Dunlop intonation issue has returned?

[Grinderman]

Another update: Now Dunlop is sending sets of 40-100 flats in hopes they don't have the same core wire problem. We shall see...

 

[Just Wrong]

Another update: Now Dunlop is sending sets of 40-100 flats in hopes they don't have the same core wire problem. We shall see...

How was the 40-100 set? I just ordered one and your post has me worried! Thanks.

 

[micguy]

You can blame the issue on the strings, but you can also blame it on the bass not having enough adjustment range. I'd be tempted to work on the bass bridge rather than the strings. A longer intonation adjustment screw will probably fix your problem.

 

[Grinderman]

You can blame the issue on the strings, but you can also blame it on the bass not having enough adjustment range. I'd be tempted to work on the bass bridge rather than the strings. A longer intonation adjustment screw will probably fix your problem.

Opinions:

Or you could simply use literally every other brand and model of strings, even Dunlop's own versions of nickel rounds, and not bother Mickey Mousing around to burnish a turd.

Sure, you can blame Leo Fender too if you want, but if you're open to making your 34" scale bass, 33", or 35" to accommodate a set of strings you're free to do that, good luck.

If you're on the other side of the business running a company that makes strings with that approach or such tolerances, good luck.

Me: There are no strings made on this planet worth it to me to specifically reposition my bridges or get nonstandard longer intonation screws for those hypothetical strings alone. If and when that prospect is presented to me is when I stop using their products.

_________________________________________

Facts:

Not even Dunlop's rep suggested in the slightest way that bridge modification should be necessary to use their strings; some of which they acknowledged as being defective. In this case, defective strings were high-side G which did not intonate correctly up and down the neck regardless.

For the replacement strings that Dunlop sent me and worked--barely--at the bleeding edge of tolerances that still intonate up and down the neck, a longer intonation string could have not solved that problem.

Why, you may ask? Because that wasn't actually the situation. The high-side G-string saddle had to be shoved into the back of the bridge to work, away from, not closer to the nut.

To be clear, literally, every brand and make of strings, other than Dunlop stainless flats, have and do work perfectly fine where Dunlop's flats would not; LaBella, GHS, and Rotosound to name just a few--all play perfectly fine with my basses and Leo Fender's four-saddle bridge assembly.

I don't blame the rep at Dunlop. He didn't make the strings himself but he did try to help me through the situation. It was an engineering and production problem. I wasn't trying to be a Karen about it. I was simply trying to get strings that worked properly and send a buyer-beware notice to TBers.

That was a full year ago. Does Dunlop continue to have a problem producing their stainless flats now? Beats me, how would I know?

 

[Just Wrong]

Opinions:

Or you could simply use literally every other brand and model of strings, even Dunlop's own versions of nickel rounds, and not bother Mickey Mousing around to burnish a turd.

Sure, you can blame Leo Fender too if you want, but if you're open to making your 34" scale bass, 33", or 35" to accommodate a set of strings you're free to do that, good luck.

If you're on the other side of the business running a company that makes strings with that approach or such tolerances, good luck.

Me: There are no strings made on this planet worth it to me to specifically reposition my bridges or get nonstandard longer intonation screws for those hypothetical strings alone. If and when that happens is when I stop using their products.

_________________________________________

Facts:

Not even Dunlop's rep suggested in the slightest way that bridge modification should be necessary to use their strings; some of which they acknowledged as being defective. In this case, defective strings were high-side G which did not intonate correctly up and down the neck regardless.

For the replacement strings that Dunlop sent me and worked--barely--at the bleeding edge of tolerances that still intonate up and down the neck, a longer intonation string could have not solved that problem.

Why, you may ask? Because that wasn't actually the situation. The high-side G-string saddle had to be shoved into the back of the bridge to work, away from, not closer to the nut.

To be clear, literally, every brand and make of strings, other than Dunlop stainless flats, have and do work perfectly fine where Dunlop's flats would not; LaBella, GHS, and Rotosound to name just a few--all play perfectly fine with my basses and Leo Fender's four-saddle bridge assembly.

That was a full year ago. Does Dunlop continue to have a problem producing their stainless flats now? Beats me, how would I know?

So the 40 G did not work either?

 

[Grinderman]

So the 40 G did not work either?

It did but barely. They were at the bleeding extreme edge of acceptable tolerance, requiring the bridge saddle to be slammed back too close to the tail of the bridge.

The compromise on string gauges and loose strings wasn't acceptable to me either, but that's a separate externality from what I was dealing with regarding Dunlop not having suitable available replacements in the correct gauge for me.

Note that this all happened a full year ago, or slightly more than that.

The only way can know now is try them and find out. I've moved on.

 

[micguy]

Opinions:

Or you could simply use literally every other brand and model of strings, even Dunlop's own versions of nickel rounds, and not bother Mickey Mousing around to burnish a turd.

Sure, you can blame Leo Fender too if you want, but if you're open to making your 34" scale bass, 33", or 35" to accommodate a set of strings you're free to do that, good luck.

If you're on the other side of the business running a company that makes strings with that approach or such tolerances, good luck.

Me: There are no strings made on this planet worth it to me to specifically reposition my bridges or get nonstandard longer intonation screws for those hypothetical strings alone. If and when that prospect is presented to me is when I stop using their products.

_________________________________________

Facts:

Not even Dunlop's rep suggested in the slightest way that bridge modification should be necessary to use their strings; some of which they acknowledged as being defective. In this case, defective strings were high-side G which did not intonate correctly up and down the neck regardless.

For the replacement strings that Dunlop sent me and worked--barely--at the bleeding edge of tolerances that still intonate up and down the neck, a longer intonation string could have not solved that problem.

Why, you may ask? Because that wasn't actually the situation. The high-side G-string saddle had to be shoved into the back of the bridge to work, away from, not closer to the nut.

To be clear, literally, every brand and make of strings, other than Dunlop stainless flats, have and do work perfectly fine where Dunlop's flats would not; LaBella, GHS, and Rotosound to name just a few--all play perfectly fine with my basses and Leo Fender's four-saddle bridge assembly.

I don't blame the rep at Dunlop. He didn't make the strings himself but he did try to help me through the situation. It was an engineering and production problem. I wasn't trying to be a Karen about it. I was simply trying to get strings that worked properly and send a buyer-beware notice to TBers.

That was a full year ago. Does Dunlop continue to have a problem producing their stainless flats now? Beats me, how would I know?

You could have ordered a longer adjustment screw in the time it took to type all that. Just sayin’

 

[Grinderman]

You could have ordered a longer adjustment screw in the time it took to type all that. Just sayin’

Reading and listening may not be your thing; that's okay.

No longer screws are needed here, but you can take your screw and do as you please with it. Short enough?

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Take your screw and do as you please with it. Short enough?

You didn’t ask me either, but if a string set doesn’t work for you, so be it! Others have reported issues with Dunlops, I and others have not. Your point is made. The rest of you suggesting extreme measures/mods to MAKE the strings work should shut it. If you really think that BILLIONS of strings don’t have a single problem that comes close to this issue, let’s think really hard, does a bass need to be modified to make strings work, or are the strings the core of the issue,,,, HMMM?

 

[micguy]

27499225[/URL], member: 254972"]Reading and listening may not be your thing; that's okay.

No longer screws are needed here, but you can take your screw and do as you please with it. Short enough?

Message received - you don’t want advice, no matter how helpful. Got it..

 

[Grinderman]

Message received - you d9n’t wan advice, mo matter how helpful. Got it..

No, you don't got it, still. Your advice isn't helpful; technically it's the opposite of helpful. If you would bother to read, instead of assuming or guessing, perhaps you would realize why.

That's all up to you. I don't care if you do.

 

[Grinderman]

You didn’t ask me either, but if a string set doesn’t work for you, so be it! Others have reported issues with Dunlops, I and others have not. Your point is made. The rest of you suggesting extreme measures/mods to MAKE the strings work should shut it. If you really think that BILLIONS of strings don’t have a single problem that comes close to this issue, let’s think really hard, does a bass need to be modified to make strings work, or are the strings the core of the issue,,,, HMMM?

That's how I see it, and according to the Dunlop rep, that's how they see it too.

Darryl at Dunlop told me so quite clearly. Dunlop has had issues with core wire; he said so.

I hope Dunlop solved it and I hope it works out fine for @Just Wrong.

 

[micguy]

No, you don't got it, still. Your advice isn't helpful; technically it's the opposite of helpful. If you would bother to read, instead of assuming or guessing, perhaps you would realize why.

That's all up to you. I don't care if you do.

I read your original post. You ran out of adjustment range on a string - you need the bridge saddle to be closer to the nut. On most bridges, the adjustment screws are short enough that there is room left on the baseplate - a longer adjustment screw takes advantage of that. I’m proposing a simple, straightforward way out of your dilemma. You’re fixated on complaining about strings. You seem to enjoy that, so go ahead and do you.

 

[Grinderman]

I read your original post. You ran out of adjustment range on a string - you need the bridge saddle to be closer to the nut. On most bridges, the adjustment screws are short enough that there is room left on the baseplate - a longer adjustment screw takes advantage of that. I’m proposing a simple, straightforward way out of your dilemma. You’re fixated on complaining about strings. You seem to enjoy that, so go ahead and do you.

You read it, eh? Questionable.

Fixated, indeed. Yikes... Are you okay?





Here's a visual aid in case anyone might be challenged with reading comprehension.

Look at the G string and notice the bridge saddle is all the way back.

In this position, that was the CLOSEST the defective G string from Dunlop could get to intonation--NOT actually achieving intonation because the string, was part of a larger production batch of defective strings according to Dunlop.

You could put 6" long intonation screw on that if you'd like but that would not fix the defective string.

 

[Grinderman]

How was the 40-100 set? I just ordered one and your post has me worried! Thanks.

Since I stopped using these strings a year ago, but you inquired here, maybe ask micguy. They've got advice.

 

[micguy]

You read it, eh? Questionable.

Quoting your original post:

"The bridge saddle won’t adjust far enough forward (toward the pickups). "

I was helping you with the problem you said you had. Seems you have the opposite problem.

 

[Grinderman]

Quoting your original post:

"The bridge saddle won’t adjust far enough forward (toward the pickups). "

I was helping you with the problem you said you had. Seems you have the opposite problem.

Once again, you're mistaken.

Dunlop intonation issue has returned?

You're quoting someone else with another problem on an entirely different make and model of bass, with a different line of strings from Dunlop, from three years ago.

On the simplest visual level, how does one confuse this

with this

, I mean unless they're visually impaired? Just askin'.

 

[Grinderman]

Please just leave me out of this from here on out. I don't use Dunlop strings now and everything has been just ducky ever since.

Thank you and good luck to everyone.

 

[Tim Skaggs]

Quoting your original post:

"The bridge saddle won’t adjust far enough forward (toward the pickups). "

I was helping you with the problem you said you had. Seems you have the opposite problem.

That would be my post you are quoting regarding my experience with the D & A strings of Dunlop Super Brights. @Grinderman has consistently said he didn’t have enough adjustment moving the saddle away from the pickups to achieve intonation of the G string in the set(s) of Dunlop flats he’s been discussing.

Two different types of strings, two different manifestations of the same problem; intonation.
Two solutions to the problem; 1. modify the bass bridge with a longer screw (wouldn’t work on my Spirit by Steinberger bass. The bridge saddle dropped off the baseplate of the bridge before the string would properly achieve intonation. 2. Buy a string brand other than Dunlop.
I’ve been picking solution 2 since I started this thread in 2020. It has worked well and I don’t have any non-original parts on my bass(es).