I'd be afraid of checkered binding. Probably lay awake at night waiting for John Hall and his minions of legal beagles to line up and extract their pound of flesh.
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EUB project
- Thread starter JIO
- Start date
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
This forum has turned me from painting switches white with a brush, to full on clean mods, repairs, and setups. Just another facet of playing an instrument that makes it impossible to give up.I love the checkered binding on Rics - it's not on all of them but is part of its iconic look. As the maple character on my UEB thing is so outstanding, I feel a simple (black or creme) would better harmonize with it visually. (as in, wouldn't compete with more visual 'chatter') Works great in your posted pic because the wood is pretty subdued/neutral in character. Thanks as always for your interest and input - you are part of what makes our little corner special!
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Most things are possible if you are patient, determined and focused even if you've never done it (whatever it is) before. Oh, and you also have to be prepared for failure and have a willingness to learn from it and push beyond it, and for success and the personal satisfaction when that occurs. (again, creme binding pieces are all I have - I'm going with black that I now need to order from Stew Mac)
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
On to the gluing stage - used a biscuit-joiner, #10 biscuits and 1hr set/24hr cure epoxy. The longer set time gives you much more control and I'm told it's a stronger bond. Could have rigged a system to glue both sides simultaneously but decided to do one at a time. Also drilled and tapped the neck holes and glued (same epoxy) in threaded steel mollies. I used to use the more commonly available brass inserts and always had issues related so switched to this much better system. You have a few more steps to take but the end result is worth it - which is more dynamic/solid/tight connection of the neck to the body. It's what I'll use from now on.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I'm glad I didn't attach the other wing as I will first need to do some routing on the back of that loose piece for controls and jack. I will use a (black) Strat-jack boat inverted which will put the plug at a shallow angle below the top. I'll need to open the hole up for a barrel-jack, but I've determined it's do-able. The maple body is less than an inch now after sanding so 3/4" is my cavity limit, which will be sufficient for my needs. I'll also cut a black (pg material) control-plate with room for 3 pots. V/T to begin with but no pre-amp/battery this time. I'll decide on a possible 3rd pot but leave the center hole un-drilled to begin with.
A very cool EUB from 1939 (! - a Ric maybe judging by the pu) posted ion a concurrent tread by @swarfrat - I like the simplicity of the angled P-like pu's. Food for thought.
A very cool EUB from 1939 (! - a Ric maybe judging by the pu) posted ion a concurrent tread by @swarfrat - I like the simplicity of the angled P-like pu's. Food for thought.
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Your EUB is looking fantastic!A very cool EUB from 1939 (! - a Ric maybe judging by the pu) posted ion a concurrent tread by @swarfrat - I like the simplicity of the angled P-like pu's. Food for thought.
As for the Rickenbacker: Cool indeed! I looked it up and from this Wiki:
Rickenbacker electric upright bass (1935), Amplifier (mid 1930s), Console piano, Museum of Making Music
“The Rickenbacker Bass, 1935. Rickenbacker's George Beauchamp thought acoustic sound chambers were unnecessary. This upright magnetic horseshoe up is split into two section to accommodate the curvature of the fingerboard. In order for the pickup to function properly, the gut strings are wrapped with a fine ferrous or steel wire, that can be magnetized when strings pass between the magnet and the coils.”
Also, from this Invalid Link Removed on George Beauchamp:
He was born in Coleman County, Texas on March 18, 1899. Beauchamp performed in Vaudeville, playing the violin and the lap steel guitar, before he settled in Los Angeles, California. During the 1920s, he experimented with the creation of electric lap steel guitars, electric guitars, electric bass guitars, electric violins, and instrument amplifiers. In 1931 he joined with Paul Barth and Adolph Rickenbacker to form the Ro-Pat-In Corporation to produce and sell electrified string instruments. In 1937 Beauchamp secured a United States patent for the electric guitar.
He died of a heart attack in 1941 while deep-sea fishing near Los Angeles. He was survived by his wife, Myrtle, and two children, Frances and Nolan.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Thanks Neil! Cool info - thanks for posting. So Ric's George B came up with the P-pu way before brother Leo. Not staggered, but looks to be the same size/shape.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Routed the 2 cavities and made a control cavity plate from matte black pg material. I had the perfect knobs for it, made of bakelite which are made in Chicago from the same factory using the same classic pointer design that's been around since at least the 40's-50's and commonly available at Ace Hardware stores! (crazy!) You can get a few different designs, all classic w/tiny adjustment screws to secure them. I ordered a black Strat-jack 'boat', a narrow profile flush mount barrel jack, and black binding from Stew Mac, and black neck ferrules and black string-thru ferrules on ebay. Stew Mac didn't have black sting-thru ferrules (for bass) and the neck attachment ferrules are a nicer design than the ones they sell. I need one more pot (V), I need to make a nut, and I also need to look into extension pegs. And.., I need to drill wire channels for the pu & control cavity wires before gluing the other wing on.
The lower (T) knob is attached - the other needs a pot.
The lower (T) knob is attached - the other needs a pot.
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
A standard upright end-pin isn't what I'll need - but something like this (camera) mono-pod looks like the answer. A bit of removing unneeded parts and developing a 2 part support for the back to secure it is do-able. At 6'1" the extension needs to be somewhere in the 32" length. This one goes to 66.9" and is good for 22lbs. It would be more stable at 32" as each section would only be partially extended. The same design comes in carbon fiber ($$) and although cool is probably pretty much the same as this aluminum one.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,139
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Oh yeah, that would be sweet...
While I'm spending your money, what are you going to do about a case?
I was just getting to that thought myself. The UEB is 42"x9"x 4" so looks like a custom made case is eventually in order.
BassHappy
Supporting Member
I'm glad I didn't attach the other wing as I will first need to do some routing on the back of that loose piece for controls and jack. I will use a (black) Strat-jack boat inverted which will put the plug at a shallow angle below the top. I'll need to open the hole up for a barrel-jack, but I've determined it's do-able.
A very cool EUB from 1939 (! - a Ric maybe judging by the pu) posted ion a concurrent tread by @swarfrat - I like the simplicity of the angled P-like pu's. Food for thought.
Hey JIO
After studying this all week, I came to a solution that will work great for me. I wanted to keep the standard jack, use the Strat boat and definitely stay on the rear of the body. So I ordered a couple of standard Fender enclosed Jacks for my two solid bodies. A friend of mine eyeballed them and said they would fit inside the strat boat, but he didn't try it - so we will see:
Next, I took the boat jack and a pair of hefty pliers to it, using a thick cloth in between. I bent the jack tabs so that the output hole will be straight on, and the jack doesn't need to go but about 3/4" deep now, which will work for me. Forgive my primative drawing. It's the one on the bottom:
This accomplishes two things for me. First of all, I don't have to drill out the hole for the barrel jack, and the jack can now be recessed completely into the body so there will be no discomfort from the jack. I found a place on the body where the carve keeps the cable away from your body too, so it's a win win. I bent a chrome one and while the chrome wrinkled a tiny bit it didn't chip off and is completely acceptable. I used a made in USA Fender one though, not sure what would happen from those from the Far East. So I ordered a couple of black strat boats and I think if I do these really carefully on a vice somewhere they are going to turn out just fine. Of course there will need to be a small pocket rout in front of the jack to insert and remove it.
The other interesting thing, is I can now use the jack in the "normal" position in case the Fender enclosed jack doesn't fit inside the housing.
Either way, I am covered!
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