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Excel spreadsheet to calculate where to start winding a string. . .

This program is quite interesting, but at the same time a little pointless unless you have 100 different basses all with different diameter posts.

This is true. If you change strings regularly you will already have an idea of what works for your bass.

For those that don't do it that often though it could be helpful. I know I've ruined at least 2 strings by not having enough wraps. One didn't have enough tension accross the nut, the other snapped on the sharp edge of the thru-hole on my 8-string.
 
Just thought I'd let everyone know, I finally was able to test the calculator on changing a full set of strings on my friends Yamaha bass. (I had previously only tested it on a single broken string on my 8-string)

Well it works . . . GREAT! It's kinda a relief off my mind. I hadn't gotten any feedback from users here and I has hoping no news was good news.

If anyone else has tried it, let me know how it turns out.
 
I downloaded it. I will check it out. No comment on anal as
this isn't my forum. :ninja:

But both my brother and father are engineers, so I have a
clue what you are up to. :smug:

Awe shucks. Don't try it on my account.

I truly recognize how unnecessary a program like this is. Most peoples' rule of thumb works fine. I guess I just wanted to see what it would take to get a more accurate calculation. I think the problem just intriqued me because you have to account for the stretching of the string to get an accurate result.
 
Now you are going to go make me measure and compare
my rule of thumb to your chart just for the heck of it
next time I change strings.

My rule of thumb with electric basses and acoustic 12 strings
is to allow a distance of 2 full peg holes. I.e., on an inline 4
like a jazz, insert the string into the bridge, lay it out and for
an E, cut it at the center of the peg for the D string. Two center to center peg lengths.

Now Imagonna compare that to this. I bet they are darn
close though.
 
LMAO a excell spreadsheet to learn how to do strings on posts for desired amount of wraps. Sure am glad that most everyone learns to do it by sight after a couple times.

Yes, you may laugh, but not everyone's headstocks look as good as mine. ;)

GibsonVictory.jpg
 
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As a financial analyst, I do love me a good spreadsheet. But, I have to say, I have a method that has worked for me for 20 years.

When I take off the old strings, I just match them ball end to the new ones and clip them the same length. Perfect fit every time.

If it is the first time I have strung the bass, I just take a look before I remove the old ones. If there aren't enough wraps, I clip it a little longer, if they are overlapping, I clip it a little shorter. If I don't get it perfect, I am closer than before and will dial it in the next time.

. .. My rule of thumb with electric basses and acoustic 12 strings is to allow a distance of 2 full peg holes. I.e., on an inline 4 like a jazz, insert the string into the bridge, lay it out and for an E, cut it at the center of the peg for the D string. Two center to center peg lengths. . .

I like my method better, only because I was always taught to wrap the string to the bottom of the post. So, there may be 3 wraps on my E, but the G probably has 6 or 7.
 
It was interesting comparing the tension in foot lbs of a guitar High E string to the tension of a low E bass string.

I would have thought the tension is greater but it is not (for the high E).

I had a personal interest in that one as I busted the .010 string on the high G of my 12 string -always the first one to break - and it whipped around and stuck into the lateral side of my left index finger. I tried to pull it out but it was in down to the bone, so I had to really yank on it to get it out. :atoz:

That was a first in all my years of playing. :hmm: