Drivers - Rear vs Front Mount

[83_Silberpfeil]

About to mount 2 X 15 drivers onto the face of the cab. Are there advantages of rear vs front mount or vice versa?

These are vintage Gauss drivers that weigh ~ 25 lbs each.

Please advise.

 

[CL400Peavey]

About to mount 2 X 15 drivers onto the face of the cab. Are there advantages of rear vs front mount or vice versa?

These are vintage Gauss drivers that weigh ~ 25 lbs each.

Please advise.

To rear mount, you have to have a removable panel, which is a design fail IMHO.

 

[BassmanPaul]

Front mount and you can glue all the panels together permanently. Rear mount you have to have a way of accessing the drivers from behind.

 

[Rick James]

Front mount allows the cab to be built using monocoque construction, which is lighter and stronger and less expensive to build than one with a removeable back. There is a very slight difference in the sound, too slight to matter. But the last thing I'd do is build a 2x15 with those dinosaurs, I'd build a pair of 1x15. My back hurts just thinking about it.

 

[JimmyM]

No advantage to rear mounting at all. If anything, it cuts down on dispersion. That said, I love my B-15 cabs and they're rear mounted, but I see no reason to do it if you can use front mounting.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

LOL!!!

. But the last thing I'd do is build a 2x15 with those dinosaurs, I'd build a pair of 1x15. My back hurts just thinking about it.

LOL!!!

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks for the advice wise men!!! I was thinking along lines of front being more convenient -- to access inside the cab.

My main concern/hesitation is that the distance between the mounting (wood screw) holes and the edge of the mounting face (plywood) is too small to safely screw in the wood screw w/o splitting the plywood. Any remedy or approach to avoid this?

 

[B-string]

Thanks for the advice wise men!!! I was thinking along lines of front being more convenient -- to access inside the cab.

My main concern/hesitation is that the distance between the mounting (wood screw) holes and the edge of the mounting face (plywood) is too small to safely screw in the wood screw w/o splitting the plywood. Any remedy or approach to avoid this?

Do not use wood screws.

Use T-nuts and machine screws.

 

[agedhorse]

Rear mounting is/was necessary for some speaker types such as horn loaded. The old Altec A2/4/7 and JBL 4550/4560 were rear loaded because they HAD to be.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Interesting suggestion. Are these stronger --- or you can tighten more?

Do not use wood screws.

Use T-nuts and machine screws.

 

[BurningSkies]

I like front mount...it snows a lot around here and front mount gives me more traction when it gets slippery and keeps my rig from fishtailing.

 

[B-string]

Interesting suggestion. Are these stronger --- or you can tighten more?

Yes, you pre drill the hole and the T-nut takes the stress of the mounting hardware making a clamp between the inside of the board where the T-nut is mounted and the frame on the speaker on the outside of the board. No stripped or cracked wood.

 

[Sputnik Monroe]

Front mount all the way ... My Sunn 200s 2x15 cab is rear mounted and beautifully made not a loose joint or rattle in it after 47 years of use. But the back is held in by no less than 37 screws it was state of the art in its day, but I would not build one that way now.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

I like front mount...it snows a lot around here and front mount gives me more traction when it gets slippery and keeps my rig from fishtailing.

What you need is dual/quad mount!

 

[BurningSkies]

What you need is dual/quad mount!

Here in the great white north, you can never be too careful...

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Very well --- I'm totally convinced. Now take a look at my fotos. There is not much space between inside edge of the bolt hole to the edge of the speaker hole (on the plywood). Enough?

Gauss 4580 - Back of perimiter mounting lip

• 83_Silberpfeil
• Jun 25, 2015

Gauss 4580 - Back of perimiter mounting lip3

• 83_Silberpfeil
• Jun 25, 2015

Gauss 4580 - Back of perimiter mounting lip2

• 83_Silberpfeil
• Jun 25, 2015

Yes, you pre drill the hole and the T-nut takes the stress of the mounting hardware making a clamp between the inside of the board where the T-nut is mounted and the frame on the speaker on the outside of the board. No stripped or cracked wood.

 

[B-string]

I see, either grind off an edge of the T-nut, use a cut-off wheel with a dremel or use a clamp system like below.

Amazon.com: Penn-Elcom G0780KIT Large Speaker Grill Clamp Kit: Electronics

 

[SeattleSunn]

Do not use wood screws.

Use T-nuts and machine screws.

... and glue to hold the T-nuts.

 

[Doug Parent]

About to mount 2 X 15 drivers onto the face of the cab. Are there advantages of rear vs front mount or vice versa?

These are vintage Gauss drivers that weigh ~ 25 lbs each.

Please advise.

Which model of Gauss just curious?

 

[jchrisk1]

When I played in a reggae band years ago we built a 215 cab with the top speaker front loaded and the bottom speaker rear loaded. It had altecs in it. Can't remember which model exactly. I would place the cab a couple of feet from the wall and it acted like a sub. The cab was was vented and each speaker was basically in its own box kind of like an 810. Was it better than both being front loaded? I don't know, but it could produce some earthshaking lows that would make your eyeballs rattle.