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Drill press problem

I have a problem with my drillpress. After turning the drillpress on, the claws of the chuck open up.
So I thought the problem was the chuck. I bought a new chuck (Albrecht), but the problem is still there.


Im working on a few basses at the moment, and Im at the point where I really need my drillpress.

I have no clue what could be the problem
 
Speed kills.
Any piticular reason you're using such a high speed?
Judging by the video you're a victim of vibration and centrifugal force opening up your chuck.
Does the chuck utilize a key to tighten it or hand?
I'd slow it down and choke up on your tool so it doesn't vibrate so much from hanging out so far.
 
Just in case you're not already doing this- an amateur machinist friend of mine told me you should always tighten the chuck, then move the key to a different hole and tighten it again. I've found that the chuck will almost always move a little when you do this, indicating the chuck was binding slightly, preventing it from fully tightening.
 
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I'll agree with the points raised. Slow down the speed. You're going to burn your bits. Ask Albrecht if they'll swap it for a standard keyed chuck. I'd never use a a keyless on a drill press. A screw gun perhaps, but not a drill press.

After installing a keyless chuck on my drill press, I will never use a keyed chuck again. They hold fine, and work well if you get a good chuck
 
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DaanW, I'm completely baffled by the problem you are having. I've never seen a chuck let go of a drill bit like that, unless somebody simply forgot to tighten it on the drill bit. I don't mean to be insulting, but are you tightening the chuck on the drill bit? You are supposed to hold the upper knurled collar still with your left hand, and turn the chuck body to the right with your right hand. Tighten it as much as you can with your hand strength. It doesn't take very much torque to cause it to self-lock, but you aren't going to be able to harm it by over-tightening by hand.

The only other way that I can think of that a chuck wouldn't lock up, is if there are some long metal shaving spirals or wood splinters jammed up inside it, between the jaws. Is the chuck clean inside?

Albrecht's keyless drill chucks are arguably the finest drill chucks made in the world. They are beautifully made and expensive and highly preferred by machinists everywhere. I have several of them, which I mostly use in the tailstocks of my larger metal lathes. I also have one that I use in my mill/drill machine. They are simple and tough and a joy to use.

In my shop, I have about 22 or so drill presses of various sizes, from little tabletop models to big 1200 lb. monsters. Many of those are antiques in storage and under restoration. By quick mental count, I have 10 drill presses which are fully operational and in regular use. Three are in the woodworking shop and seven in the metal shop. Different sizes and setups. Of those 10, three have import 1/2" keyless chucks, the rest are keyed Jacobs chucks. The two drill presses that I use most often, one in the wood shop and one in the metal shop, have the keyless chucks. I really like the speed and convenience of the keyless chucks for drills up to 3/8" shank. That includes most of my woodworking bradpoint bits.

The imported 1/2" keyless chucks are available these days for about $25, and in my experience, they work very well. I have one that has about 25 years of use, and it still hasn't worn out or given me any trouble. The others get used every single day, changing bits multiple times. The imports aren't quite as accurate as an Albrecht, but they are fine for drill press use.

Keyed chucks have more grip for larger woodworking bits like Forstner bits with 1/2" shanks. Most large size bits will have three flats on the 1/2" shank, which helps a lot with the grip in the chuck, either keyed or keyless.

In the metalworking shop, I use the drill press with the keyless chuck for most drills up to 3/8". I use a larger (and slower) drill press with a keyed chuck for straight drills up to 3/4" and for S & D (reduced shank) drills up to 1". Larger than that, in metal, I use Morse Taper style drills, MT3 and MT4.
 
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No real mystery. I'm a machinist by trade as well. We have all keyless chucks at work too. Most are Albrechts. It's obvious by the video. I stand by my post. Your rpm is too high. Your tool is hanging out too far. It's probably running out. There's too much vibration causing the chuck to release.
Slow it down. Choke up on the tool. Remove the runout by indicating the tool (if possible). I'd put money on your problem disappearing. If that doesn't work you've got a problem with the spindle drive on your press. Or perhaps the pulleys are running out or unbalanced causing vibration.
 
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I don't know, saltydude, that looks like a standard length bradpoint bit, and it looks like he's chucking on the full length of the reduced shank. He's running it a little faster than I would, but I don't see any obvious bad runout or vibration in the video. I've certainly run bits that size that fast in keyless chucks and never had one drop out like that. Unless I had actually forgotten to tighten it. I'm puzzled by this one.
 
Valid points sir. I have seen this condition before. The preventative steps I mentioned solved the issue but there may very well be something else at play here. Good luck OP. I hope you can solve this.

If the chuck opens up enough to accept the larger portion of the shank he can choke up on it. That was my reference. If not well your stuck with the smaller diameter portion.
 
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If the OP's drill speed is too high, what's the optimum speed (if any) for general woodworking? I have a 60's craftsman with the usual multiple sized stacked set of belt wheels to adjust speed. They aren't marked for speed, and it's a bit of a task to change wheels. My mortiser runs well at 1750 rpm, the press seems slower.
 
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I don't know, saltydude, that looks like a standard length bradpoint bit, and it looks like he's chucking on the full length of the reduced shank. He's running it a little faster than I would, but I don't see any obvious bad runout or vibration in the video. I've certainly run bits that size that fast in keyless chucks and never had one drop out like that. Unless I had actually forgotten to tighten it. I'm puzzled by this one.

I think this may be his problem, but I am not sure. If he is pushing the drill bit all the way against the jaws of the chuck before tightening it, the jaws may be binding against the shoulder of the drill bit, not allowing it to tighten all the way. The same principal as bottoming out a router bit in the collet before tightening.

OP, try giving your bit about 1/8" between the shank and the shoulder so the jaws have room to move
 
Almost every one of my drill presses is set at the slowest speed of the belts. Drill bits last much longer, there's less vibration and chatter. To me, the only reason for higher speed in drilling is production/manufacturing, where you are trying to really cut every second of a production process.

Most of my 15" drill presses run at about 450-550 rpm. For me, that's fine for most drilling in wood. For larger Forstner bits, like over 1 1/2", I use my big 21" drill press at 170 rpm. Carbide Forstner bits are made for running at high speeds in production setups, but they work beautifully at slow speeds too.
 
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I think this may be his problem, but I am not sure. If he is pushing the drill bit all the way against the jaws of the chuck before tightening it, the jaws may be binding against the shoulder of the drill bit, not allowing it to tighten all the way. The same principal as bottoming out a router bit in the collet before tightening.

OP, try giving your bit about 1/8" between the shank and the shoulder so the jaws have room to move

Yeah, that's a possibility. If you push the bit up too close against the chuck jaws, the tips of the jaws may be riding up on the small radius between the reduced shank and the main drill body.
 
I can't speak from any experience here, but let me ask this: Does this happen with other bits (of differing sizes, including some without reduced shanks), or just this one? Knowing whether it's a problem overall, or with just this bit, will offer a clue.