DR DDT Bass Strings

[pickles]

Any time you're wrapping the full thickness of a B string around the post, you're in trouble. It sounds like DR needs to make some more winding lengths available. Be sure to let them know it happened again, they can only respond to the problems they know about.

I have them on two 34" scale 5's with no problems.

 

[knuckle_head]

Any time you're wrapping the full thickness of a B string around the post, you're in trouble.

Agreed - I have found this to be a risk to any three wrap string - even E strings if they are particularly rigid. I had cores snap on .110 Quake strings I had done some years back as there was an il-located taper (my bad) on the tuner end.

It sounds like DR needs to make some more winding lengths available. Be sure to let them know it happened again, they can only respond to the problems they know about.

I have them on two 34" scale 5's with no problems.

Maybe they are intended as a through body string? Would take some length out beyond the nut that way.

 

[Joe Smithberger]

I have them on two 34" scale 5's with no problems.

Do you have those strung through the body?

 

[spaz21387]

dont these strings require modification to the nut to fit? thats what scares me. i like playing in drop c tunings but if i have to file the nut to make them fit ill pass

 

[jtc_hunter]

Yes to go that big on diameter, the nut will have to be filed. I really think the problems some of us are having has to do with the length of the string before the taper starts. I strongly advise those of you with 4 string Fenders(inline tuners) to steer clear of these strings if you are going to try stringing BEAD. The B string will have the fat part of the string trying to go around your tuning peg, therefore leading to a broken core. I learned this the hard way with 2 broken .130 B strings. If you have a 35" scale or string thru the body, you will probably be OK.

 

[BarStarzBass]

Just put a set of the 55's on my 4-string G&L L-2000 Fretless. Not string-thru body, in-line tuners, and the thick part of the 115 E string does wind on the post about a 1/4 turn. Hopefully this won't be enough to break the core - but I'll report back if it does.

P.S. Had some trepidation about putting these SS roundwounds on a fretless that had only worn flatwounds, but I have a flatwound-strung P bass for my "round" sound and I need the L-2000 to be my "sharp" sound. I've heard that the DR steels are among the most fretless-friendly out there, and I hope that will be the case for me. I got a little alarmed when after only an hour's playing there was a little carbon-copy impression of the string (right down to the windings) on the ebony fingerboard - to my relief it came off with a polish cloth, but I'm going to keep an eye on this, and jump to nickel Sunbeams or GHS Brite-flats if I see undue wear (not looking to keep it pristine - this is a player).

But I'm LOVING the sound . . . gets that piano-timbre on the E, nice growly aggressive sound when you roll on the treble and/or engage the hi-boost pre, and cleans up nicely (though with still a "don't mess with me" edge) when you dial back or go passive. And even though they are thicker than the 45-105's I usually use, they are as flexible.

 

[Burlington]

FWIW, I tune to drop C and use 115 DDTs. No nut filing needed in my case.

 

[pickles]

Do you have those strung through the body?

No on both, but the warwick does have a longer saddle to tailpiece run than usual.

 

[Metal Mitch]

Ok, I tried the 115 set for D flat tuning.

Had to raise the action just as high as a LaBella M70 set with a 110 on the bottom. Which is pretty high in D flat.

DR's focus when making these strings must have been exclusively on clarity and pitch definition - which they have all the way up the fretboard.

Tonally they seem to be a middle ground between the HiBeams and LoRiders. A much more neutral tone, without the pingy highs of the HiBeams or the punchy mids of the LoRiders.

Compared to LaBella HRS, they have none of the throaty mids. But they're not mushy on the attack like HRS.

And it's actually pretty nice to be able to play high on the fretboard without warble or wolf tones. If that's what you're looking for, great.

But the tension is closer to the HiBeams, so they're pretty useless for actually tuning down. And the wrap extends a little too far up toward the peghead for 34" scale.

Mine haven't broke yet. I wound up bringing the 115 set up to D natural and they seem fine at that tension. Just like HiBeams, I need to go up a gauge heavier for the same tuning. Seems self-defeating for a string that's supposedly designed for lower tunings.

Overall I'd say: if they correct the wrap length, it'll be an improved string from DR. But with tension this low, it absolutely fails at meeting the design goal of a string for lower tunings.

 

[pickles]

115 for D natural seems about right. They should also make more variety in sets, a 120 set would probably be just right for your C#.

 

[rockstarbassist]

I'm having 2 sets of these come in today, just b/c I wanted to try them out and have a time crunch b/c of recording!
I have the .55-.115's for my 4 and .55-.135 for my 5'er.

Will report back for tone, "feel", intonation, etc..

 

[knuckle_head]

How will you tune them?

Should you get around to Circle K's at comparable (correct) tunings a compare and contrast would be über cool.

 

[rockstarbassist]

Yeah man you're next on my list, for sure. I just didn't know how quickly a turnaround I'd get and I have to do some tracking by Sunday so I was in a pinch. Just joined a new band and have been putting this off for at least 2+ weeks so I had no choice.

The 4 will be in drop C (CGCF) and the 5 in modified-sorta drop C also (ACGCF)- the low G is just too much.

I will PM you here in the next week or so and get an order setup so I can have them on the way when we are ready to start gigging by Aug. 1. The only thing I need to discuss as far as size goes, is whether or not they will fit in the brass bridge of my Spectors. I'm already somewhat hesitant about these "bigger" sizes working but I've heard they will from other cats in the Spector Club thread they for sure will. So then I can give you what I approximate to be a "max" size string.

 

[knuckle_head]

G at the right tension works amazingly - just sayin'

 

[rockstarbassist]

G at the right tension works amazingly - just sayin'

Don't you tempt me!!

 

[dukeplaysbass]

I bought four sets and tried two sets on a couple of basses I have strung BEAD (G&Ls). I don't really like the tension (just a hair too floppy) and I don't like the tone much. Broke two of the B cores. Had to call DR for replacements, which they happily sent. I'll be returning the unused sets to my dealer for credit and replacement with Ken Smith Rock Masters and I'll be throwing away more G strings (no, not *that* kind of G string....I save those.)

 

[knuckle_head]

duke - do you string through the body?

 

[dukeplaysbass]

duke - do you string through the body?

Can't with the 4-string G&Ls.

 

[knuckle_head]

Forgive the spamishness, but I sell 4 string B sets.

 

[wetzelman1]

well, just got a great deal on a set of these 55-115's. Tuned CGCF in my last band, new bands going down to AGCF. Just started playing my old 20th Anniversary squier pbass after a setup and shielding and figured I'd throw these guys on. I don't experiment with strings much so take what I say with a grain of salt. As soon as I put these on, I noticed a lack in output. I also think they sound thin/dark. CGCF was alright tension but definitely was not tuning down to A with any acceptable tension. They tone also seemed to lack any kindof punch. I took these off and threw the 6 yr old stings back on and it sounds much better, at least on the pbass.

I'll try throwing them on my spector and see how that goes.