I've been doing my own setups for 25 years and, by now, consider myself a pro at it. I always detune slightly first. So, although there may not be 10 pro ways, there are at least 2.
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Dumb question?
- Thread starter Chad Bennett
- Start date
This Fender guy leaves it at tension even for vintage style. He made me cringe when he retightened the neck pushing down on the instrument.
I've made the mistake of giving my opinion on this forum and had backlash. I learned my lesson though. There are pros, they know what they're doing and their advice should be taken for what it is: professional advice. The manual says something. True and the pros who could probably have written that manual are telling you something too. I just wish there was a definitive list of the pros usernames on here so we can all know who to listen to.
I have no issue with the pros advice.
I do have issue with their issue with the user manual. It doesn't invalidate what they know. But it doesn't mean the manuals advice is bad for a user either. They apparently do not agree. Oh well.
I used to have a bass that was difficult to get the truss rod to budge without loosening the strings. I forget what it was but it was a cheapo. Most basses are quite easy to adjust with strings at tension, though, so why bother with it? But I really don't think it matters. And with respect to my old friend Bongo (that's what I call bassbenj...old joke), I've had settling-in problems on necks occasionally regardless of whether I adjusted them at tension or not. Some necks are just goofy like that and might require follow-up tweaking.
So my ruling is that while scatabrain may have overstated the "danger" of adjusting a truss rod at tension, it may make the process take longer than it would if you leave it at tension but I don't think it hurts it. I'm not a pro luthier but I've done my own setups since 1977 so I am to be admired
So my ruling is that while scatabrain may have overstated the "danger" of adjusting a truss rod at tension, it may make the process take longer than it would if you leave it at tension but I don't think it hurts it. I'm not a pro luthier but I've done my own setups since 1977 so I am to be admired
okcrum
in your chest
I hold the body between my legs and pull back on the neck to relieve tension on the truss rod(s) for adjustments. The strings stay at tension, and then I retune if necessary.
Many heel adjusted necks are easier with the pick guard off. I leave the strings under tension for those too.
Many heel adjusted necks are easier with the pick guard off. I leave the strings under tension for those too.
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Ok, here you go:
FIRST: Use the exact fitting tool and at the correct angle. Close is not good enough. A little sideways because a string is in your way is not good enough. You might have to loosen string tension for that reason right there. If you don't have the correct tool, go buy one. Reason why, the truss rod is the most important thing on a bass and you DON'T RISK damaging the nut.
SECOND: Make sure the nut turns smoothly in either direction without much force. String tension is fine, It's mostly irrelevant. Once you know that you can turn it back and forth an 1/8th of a turn you are golden. (this is called "breaking the nut" but it just means making sure it isn't siezed up)
IF NUT TURNS SMOOTHLY: From the original position rotate it about a 1/4 turn or less at a time, retuning (if necessary) and checking relief.
IF NUT IS STUCK: Shoot a tiny amount of WD-40 in there. Give it a while to penetrate and try again this time gently bending the neck in the direction you want it to go. The tension you relieve is minimal but to "break" the nut free you want everything working in your favor. Remember necks are flexible by design. It is ok to GENTLY flex them, but DON'T FORCE anything.
IF NUT IS STILL STUCK: Don't apply any more force than a 2 year old could. If it doesn't move take it to a qualified pro. Let them apply force and be responsible for damages. That's what they are there for. The best thing you can do to help them is to not damage your bass in any way by using improperly fitting tools or excessive force and stripping anything.
.
.
.
Helpful tip: Throw a few packets of silica gel inside your case/gig bag. They remove moisture which helps prevent oxidation from starting in the first place. You can also put several of them on the dashboard of your car window to prevent interior window fogging/frosting in the winter.
FIRST: Use the exact fitting tool and at the correct angle. Close is not good enough. A little sideways because a string is in your way is not good enough. You might have to loosen string tension for that reason right there. If you don't have the correct tool, go buy one. Reason why, the truss rod is the most important thing on a bass and you DON'T RISK damaging the nut.
SECOND: Make sure the nut turns smoothly in either direction without much force. String tension is fine, It's mostly irrelevant. Once you know that you can turn it back and forth an 1/8th of a turn you are golden. (this is called "breaking the nut" but it just means making sure it isn't siezed up)
IF NUT TURNS SMOOTHLY: From the original position rotate it about a 1/4 turn or less at a time, retuning (if necessary) and checking relief.
IF NUT IS STUCK: Shoot a tiny amount of WD-40 in there. Give it a while to penetrate and try again this time gently bending the neck in the direction you want it to go. The tension you relieve is minimal but to "break" the nut free you want everything working in your favor. Remember necks are flexible by design. It is ok to GENTLY flex them, but DON'T FORCE anything.
IF NUT IS STILL STUCK: Don't apply any more force than a 2 year old could. If it doesn't move take it to a qualified pro. Let them apply force and be responsible for damages. That's what they are there for. The best thing you can do to help them is to not damage your bass in any way by using improperly fitting tools or excessive force and stripping anything.
.
.
.
Helpful tip: Throw a few packets of silica gel inside your case/gig bag. They remove moisture which helps prevent oxidation from starting in the first place. You can also put several of them on the dashboard of your car window to prevent interior window fogging/frosting in the winter.
Hopkins
Commercial User
When he pushed the neck back into the pocket? I didn't see anything cringe worthy. I think you may think of a bass as something that is much more delicate that it really is.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Well, I don't have an issue with them advising to loosen strings, even though it is totally unnecessary. I do have issue with them promoting the myth of only adjusting 1/4 turn at a time and letting the neck settle. That is total nonsense, and holds no truth at all. Just adjust the relief until its in spec and if it needs to be re adjusted in an hour or so you can do so then. I also don't really agree with their spec of .012" to .014" of relief, .008 to .010 will result in a nicer playing instrument.
Makes sense. Thanks for the info.
Not really sure the others' push against my post was so strong except that i know sometimes long term forum users get defensive quickly when they see repeat topics and ideas come and go from new and different posters.
There is another thread where the same guy against my suggestion is defending a non luthier who tinkered with a truss rod first instead of seeking a luthier or asking for a refund without the tinkering.
No one has called anyone stupid yet. That puts TB way ahead in civility to other forums. Really learning a lot here.
Not really sure the others' push against my post was so strong except that i know sometimes long term forum users get defensive quickly when they see repeat topics and ideas come and go from new and different posters.
There is another thread where the same guy against my suggestion is defending a non luthier who tinkered with a truss rod first instead of seeking a luthier or asking for a refund without the tinkering.
No one has called anyone stupid yet. That puts TB way ahead in civility to other forums. Really learning a lot here.
Hopkins
Commercial User
The mods do a good job of keeping the peace here. There can be a healthy debate without the need for insults and name calling.
Hopkins
Commercial User
The mods do a good job of keeping the peace here. There can be a healthy debate without the need for insults and name calling.
? No, it's not, really.
And, yes, in truth: If you're doing a trussrod adjustment on an instrument which requires the neck to be removed to access the trussrod, it's a good idea to loosen the strings before the neck screws...
If this idiotic "protocol" was actually executed by professional techs, every repair shop in the world would be out of business by the middle of next week.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Right, I've had a bass come through my shop where someone had completely bottomed out the truss rod and had their neck in a severe back bow. It took three full turns backing off the rod to get the neck into proper relief. It would have taken me 12 days to adjust that neck going by that nonsense. I have had plenty of completely loose truss rod nuts that have been played for years and never adjusted.
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