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fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

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I decided to paint my fEARful 15/6 cab to match my 110/6 cabs (BP102 loaded mini fEARfuls) and amphead case instead of staining it. Here's my 110/6 cabs and head...

I'll be painting the Om symbol in the same colors on the black pet screen grill cloth. Headcase will latch to the top of the 15/6 in the same way for carting.

Order from Leland is being shipped. Cab will be ready for everything by the end of today or tomorrow at the latest.

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I decided to paint my fEARful 15/6 cab to match my 110/6 cabs (BP102 loaded mini fEARfuls) and amphead case instead of staining it. Here's my 110/6 cabs and head...

I'll be painting the Om symbol in the same colors on the black pet screen grill cloth. Headcase will latch to the top of the 15/6 in the same way for carting.

Order from Leland is being shipped. Cab will be ready for everything by the end of today or tomorrow at the latest.

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Is that the Carvin bx1200 or bx1500?
 
Played the 12/6 last night in more of a rock setting. A 20X20 practice space, marshall 1/2 stack drums and vocals. My amp was running on about 50% (RBI-DCM600) and it sounded awesome. The guitarist thought I was pushing the cab too much. You think he never heard a little distortion on bass before. The 18 sound really brings it out. I had plenty left to give if needed. Anyway it sounded great. Still can't wait to get the 12/sub going though.
 
Is that the Carvin bx1200 or bx1500?

It's the BX1200 and it's a monster of an amp. With my 110/6's I was bi-amping between the tens and the mid drivers, but with the 15/6 and it's built in crossover I'll be able to bridge it into this new fEARful bad boy with 800 watts into the 8 ohm cab. 1200 watts if I add a 15 sub in the future, though I doubt I'll need that.

It isn't too heavy (as compared to the BX1500). It only weighs 22 lbs. with my newer headcase made of 1/2" ply.
 
Nice job.

Thanks. The 15/6 is getting the same paint job. Sponge painting technique using dark blue and two lighter shades of green over the top, followed by two coats of poly satin. Looks great and is durable as heck.

I've always painted my cabs with coats of poly over them and in over ten years not once have I ever even had to touch them up. Dings are scarcely noticeable and I just use regular interior latex house paint (same paint I use for my mural business). Heckuva lot cheaper than Duratex and gives me the option of painting them anyway I want.

In the future I may repaint it and do my original idea of a real dark blood red (almost black) with my custom flame job. I wanted to make it look like the cab was on fire (using a tru-flame airbrushing technique)...so perhaps when I have more time at later date I'll re-customize this sucker. I got a gig this coming Saturday and I don't have the time to do that right now.
 
It's the BX1200 and it's a monster of an amp. With my 110/6's I was bi-amping between the tens and the mid drivers, but with the 15/6 and it's built in crossover I'll be able to bridge it into this new fEARful bad boy with 800 watts into the 8 ohm cab. 1200 watts if I add a 15 sub in the future, though I doubt I'll need that.

It isn't too heavy (as compared to the BX1500). It only weighs 22 lbs. with my newer headcase made of 1/2" ply.
:)

I am currently in the state of trying to resist GAS for a BX1500.

:cool:
 
Thanks. The 15/6 is getting the same paint job. Sponge painting technique using dark blue and two lighter shades of green over the top, followed by two coats of poly satin. Looks great and is durable as heck.

I've always painted my cabs with coats of poly over them and in over ten years not once have I ever even had to touch them up. Dings are scarcely noticeable and I just use regular interior latex house paint (same paint I use for my mural business). Heckuva lot cheaper than Duratex and gives me the option of painting them anyway I want.


Nice cabs.
 
:)

I am currently in the state of trying to resist GAS for a BX1500.

:cool:

I'm in the camp that prefers having as many tonal shaping options as possible. Some prefer a simple fender tone stack with nothing more than Bass, Mid and Treble.

The BX1200 (or 1500) have pretty decent parametric and graphic EQ capabilities and one can add in some grind with the Drive control, fairly decent single knob compression, Contour knob for some quick adjust for slap, switchable Graphic EQ if you use two basses or have two distinct tones, mute switch for tuning (and a tuner out), a great adjustable DI, effects loop and of course gobs of power at your disposal. I love it...but that's me. ;)
 
Nice cabs.

Thanks. And they are pretty damn fine for output and tone given they are 110 cabs. I'll probably reload them some day with the anticipated 3010LF to replace the BP102's, but for now they are great sounding 22 lb. cab (each).

They just won't handle bigger gigs or a lot of clean low end at higher volume. Of course, the 15/6 fEARful should take care of that for me. :D
 
I'm in the camp that prefers having as many tonal shaping options as possible. Some prefer a simple fender tone stack with nothing more than Bass, Mid and Treble.

The BX1200 (or 1500) have pretty decent parametric and graphic EQ capabilities and one can add in some grind with the Drive control, fairly decent single knob compression, Contour knob for some quick adjust for slap, switchable Graphic EQ if you use two basses or have two distinct tones, mute switch for tuning (and a tuner out), a great adjustable DI, effects loop and of course gobs of power at your disposal. I love it...but that's me. ;)
I actually had a bx1500 and agree that its a great amp. One I should of kept, but I sold it to fund a RH450. One thing I was never certain about though was how to get the max volume out of it. I bridged it at 8 ohms (which is what I would do again with a 15/6) and I never quite figured out the volume thing.
 
I actually had a bx1500 and agree that its a great amp. One I should of kept, but I sold it to fund a RH450. One thing I was never certain about though was how to get the max volume out of it. I bridged it at 8 ohms (which is what I would do again with a 15/6) and I never quite figured out the volume thing.

There is a lot to the gain stage of that amp, from how you EQ to the use of the Drive control, compression and the pre/post setup.

I usually have the Drive up to maybe 7 or 8, the Active input disengaged (no input cut, even with an active bass) and the Pre Gain on Amp 1 (the control in bridged mode) up quite high. Keeping the compression off (or used judiciously) helps a lot as well. The rest is just using the EQ right to get the response desired. Then the Volume knob adjusted to the volume desired.

The Drive control itself (along with keeping the active cut on the input off even with an active bass) really gives a ton of pre gain to work with. The Drive isn't just to add grit, it sort of acts like a Pre-Gain on it's own. If you keep it too low it does take some of the preamp's output away and it takes a fair amount of Drive Control before it starts getting grindy.
 
Question for those with a 15/6 in particular, but any fearful should probably do the trick. I am wondering if my crossovers are performing properly. I've built plenty of crossovers and have checked and rechecked them many times, but the high end (coming from the mid) seems to be overly present.

This is particularly noticeable when playing music through them. Has anyone else had this experience?

Robby
 
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