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Drivers - Rear vs Front Mount

#42
I recommend the Deluxe 6-Prong T nuts from Parts Express. They have both 1/4" and #10, depending on which machine screw you want to use. In my experience, the 6 prongs hold better, plus the flange doesn't seem to intrude as much into the driver cut-out. To install the T nuts, thread a machine screw through from the backside with a fender washer and nut on the front, then use a ratchet wrench to slowly pull the prongs into the wood.
 
#47
Wow, much appreciate the continued support on this discussion thread! You read my mind @B-string ! I had planned on 8 clamps per driver --- as Peter Hook had it back in the 80's w New Order. I guess each L clamp should be able to hold 3.125 lbs. with ease. Thanks for pointing this out. Cheers!

B-string said:
Eh if you don't think a steel clamp with a 1/4"-20 bolt could support 6.25 lbs each, make the hole a snug fit or use eight of them. They only need to hold the speaker to the sound board, not suspend it.
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#48
Good point --- snug so that vertically, driver rests on the bottom of the cut-out on the plywood (3/4 baltic birch --- the good stuff). And snug enough so that the driver won't slide side-to-side, and up-and-down. This is great advice.

The cutout has been done already @ 13-3/4" per Gauss specs for a "rear-mount".

I will re-draw for the 14" front-mount specs (per gauss). Then use jug saw and slowly shave the additional 1/8 all around to drop in the driver.


agedhorse said:
When using that style of clamp, the driver needs to fit the hole pretty close or it will slide around.
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#49
With all these expert chiming in, now I have lots considerations to think about. One hybrid fastening approach comes to mind now ---

1) front drop in mount
2) use smaller size pan handle wood screws to secure driver to plywood ---- as a measure to prevent "sliding around the mount hole" (as mentioned by @agedhorse )
3) use the L-clamps, t-nut system to secure the driver to the perimeters as illustrated by @B-string . I will use 8 per driver ---- yes overkill, but a good safety measure and peace of mind ---- plus the Peter Hook look :-).


SteveCS said:
That chassis looks like it is designed for rear-mounting - I bet there is a lot more width on the front, possibly with a foam isolation ring? I have an EV driver that has a similar chassis - rear-mount only with just enough room on the back for the nuts. On the front, the holes come through in the middle of the frame.
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#50
83_Silberpfeil said:
With all these expert chiming in, now I have lots considerations to think about. One hybrid fastening approach comes to mind now ---

1) front drop in mount
2) use smaller size pan handle wood screws to secure driver to plywood ---- as a measure to prevent "sliding around the mount hole" (as mentioned by @agedhorse )
3) use the L-clamps, t-nut system to secure the driver to the perimeters as illustrated by @B-string . I will use 8 per driver ---- yes overkill, but a good safety measure and peace of mind ---- plus the Peter Hook look :).
Click to expand...

That's exactly how I've done many cabs, but if using the 5mm thick L-clamps four have always been enough.
 
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#55
Quick update guys --- after thinking it thru thoroughly and going back and forth, I decided to go with rear mount. The L-clamps would have been installed at an angle (due to existing think speaker gaskets and grill). The angle on clamp would also cause the bolt to be tightened at an angle --- making the T-nut install a challenge / headache.

Thanks so much to all for chiming in and helping out. You really made a difference for my build!.

Made some good progress today. Will move it to new thread here...
My Cab Build - 2X15 monster | TalkBass.com
 
#57
bassmeknik said:
I learned a technique several years ago that I will share. To avoid having the T nuts break out at the edge of the cut-out I cut the driver hole with my hand held jig saw set to cut at 5 to 10 degrees away from vertical and cut so the finished driver cut-out hole is smaller on the inside of the box (front load only) I start by marking the correct cut-out diameter on the front of the baffle board. Then after drilling a starter hole for the blade at about a 5 to 10 degree angle aiming towards the center of the cut-out. Now cut in one direction only all the way around with the end of the blade angled towards the center of the hole. This provides a finished hole that is the correct diameter at the front to facilitate mounting but with the hole slightly smaller at the back side of the baffle there is more wood for the T nuts to be held by and are less likely to break out or split the hole they are in. I must admit to learning this from BFM from his speaker box plans.

Edit: sorry for the troll post... Front load all the way for me.
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I used a 15 degree bevel router bit at the edge of the speaker hole on my last build. It worked great.
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