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Dumb question?

#23
I have never NOT loosened strings at least a bit to tighten a truss rod, move saddles (either way), or raise string height ... with all due respect, I could care less what anyone else (even a luthier, or as referred to above a 'pro') does or doesn't do .. I even go as far in some cases that if taking relief 'out' of the neck, I assist (by hand pressure) the movement with my leg and foot holding the body, and then simply turn the truss rod nut to 'hold' it ... then simply re-tune to examine your results ... just takes a few seconds longer to do this way, and it gives me a much better 'feel' of what is happening during the adjustment ... and yes, that would make me of the 'ounce of prevention' group .. ;)

".. If you're erring on the side of caution it's because you don't know what you're doing. Take it to a pro! ..."

.. naw, after 45+ years, and working on probably 200-300 basses, including many with thin, older, Jazz profile, or potentially problematic necks, I will retain my hack status (never charged any of the dozen folk I have helped, or hung a shingle outside, so not 'pro' status) ... but, not to misguide anyone on TB, maybe I should start sending them (and my'own) to Guitar Center and let what a lot of people consider the 'pro' there crank on their investment the 'right' way ...

.. also respectfully submitted ... with only a bit facetiousness ... ;)
 
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#28
Hopkins said:
The fact of the matter is, string tension is not putting much strain on the threads at all by adjusting relief at string tension. The only time you have to worry about shearing a thread is if the rod is seized or bottomed out. Secondly, properly fitting tools used correctly will not strip out the nut, the rod will break before the nut will strip, and you should never be applying enough force to break a truss rod anyway. Adjusting relief at string tension lets you make a real time adjustment and negates the possibility of the neck moving after adjustment because of a change in string tension. Like I said before, the only reason to loosen a string, is if you cannot get at the nut with the string in place, like on a 5 string instrument where the A string is directly on top of the nut.

202dy and JLS, along with myself are professional techs, we would not give anyone information that would result in them breaking their bass if they follow said information correctly
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Sorry folks I'm going with the manufacturer's recommendations:

"If you find your truss rod needs adjustment, detune the strings first, to relieve
neck tension before making the adjustment, and remember to retune to pitch
before measuring again."

I'll take apologies in the form of Likes. :).
 
#31
Unless I'm doing drastic adjustments, I don't loosen the strings and have never had problems. I only loosen the strings on basses that have the truss rod adjustment at the headstock because the strings would be on the way, and the allen wrench would not turn. This is not a dumb question btw.
 
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#34
guy n. cognito said:
How about that.

My car manual says I should inspect all 4 tires before each time I drive.

Manuals like that are written for the most inexperienced of players that don't and won't learn how to do it right. It probably also says to make a 1/8th turn then wait 24 hours......
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Come on. I found a credible (arguably the most credible) source on the subject written for users not luthiers. That's the crux of this whole discussion.
 
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#35
Michael B said:
Come on. I found a credible (arguably the most credible) source on the subject written for users not luthiers. That's the crux of this whole discussion.
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Nice try. Again, manuals written by lawyers for novices. And it only references the truss rod, not saddles and intonation.

If I'm going to take advice from anyone, its a luthier with thousands of guitars under his belt, not a manual. There's a reason why they suggest doing it the way that they do, that an inexperienced person simply won't understand.

Welcome to TB.
 
#36
guy n. cognito said:
Nice try. Again, manuals written by lawyers for novices. And it only references the truss rod, not saddles and intonation.

If I'm going to take advice from anyone, its a luthier with thousands of guitars under his belt, not a manual. There's a reason why they suggest doing it the way that they do, that an inexperienced person simply won't understand.

Welcome to TB.
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No way. This wasn't written for marketing or legal reasons. I'm out as you can't accept that there are other ways to do pretty much anything. Oh well.

P.s. I do glance at my tires before i drive. And I'm not the only one. They teach this at truck drivers school from what i hear. But you have it your way.
 
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