I'd just buy a used 5HH and pocket the change personally
But if that's the finish you really want and you can afford it, then...
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EBMM StingRay Special Club
- Thread starter MultiScaleMale
- Start date
But if that's the finish you really want and you can afford it, then...
If for some reason, God forbid, I had to selling my basses, my MoonBeam BFR would be the last to go. It sounds that good . My Crescendo isn’t far behind it. They both just really sing !!! Coin toss really!!
Thanks for all the feedback. I was really looking for the 30th Anniversary, but this model came up. I agree the sound it would be the same maybe a little bit snappier as it has a standard maple neck and board, not the rosted maple.
I have this Stingray Special 5H on the way from Pitbull Audio. I owned one identical to this about 6-7 years ago and I’ve regretted selling it ever since. This is my favorite color combo they’ve offered on these over the years.
A few questions for other SR Special owners:
Did anyone’s SR Special need a fret leveling when you got it?
Is there any added benefit to shielding the cavities of these basses?
Did any of you have to add Loctite to the saddle height screws?
My previous SR Special came PLEK’d from Sweetwater. The new one I have coming hasn't received any additional work. I also remember needing to add Loctite to the saddle height screws on my previous SR Special because they would spin on their own every time I did a string change.
Did anyone’s SR Special need a fret leveling when you got it?
Is there any added benefit to shielding the cavities of these basses?
Did any of you have to add Loctite to the saddle height screws?
My previous SR Special came PLEK’d from Sweetwater. The new one I have coming hasn't received any additional work. I also remember needing to add Loctite to the saddle height screws on my previous SR Special because they would spin on their own every time I did a string change.
1. No. The fretwork on my 5HH Special was perfect when I got it.
2. No. Mine is quiet and my house has old wiring and new LED lights.
3. No. They have stayed the same since I adjusted the action, etc. after it arrived. The only thing I have needed to do is a truss rod tweak twice a year (spring/fall)
Same. Perfect fretwork, no need for additional shielding, and once I gave the bass my preferred strings and setup it has been perfect. I haven’t even needed to touch the truss rod on mine since I got it dialed in late last year.
I haven't had any need for anything you mentioned but I have read from a few users about saddle screws moving/bottoming some got new ones from EB some used locktite
No extra shielding needed on mine (none of my Stingrays ever have), I don't think Loctite is needed so far (glad I caught the autocorrected Lactate....
) , the frets and action felt fine and still do.I know I'm not as studious about the action settings as you guys are (our MS Bassist Consortium members....
), so I'm curious for "our" guitar guy" to see it and let me know what it needs after 2 years.(same about my M5V and the incoming AM Pro II P5....
)
Mine had one high fret that was a quick fix, just allowed to have slightly lower action but wasn't crazy
No issues or concerns with any of the 10 EBMM basses that I’ve owned. None!!!
Brandon Shea
Commercial User
My frets were level, but my SR Special developed some fret sprout during the winter that I had fixed professionally. Obviously they gave it a good setup while it was there, and it's been incredible ever since.
No noise issues whatsoever; my SR Special is as quiet as my Sire P8. Most of my other basses tend to pick up a lot of noise in certain parts of the house, and it's really nice not having to worry about it.
No Loctite needed at this point, although my bass is still relatively new. Fingers crossed that I never have to worry about it!
I played a couple of EBMM Stingray Special basses recently and they had no noise issues.
Does anyone have any pics they could share of the cavity of a 5HH? I'm thinking of doing a mod to mine, and want to know how much room is in there for another pot. Thanks in advance.
On the 5ers, if I go from 130,100,80..... to 135, 105, 85, will I need to do anything to the nut, or should the bigger strings be able to fit right in and alternate back and forth whenever with ease?
My experience is that the heavier gauges will pop into the nut rather than drop in. I did not detect any binding, but I guess it may be possible. If I were going this route long term, I would file the nut a bit, but I just didn’t see the benefit from the heavier gauges.
I recently Plek'd my Stingray 5 Special. Here's the before picture. It had some high frets at the end of the neck and because I use low/medium action and my attack is hard, they would buzz more than ordinary. After been Plek'd I can it hit it as it supposed to be and there's no buzz
I'll find the "after" and post here later.
It's natural to have some part of the wood move in single-piece necks. Not a big deal. Not happy to pay some extra for it and hoped that EBMM would Plek at the factory but I don't plan to ever sell this bass so it will pay itself with time.
