string slot in the bridge is too narrow, does that "choke" the harmonics of the B, making it sound dead and uneven with the other strings? That is something I encounter a lot when trying to make anything lower than C on a .110 work.
Has anyone else experienced this? Has having a wider slot, or using tapers, helped you?
Click to expand...

I've come across this and learned the hard way. Even if the string will pass through, it has to be able to turn in the hole because if not, the string can twist during installation and tuning effecting the tone greatly. Just bore out the hole with a drill bit enabling the string to freely twist.
 
#63
Xandrell said:
I've come across this and learned the hard way. Even if the string will pass through, it has to be able to turn in the hole because if not, the string can twist during installation and tuning effecting the tone greatly. Just bore out the hole with a drill bit enabling the string to freely twist.
Click to expand...
Good note. String binding can be a factor if you aren't careful.
What about the string fitting into the saddle its self. Do you feel that if it isn't in a groove it can "deaden" the string?
 
#64
socialleper said:
C on a .110
Click to expand...
C on a .110? Used to enjoy E on a .110. My heavy string preference I've tried to dismiss since moving on to my 5... As for the B...I notice it's just a chunkier, more subby tone from the rest of the strings. Granted, it's coming from a .130 gauge but I thought the heavier the string generally the more the clank? Not so much out of the B. I think it's a combination of the amplification behind it and feel.
 
#65
BigBasserino said:
C on a .110? Used to enjoy E on a .110. My heavy string preference I've tried to dismiss since moving on to my 5... As for the B...I notice it's just a chunkier, more subby tone from the rest of the strings. Granted, it's coming from a .130 gauge but I thought the heavier the string generally the more the clank? Not so much out of the B. I think it's a combination of the amplification behind it and feel.
Click to expand...
In current band uses an CGCF tuning and a BEAD tuning. A hex core .110 set can be made to play drop C if you use a light touch. A .115 would be better but I think only Boomers has one, and I don't like anything about them. For now I use a .120 but I run into the clarity issue we are discussing.

A well set up B doesn't need to be a dark mess. These two videos have pretty good tones. There is an alchemy that has to be worked out to make it sound right. Before anyone starts on the "over drive" angle, believe me, I've worked that as well.

 
#68
Is it feasible to have one bass dedicated to various downtunings without changing between different gauges for each tuning? I have my main standard tuning bass, but want to pick up another bass specifically for covering down tuned songs. I was thinking D standard would he a good starting point, because some of the artists I want to play use D, C+, drop C, C, B etc. Would there be a string gauge out there that wouldn't be overly tight for D standard, but wouldnt sound like slop in C or B?
 
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#69
chanson said:
Is it feasible to have one bass dedicated to various downtunings without changing between different gauges for each tuning? I have my main standard tuning bass, but want to pick up another bass specifically for covering down tuned songs. I was thinking D standard would he a good starting point, because some of the artists I want to play use D, C+, drop C, C, B etc. Would there be a string gauge out there that wouldn't be overly tight for D standard, but wouldnt sound like slop in C or B?
Click to expand...
In my personal experience you can go a semi tone or tone, but thats about it. With the right strings an E set will do drop D or D standard. A C set that works well for B would be awfully tight tuned to C, but it could be done. A good B set can do A.
 
#71
Thread necromancy!

Do you guys have any fret preferences when downtuning? Dingwall seems to use smaller (banjo) frets on their basses. I've got to P basses and I've noticed that the one with medium frets has a little more buzz than the one with more smaller frets. Any ideas?
 
#72
C_nut said:
Thread necromancy!

Do you guys have any fret preferences when downtuning? Dingwall seems to use smaller (banjo) frets on their basses. I've got to P basses and I've noticed that the one with medium frets has a little more buzz than the one with more smaller frets. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
That was never a consideration for me.
 
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#73
Thread necromancy, again.

I am in the hunt for two 5ers now that I discovered mine was jacked. The gameplan is to have one for BEADG, a halfstep down and Drop D, and another bass for a full step down or close to that. I am a bedroom player. And I hate switching tuning dramatically because they kill the strings.

The basses I am looking at are Schecter, I am left handed and they have a generous selection for LH, and their 5s are 35in (good for lower tunings/B string), they're bolt on with maple necks. One has mahogany body with rosewood fretboard (Custom Stiletto 5), another has Adler with maple fretboard. (Riot Session 5). Both have EMG (HZ and Humbucker/Jazz, respectively).

- If I am using a bass for tuning lower, would it make sense to use the one that is has brighter tonewood so it sounds more clear at a lower tuning? Or will the active EQ make this a nonissue? Are tonewoods something I need to take into consideration?

- For BEADG, or a halfstep down, I like DR HI BEAMS 45-125. I do not like them for a full step down. Too flabby. I see them and other companies make gauges for tuning a step down but they seem excessively thick. Do you guys think 50-70-90-110-130/135 will do?

- If I am taking a bass and keeping it in A D etc (one step down) for an extended period of time, do I need to adjust the bridge and neck? Especially if I use a slightly higher gauge than 45-125.

I may have other questions later but that is all. Thanks.
 
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