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fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

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#284
mikeddd said:
Looks great, Lukejt. Quick question on your crossover: It looks like all the components are mounted to metal? Are they? Those resistors have metal cases...how can this work?
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The case is meant as a heat sink and is not electrically hot. You must do it the way he did to realize the full power rating of the resistors.

However, greenboy downgraded the wattage specs on the attenuators in his crossover designs and those resistors are still good for ~ 25 watts apiece without an external heat sink.
 
#285
Where does someone find aluminum stock to be able to use a small piece for such use? I've ended up raising my resistors up off the board, but if I'm moving to a high power amp, I may consider going in and doing it and/or cleaning up my crossover...as its gone through a handful of changes and revisions, but maybe would benefit from my remounting/cleaning up all the changes.
 
#287
BurningSkies said:
Where does someone find aluminum stock to be able to use a small piece for such use? I've ended up raising my resistors up off the board, but if I'm moving to a high power amp, I may consider going in and doing it and/or cleaning up my crossover...as its gone through a handful of changes and revisions, but maybe would benefit from my remounting/cleaning up all the changes.
Click to expand...

McMaster-Carr undoubtedly sells it, but I'd try your local machine shop first. If you want full overkill mode, try here. ;)

When I was working up crossover designs I never could get any of those resistors to even get hot to the touch. I didn't bother with raising the resistors, or air holes, or any of that. It's been a few years, still no problems. But still, it's just as easy to build in the extra safety margin...
 
#288
Passinwind said:
McMaster-Carr undoubtedly sells it, but I'd try your local machine shop first. If you want full overkill mode, try here. ;)

When I was working up crossover designs I never could get any of those resistors to even get hot to the touch. I didn't bother with raising the resistors, or air holes, or any of that. It's been a few years, still no problems. But still, it's just as easy to build in the extra safety margin...
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Ooh. Overkill. That's my middle name. How does one mount to aluminum 'finned' heatsink? Would it give me an excuse to purchase some thermal adhesive as well? ;)
 
#291
I've looked all over and can't find the info...

Anyone know what the mid on a 15/6 is crossed over at? I realize there are many things taken into consideration about it, but about where is it crossed over at? 500Hz? 700Hz? 800Hz?

Just curious as I will no longer be bi-amping and will be installing the pre-built crossover in it.
 
#292
Sundogue said:
I've looked all over and can't find the info...

Anyone know what the mid on a 15/6 is crossed over at? I realize there are many things taken into consideration about it, but about where is it crossed over at? 500Hz? 700Hz? 800Hz?

Just curious as I will no longer be bi-amping and will be installing the pre-built crossover in it.
Click to expand...

I don't know that it's ever been stated specifically in all this time...but I believe it's somewhere between 600-700hz.
 
#293
BurningSkies said:
I don't know that it's ever been stated specifically in all this time...but I believe it's somewhere between 600-700hz.
Click to expand...

I know the crossover(s) have gone through many incarnations and with all the tweaking going on, and now the Eighteen Sound 6" 6NM410 replacing the discontinued 6ND410 (with slightly different parameters) there is bound to be some variance in the crossover point.

I haven't been able to find the info and haven't been in contact with greenboy in a while (can't PM him and his e-mail keeps bouncing back to me), not that I really want to bother him with it anyway.

Just curious. Besides, I'm almost done with my build...just have to glue the back on and then I'll be puttying and sanding it. Should have the first coat of stain on this weekend yet while I wait for the speakers/hardware, so I'm just biding my time reading through everything (yet again :D).
 
#294
Sundogue said:
Should have the first coat of stain on this weekend yet while I wait for the speakers/hardware, so I'm just biding my time reading through everything (yet again :D).
Click to expand...

Nice. Ive been debating a few options and one is a 12/6/1 build and staining the cab a dark ebony color to have a little additional weight savings and still have the black cabinet look. My goals have been the lightest and loudest and smallest cab, so saving a few pounds via stain over a thick harder finish was something I debated.

I look foward to seeing your build.
 
#295
I also wanted to stain mine, but my woodworking skills are not as good as my soldering skills. I too was concerned about weight, but my cab took very little Duratex paint. I used three coats, all with the roller, it looks great, feels tough, and I only used maybe 1/8 of the gallon, I'd say 1/2" of the can of paint. I can't imagine it added much weight. Mine came in under 43lbs w/o grill (15/6). If your wood skills are up to the job, stain does look SWEET.


Guys, I scoured my house for scraps to build my crossover for a couple of days. I wound up using left over 1/2" ply, but I drilled 1.25" holes all through it to shave weight. The aluminum plate is simply a 5 1/4" drive bay blank left over from an old PC case. It did turn out to be the perfect shape. Personally I wouldn't bother buying aluminum, you should be able to find all different kinds of scrap that would fit the bill. I'm not sure it's even really needed, but it did the trick and didn't add weight.

I got the resisters off Ebay, I believe it was actually less $$ than the major suppliers due to shipping fees.

Luke
 
#297
philter25 said:
Nice. Ive been debating a few options and one is a 12/6/1 build and staining the cab a dark ebony color to have a little additional weight savings and still have the black cabinet look. My goals have been the lightest and loudest and smallest cab, so saving a few pounds via stain over a thick harder finish was something I debated.

I look foward to seeing your build.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this is going to be what's called Bombay Mahogany, which is a stain and poly all in one and it gets brushed on. I usually put on about 4 coats. Very dark, blood red and super durable. Anything I've ever done with this stuff is still in great shape. It takes dings really well where you can hardly see it (of course 4 coats of poly should do that :smug:).

I wanted something I can leave in my living room if I want and not offend the wife. The stained finish and the black cloth grill (pet screen) will make it look like a nice stereo speaker. All my other builds end up with her asking when I'm going to get it out of there. :D

Back is on and it's all done with the cutting and gluing. Now it's just waiting on the PL to cure. I'm amazed I got as far as I did with only an hour or so every evening. Difficult to get much done with a 5 year old asking for things every five minutes. :)
 
#298
BurningSkies said:
I don't know that it's ever been stated specifically in all this time...but I believe it's somewhere between 600-700hz.
Click to expand...

Depends on how you want to quantify it, which is a real can 'o worms. If you just model it electrically as a simplified cookbook circuit it looks like ~800Hz (I don't have my actual driver impedance measurements anymore, but I think I remember 'em well enough). That doesn't come close to telling the real story though, of course. Anyhow, IME it sounds pretty similar to LR 24 at 650 or so in biamped mode.
 
#300
CDweller said:
Does anybody know if a 12" Cube stacked on a 15" fEarful, both in the /6/1 configuration will provide the same stage filling volume as an 8x10 fridge?

Wondering if a 12/15 stack will do the trick for festival stages.
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Having gigged back to back with a full SVT rig and a 12/6cube + 15/6 rig, I can say that yes, the fEarful rig will fill the stage/room just as well as the fridge (and the midrange will be more consistent throughout more of the room.
 
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