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Drop C, need more punch!!!

#21
Thunder Pulse said:
If you didn't want me to respond the way I did then you should have posted a link to something that disputed what I said instead of something that reinforced it.

The original poster already got all the help he needed from knuckle_head. He explained what he should be looking for and why. No offense, but I don't see where you've helped him at all. You've made recommendations, but with no explanation as to why. Knowing to use heavier gauge strings is pretty much a given unless you're brand new to the scene.
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Uh, yea, it does dispute what you said.

Also, read the OP, he is asking for recommendations. I gave him one, because I play in a lower tuning also and these are the strings that work for me.

As for DDT's not being for drop down tuning, I would like to see what proof you have as to disprove that.
 
#22
Burlington said:
.... As for DDT's not being for drop down tuning, I would like to see what proof you have as to disprove that.
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They are indeed for drop down tuning. They are balanced to take the entire set down in pitch.

They are not balanced for drop tuning. This is evident by the gauges in the set. This can be proven out by doing the math using unit mass data.

That they work for you is awesome, but it doesn't change the math.

To the OP; finding drop tune sets retail will be very difficult. Consider finding a music store that sells single strings and build a set using gauges close to the ones I suggested in my first post.
 
#24
I play in drop C and now dropping the low string down to A. I had originally used GHS boomers 115 for my low c but then had my bass setup with EB slinky 105 which worked much better and will go down to A but gets floppy. I'm still hunting for which will be the best but a proper setup is what's going to help the most.
 
#25
Burlington said:
Uh, yea, it does dispute what you said.
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No it doesn't. Dude, seriously, I don't know if you have a reading comprehension problem or what, but you just don't get it. Your "proof" is nothing more than an ad copy right from DR's website. It's marketing. It means nothing. If they said switching to the DDT strings would make you rich too, does that "prove" they would?

Also, read the OP, he is asking for recommendations. I gave him one, because I play in a lower tuning also and these are the strings that work for me.
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I already acknowledged that you gave him a recommendation, but I guess you missed that too. You didn't give him any reason for your recommendation though, just that they were better than the gauges you were using before. As has already been pointed out umpteen times, using heavier gauge strings for lower tunings is pretty much a no brainer.

As for DDT's not being for drop down tuning, I would like to see what proof you have as to disprove that.
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No, you're right - DDT's are perfect for "drop down tuning," but not "drop" tuning. You apparently still think they're the same thing even though at least 2 of us here have tried to explain to you that they're not.

I'm glad you like the strings you're using, I'll leave it at that.
 
#27
So, I am using a set of extra light strings on my shortscale bass and tuning to drop A. I'm playing a 1000W SS head through a 1x10 with all the mids scooped and the bass and treble dimed. I just don't have to seem any punch or clarity and I can't seem to cut through the mix to be heard. Also my strings feel floppy.

I don't get it. Can someone help me out, but I'm not interested in hearing any fancy explanations that involve "physics" and whatnot. I just want to sound BROOTAL.
 
#28
PSPookie said:
So, I am using a set of extra light strings on my shortscale bass and tuning to drop A. I'm playing a 1000W SS head through a 1x10 with all the mids scooped and the bass and treble dimed. I just don't have to seem any punch or clarity and I can't seem to cut through the mix to be heard. Also my strings feel floppy.

I don't get it. Can someone help me out, but I'm not interested in hearing any fancy explanations that involve "physics" and whatnot. I just want to sound BROOTAL.
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I'm by no means a string expert, but playing 1000 ss watts through a 1x10 is probably the biggest problem. I would also never use extra light strings with a low tuning, but I've also never played a shortscale so I don't know what the tension is like. You need a lot of tension to keep notes tight. A compressor would also help.
 
#29
GLLabelle said:
Thanks for all the help guys. The problem I'm experiencing now is lack of inventory in the stores I've visited. It seems that Ottawa area bassists don't need near as much selection as guiatarists!

The only sets I've found with a heavier guage than .105 (other than the EB power slinky's I'm replacing) are long scale, would this be problematic for the Schecter? It's not a short scale neck but is considerably shorter than my L2K.
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Try [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

if you buy a few packs at once it works out pretty well, even having them sent from the states. It's mostly what I use for strings now since bass strings are 20-30% more expensive locally.
 
#31
GLLabelle said:
Thanks for the tip Megadan, I may need to resort to ordering a few different types to see what works. I called every shop in the Ottawa area yesterday and finally realized why I settled on EB Power Slinkys all those years ago.....it's all anyone carries around here!
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Is there no shop that offers to sell individual strings? You can get exactly what you need for your tuning that way.
 
#33
Vancouver is just as bad......I can never find what I need when I need it, and none of the shops in town would bring me in the string guages I wanted. I now order all my strings from down south, parts too for that matter.

I spend most of my time in lower tunings, especially C, and I agree with Knuckle Head on almost all points. If your are playing in drop C you will definately need more mass on the lowest string. I would recommend finding a source for individual strings, and experiment with different guages until you find the right set for your playing style. Personally, I have a have an agressive fingerstyle and preffer my strings a little on the hefty side, and would recommend .130-.110-.090-.070 if your bass is 34" scale.

If your having a problem sourcing strings, I would recommend calling SIT. They have always been very gracious and accomadating at putting together custom sets for me.

Good luck on your search in the land of us forgotten bassists.:hmm:
 
#34
A suggestion - and self-engrandizement - the gauges and balance recommendations I have been and will be making are available from the Circle K site. These balance suggestions may or may not be available as sets from other manufacturers, but gauges in close proximity to those I specify will get you equally as close regardless of who winds them.

I realize that faith in a new thing is a tough hurdle, and internet sourcing usually is more expensive than going to the corner music store, but I have done my homework. I make a good product. What I do works for a number of very good reasons.
 
#35
PSPookie said:
So, I am using a set of extra light strings on my shortscale bass and tuning to drop A. I'm playing a 1000W SS head through a 1x10 with all the mids scooped and the bass and treble dimed. I just don't have to seem any punch or clarity and I can't seem to cut through the mix to be heard. Also my strings feel floppy.

I don't get it. Can someone help me out, but I'm not interested in hearing any fancy explanations that involve "physics" and whatnot. I just want to sound BROOTAL.
Click to expand...

:D:spit:
 
#36
BTW, I know we've been over this, but I think Burlington was right in the sense that DR DDTs would be better than your average set of strings for "drop tuning". Sure, matching your string gauges to your needs is ideal, but if you're some d00d who just wants a pack of strings that will, across the board, downtune more gracefully, DDTs are a good recommendation.
 

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