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fEARful™ Part Twelve (12)

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#261
My 12/6 is finally done! Here are the photos--

The finished cab, next to my Ric:
100_1087.jpg

Detail of a dovetailed corner:
100_1092.jpg


Thanks again to everybody who helped me out during the building process. I couldn't have done it without you!
 
#265
Yea, def nice work.

From the construction to the finish ... very classy. How does it sound?

PS -- Greenboy, either there are a couple little errors in the plans for the 15/6 tube or I'm screwing something up ...

1. Shouldn't the upper left brace (the short one, to accommodate the mid range chamber) be 8.25" long ... 5" + 0.5"notch + 2.75" = 8.25" ? It's marked as 8.75"

2. In the side view of the constructed 15/6 tube cab, the back is pictured resting on top of the bottom, but shouldn't it be behind the bottom? I mean, the port divider length runs the length of the bottom, so there's no extra 1/2" for the back to rest.

k ... thanks
 
#266
I finally finished my Combo of Doom!

It's the standard 15/6 built from one of Leland's cutkits and covered with black Duratex. Leland added a 3-space airhead to incorporate my Ampeg SVP-PRO preamp and Crown XLS1500 power amp...1050 watts bridged into 8 ohms!

Of course the baffle is painted green in honor of the inventor!!!

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#268
scottbass said:
I finally finished my Combo of Doom!

It's the standard 15/6 built from one of Leland's cutkits and covered with black Duratex. Leland added a 3-space airhead to incorporate my Ampeg SVP-PRO preamp and Crown XLS1500 power amp...1050 watts bridged into 8 ohms!

Of course the baffle is painted green in honor of the inventor!!!

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Click to expand...

ohhhhh. that's awesome. I'm considering getting a cutkit/crossover in the future from leland, to replace my LDS box/crossover. Adding a 3space like that is something I'd have to do. And that has casters on it? Beautiful cab, one of my favorites that I've seen.
 
#271
Crossover question: When mounting coils to the PCB, is the coil supposed to be electrically isolated from the PCB? I.E. mounted on a riser/non-conductive material? I'm worried that if the coils are resting on the copper that they will short out.
 
#272
mikeddd said:
NICE, Scottbass! Combo of Doom, for sure! :bassist: I totally dig the green baffle. I see a few screws that appear to go through the grill, but they are not standoffs (rubber feet under the grill). What are those screws?
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike. Actually, the other screws you see do not go through the grill. They are in the surface of the baffle and go into the mid chamber base and sides. I painted the baffle first, and then had to drill and countersink a few holes into it to hold the mid chamber pieces in place as the PL adhesive dried. I probably should have waited to paint the baffle until after I had assembled it and filled and sanded the holes, but sometimes the logical order of doing things gets lost in the hurry to just get it done!
 
#273
thudfromafar said:
ohhhhh. that's awesome. I'm considering getting a cutkit/crossover in the future from leland, to replace my LDS box/crossover. Adding a 3space like that is something I'd have to do. And that has casters on it? Beautiful cab, one of my favorites that I've seen.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much! Yes, I added some 2-1/2 inch casters to the bottom. I was gonna use a set of embedded-cup, removable type casters, but I decided to just go with a set of non-removable plate-mount casters instead because I didn't want to go to the trouble of trying to seal the sockets of the removable ones.
 
#274
mikeddd said:
Crossover question: When mounting coils to the PCB, is the coil supposed to be electrically isolated from the PCB? I.E. mounted on a riser/non-conductive material? I'm worried that if the coils are resting on the copper that they will short out.
Click to expand...

The coils have an insulated coating on them already so they won't short out . A little hot glue and some tie wraps is all you need .
 
#275
ronaldpdbrandt said:
My 12/6 is finally done! Here are the photos--

The finished cab, next to my Ric:
100_1087.jpg

Detail of a dovetailed corner:
100_1092.jpg


Thanks again to everybody who helped me out during the building process. I couldn't have done it without you!
Click to expand...

I gotta say that cab with the finish and the dovetailing it has is the coolest looking cabinet I've ever seen . In about 50 years the antique roadshow will be displaying it and oohing and aahing about it being a work of art . The 12/6/1 I built with Duratex looked good but that looks awesome!
 
#277
scottbass said:
Thanks, Mike. Actually, the other screws you see do not go through the grill. They are in the surface of the baffle and go into the mid chamber base and sides. I painted the baffle first, and then had to drill and countersink a few holes into it to hold the mid chamber pieces in place as the PL adhesive dried. I probably should have waited to paint the baffle until after I had assembled it and filled and sanded the holes, but sometimes the logical order of doing things gets lost in the hurry to just get it done!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the details, Scottbass. Believe me, I understand completely about the "logical order of things getting lost." Just check my build thread for assorted "I forgots/what's this thing?/why doesn't this fit?" comedic gold. :D
 
#280
As in most things, there is no right answer. Even commercial speaker manufacturers disagree on what numbers to use.

Safest number is [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. You'll never have problems with that value. It is the continuous rating for the woofer.

Music program power rating is 900W for brief durations. But you'll never get there because your woofer is excursion limited (thankfully) to...

Excursion limit of 794W.

So, take your pick of numbers :/

fEARfulxmaxSPL.png
 
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