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Egmond Rambler & Typhoon bass projects

#61
MCF said:
That’s a cool bass Geo!
Click to expand...

I scored - it just proves that if you are patient and keep what you seek in the front part of your awareness, whether it be a life goal or simply a want - it makes it more possible to eventually achieve.
 
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#62
One issue is the damage to the neck just below the first fret. (disclosed and acknowledged) Once again a mystery as to why something like this happened. (a hungry badger?) Fairly deep, but it'll just mean filing/sanding/leveling the neck profile to even it out. It's already a fairly comfortable profile, but it'll end up being more so after addressing. I doubt it will have an adverse affect on stability doing so. Oh, and by the way, the (thin) 24 banjo frets are in VGC and the neck is pretty straight. The tr moves but is tight (needs lube) but I won't get full info until stringing it up. The neck being straight is a good start.

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#63
JIO said:
One issue is the damage to the neck just below the first fret. (disclosed and acknowledged) Once again a mystery as to why something like this happened. (a hungry badger?)
Click to expand...
Is that about where it sits on the case? Looks plausible when I skip pack to the in-case picture. So possibly/probably chewed up by the case neck rest. Or getting out of the case neck rest and finding that nailhead.
 
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#64
T_Bone_TL said:
Is that about where it sits on the case? Looks plausible when I skip pack to the in-case picture. So possibly/probably chewed up by the case neck rest. Or getting out of the case neck rest and finding that nailhead.
Click to expand...

Sure enough - that's exactly where the wear is. Which is puzzling... to effect that level of wear, it's like it was on a roller-coaster for a week loosely bouncing around in the case! Or on a stage coach being chased by renegades over the landscape! The wood cradle is still covered with the velour material but the material is thin.

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#65
I discovered a problem with the electronics - everything looks clean, but it's not fully working. It has a 3-click rotary which is the pu selector, 2 pu's (N&B), two pots (50K V & 1M T), and a two way toggle-switch. All wire is braided, and it didn't have a capacitor so I installed a 2233pF orange drop - but it has a 3,9K resistor which relates to the two-way toggle switch. No bridge ground-wire either.

The neck pu does not respond in its N-pu setting, or its N&B pu setting on the rotary switch. The bridge pu responds in its B-pu setting and B&N pu setting. I multi-metered both pu's and they both read 8.5 so it appears the N-pu is good. When I got it the V pot right tang wasn't grounded to the pot-top - so I added a ground wire there. That and adding the cap.

I studied the rotary switch and it appears to be in order but that seems to be the only part responsible - some sort of inability to connect the pu with the system. I went ahead and ordered a new rotary switch.

upload_2024-2-19_19-23-10.jpeg



upload_2024-2-19_21-7-21.jpeg
 
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#66
Started working on the case and the neck. A good cleaning removed a layer of dirt/grime and I glued & taped all loose vinyl down. One edge had a long wood split so I forced wood-glue into it and taped it down. For the corners that all had exposed wood, I taped around the and flooded then with epoxy. This (out of focus - sorry!) corner was the worst one so once it cures I'll use Bondo to fill the deep voids and even it out. I started with epoxy because it'll adhere to the wood better and hold the splintered wood together - Bondo is primarily for filling voids and not structural. Once that's done I have black satin enamel that will make them all disappear, and after that a rub-down with ArmorAll. The case needed attention but wasn't in too bad shape and it should look pretty good for its age when done. Still raining so no airing out the musty smell until the sun comes out.

upload_2024-2-20_15-58-50.jpeg

For the neck, I used a rasp to do the heavy-lifting of removing finish & wood down to where the gouge was. After that it was filing and sanding. All & all, it's pretty seamless now and feels good as it's a bit shallower in depth, which I prefer. The wood grain looks a lot like oak, but it is beech and similar to oak and maple, it's pretty hard. Good wood for a neck. My '85 Czech made Jolana Discobas has a beech fb.
upload_2024-2-20_16-13-26.jpeg

I sanded the gloss finish dull and because it was thick (poly?) I didn't remove the serial #.
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The original silver side dots were painted on using silver paint - I installed aluminum side position dots which have become a favorite since owning my Dano made Coral Deluxe Bass.
upload_2024-2-20_16-19-23.jpeg

And finally - I applied a 1st coat of 'classic oak' alkyd stain & primer. I know there are new water-based products out there, but call me 'old-school' when it comes to clear-coats. I'll probably do two more brushed-on coats with emory-cloth sanding between coats. The body is next - it's also in pretty good condition so it'll be a matter of level-sanding the original 'low-tech' finish and starting the craqueleur process. I still have a rattle can of black and red from my Silvertone Hornet craqueleur finish, which will get me the desired textured effect - and over that I'll spray Fiesta Red. It's going to be sharp!
upload_2024-2-20_16-21-21.jpeg
 
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#67
Beech is wildly under-appreciated, at least in the US. Thus, many suppliers carry none, which then makes it hard to gain the appreciation it deserves...

I suppose someone who lives near a Budwiser brewery and likes to laminate could try dealing with the aftermath of their "beechwood aging" process...which I seem to vaguely recall involves some thin boards dumped in a stainless steel vat.
 
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#68
JIO said:
One issue is the damage to the neck just below the first fret. (disclosed and acknowledged) Once again a mystery as to why something like this happened. (a hungry badger?) Fairly deep, but it'll just mean filing/sanding/leveling the neck profile to even it out. It's already a fairly comfortable profile, but it'll end up being more so after addressing. I doubt it will have an adverse affect on stability doing so. Oh, and by the way, the (thin) 24 banjo frets are in VGC and the neck is pretty straight. The tr moves but is tight (needs lube) but I won't get full info until stringing it up. The neck being straight is a good start.

View attachment 5354648
Click to expand...
It banged up against something. Hard.
 
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#70
JIO said:
Yes, many reasons to take it on. Mostly cosmetic fixes far as I can tell. The back of the neck (which the seller assured was straight) has a pretty substantial boo-boo but I'll be refinishing it anyway. I'll know more once it arrives.

more Egmond info - Egmond Bass

View attachment 5345302 View attachment 5345303
Here's a pristine example on Reverb - Fiesta Red looks like very good choice - Egmond Typhoon 2EBS1 JAGUAR 1969s - Red | Reverb Being a 34"scale bass, I may run into a problem finding strings long enough as there is a lot of real estate between the bridge and the stop.
View attachment 5345310 View attachment 5345326
Click to expand...

Those strings may be hard to find but they exist. I can find strings for my Gretsch 6070 and 6072 basses.
 
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#73
JIO said:
I discovered a problem with the electronics - everything looks clean, but it's not fully working. It has a 3-click rotary which is the pu selector, 2 pu's (N&B), two pots (50K V & 1M T), and a two way toggle-switch. All wire is braided, and it didn't have a capacitor so I installed a 2233pF orange drop - but it has a 3,9K resistor which relates to the two-way toggle switch. No bridge ground-wire either.

The neck pu does not respond in its N-pu setting, or its N&B pu setting on the rotary switch. The bridge pu responds in its B-pu setting and B&N pu setting. I multi-metered both pu's and they both read 8.5 so it appears the N-pu is good. When I got it the V pot right tang wasn't grounded to the pot-top - so I added a ground wire there. That and adding the cap.

I studied the rotary switch and it appears to be in order but that seems to be the only part responsible - some sort of inability to connect the pu with the system. I went ahead and ordered a new rotary switch.

View attachment 5357934


View attachment 5357986
Click to expand...

Holy cow! When I got my first bass (Japanese Jaguar) from Woolco, an Egmond like this was the only other bass in the store, and it was pink and vinyl-covered like this one. I had never heard of Egmond and was put off by the color and the vinyl and the (lack of) set-up. I passed. A more mature me might have made a different decision.
 
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#75
adje said:
So in 1975 my older brother wanted to play bass, and our dad had a friend who lent us a proper Hofner violin bass for a few weeks. After that, dad found the exact same green Egmond for sale somewhere, same headstock shape like in the picture. We never knew it was called a Rambler, but there you go. My brother and I cut our teeth on it, then at some point the body got swapped for a homebrew dual cutaway job with go-faster stripes, and that old body must be sitting in my parents' attic.
I remember the green finish is matt and has a slightly rough texture. In hindsight, it must have been a regular shortscale, I don't think it was under 30" but I can't be sure. We had Pyramid Gold flats on it.
upload_2023-12-18_12-43-36-png.5287970
Click to expand...
1st Macca’s Hoftner is found in an attic & now your Egmund Rambler.
 
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#80
So today, I sanded the body. I think it must have had at least a poly-acrylic clear-coat, because sanding it did not produce 'dust'. Instead, thin ropey strands. Using a flat-board with 100grit emory-cloth I got the 'orange-peal' texture to smooth w/o removing much of the original white finish. Maybe someone added a clear-coat later? Anyway - although it was an elbow-grease time consuming process, I got it done. I used super-glue to fill the few divits and am ready to start the cracqueleur finish. The rotary-switch arrived today (fast!) so there's that too. (tomorrow) Rain has subsided for now so maybe tomorrow will be a good day to continue.

Oh… and I did more work on the case which will be aired outside tomorrow to reduce the musty smell...
 
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