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Egmond Rambler & Typhoon bass projects

Installed the new rotary switch - same result. I'm stumped for now.

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Are those bare jumpers shorting to ground? They look -really- close. Especially the one going around the nut.

Rick

both are close but both clear. Everything works as it did before; B-pu works in its click and both pu's click. No response from the N-pu but it read 8.5, the same as the B-pu.
 
Let the process begin!

As it has a natural split of top to back, I taped off the back/sides to do one at a time.
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I picked this colour to see how it looks - it will get the crackle coating in 45mins of spraying this base-color. I have black crackle left over so it will be black w/yellow crackle. Over that I will spray a fiesta-like red. On this finish, I don't want two colours - I want it homogenous, a textured red finish. I'm referencing Egmond bodies covered with textured vinyl, and using the same technique as on '60s Dano's.
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Just to see how it looks - the cool thing about this technique using these high-end rattle-cans with a plethora of art colours/shades is a boat-load of possible combinations. I'll file this one as a future candidate.

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Blood Orange - just after coating. It cures to a semi-gloss/matte sheen and once complexly done and fully cured I'll shoot satin lacquer clear on top.
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that's the ticket!
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Fantastic
Just to see how it looks - the cool thing about this technique using these high-end rattle-cans with a plethora of art colours/shades is a boat-load of possible combinations. I'll file this one as a future candidate.

View attachment 5362381
Blood Orange - just after coating. It cures to a semi-gloss/matte sheen and once complexly done and fully cured I'll shoot satin lacquer clear on top.
View attachment 5362377

View attachment 5362387

View attachment 5362411
that's the ticket!
View attachment 5362423
 
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Looking at it 1/2 done I'm thinking about matching the original creamy white colour on the back, similarly textured like the front w/glitter dusting. I've used that look before sans crackle - It would look sharp with the silver dividing trim and align visually with the pearloid -

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This one was split and the back was bronze-black/brown w/dusting -
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I routed-in a strip of tort binding to divide the finishes -
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Addressed the 'potato-chipped' hs-face pearloid today. Set it face down on a flat board, first cardboard and the paper on the back - ironed it until hot, and clamped a thick acrylic sheet tight against it. Multiple passes letting it cool and re-heat until flat and ready to glue down. Just to be on the safe side - I used epoxy and clamped it tight.

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Before;
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after... tomorrow ;)
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after... as much as I was able to flatten it out, I have no control over shrinkage. So it's not a flush-fit, more a compromise to have a general alignment. I could file/sand the edges of the hs to re-align with the pearloid... or I could just leave it as an acknowledgement of the result of time just like its amber-ing. I'm thinking about it.

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after... as much as I was able to flatten it out, I have no control over shrinkage. So it's not a flush-fit, more a compromise to have a general alignment. I could file/sand the edges of the hs to re-align with the pearloid... or I could just leave it as an acknowledgement of the result of time just like its amber-ing. I'm thinking about it.

View attachment 5364384
If I were going to buy it Geo, I would ask you file and sand it. That’s just me.
 
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