Fearful 12/6/1 cubes are built

[happychicken]

finally got all the wood together for the cabs and they look pretty good. Should I start sound proofing the inside first or duratex the outside first? Also I kept the back off for now to make it easier to wire and sound proof but I'm wondering if I should have just nailed it on?

 

[mbelue]

finally got all the wood together for the cabs and they look pretty good. Should I start sound proofing the inside first or duratex the outside first? Also I kept the back off for now to make it easier to wire and sound proof but I'm wondering if I should have just nailed it on?

You dont want to paint without attaching the back.
I would do the internal damping and wiring. Stick the back on and then Duratex.

Are you going to round over the corners?

 

[Bigskybassguy]

Whatever you do next, just know that you've now got one of the best-sounding bass cabs out there...not just something you plunked money down for then drove home.
The proud feeling of accomplishment is gonna stick around a long time. Congrats.

 

[happychicken]

I'm not sure about the corners?! I got these corner things that go over, do I have to round them?

 

[mbelue]

I'm not sure about the corners?! I got these corner things that go over, do I have to round them?

Which ones?
Picture?

Most people use a roundover router bit matched to the radius of the corner protectors.

There have been some that use a rasp(@wcriley ) to do just enough.

How much you need is relative to corner covers and handling.

 

[happychicken]

Yeah I don't own a router so I'll have so find another way.... Maybe sanding it down

 

[wcriley]

There have been several people who used a rasp or sander to ease the edges and under the corners.

I've been known to do things the hard way rather than spend money on tools and such, but I borrowed a router when I built my 12/6s.

 

[basscooker]

Do the flat packs come without corner and edge radii? Some reason I thought they did that for you. It would make proper assembly easier to get the first-time. If something is backwards or upside down, it'd be very obvious. Adds a lot of labor to the cost of the flat-pack, though, so I see both sides of that coin. I use a sander.

 

[Downunderwonder]

Yeah I don't own a router so I'll have so find another way.... Maybe sanding it down

Sanding birch plywood would give you some real biceps.

Presumably once these cabs are done you will be all set for a very long time, so investing in power tools is out.

If you know someone with a router I bet they would be quite happy to show it off to you on your cabs. Otherwise you'll be needing a rasp and steady hands.

 

[wcriley]

It's not really necessary to round-over all the edges.
A knife can be used to trim away a bit of wood under the corners.

 

[happychicken]

Hmmm.... Ill ask around

 

[happychicken]

Found one my buddy never used.

 

[mbelue]

It's not really necessary to round-over all the edges.

Of course not.

A knife can be used to trim away a bit of wood under the corners.

That would do.

Found one my buddy never used.

They're great tools work like a hot knife through butter.
I suggest you test it in scrap to see how fast it cuts.

 

[beans-on-toast]

I would apply the finish last. Test everything else out first. Glue the back on. Some people like to apply a bead on the inside seams with silicone to seal the cabinet seams.

 

[mbelue]

I would apply the finish last. Test everything else out first. Glue the back on. Some people like to apply a bead on the inside seams with silicone to seal the cabinet seams.

Do NOT use silicone glue inside the cabinet.
Silicone glue offgasses things that may shorten the life of your speaker.

Your PL Premium has expansion and sealing capability.

 

[dukeorock]

It'll take longer than a router, but a palm or orbital sander will get the job done in a pinch

 

[happychicken]

Ok so first I put in electronics, then sound dampen then duratex the outside?

 

[mbelue]

Ok so first I put in electronics, then sound dampen then duratex the outside?

Wire, dampen, install the back. TEST then duratex.

 

[MrLenny1]

What amp are you going to use to drive them?

 

[beans-on-toast]

Do NOT use silicone glue inside the cabinet.
Silicone glue offgasses things that may shorten the life of your speaker.

Your PL Premium has expansion and sealing capability.

If done properly, PL Premium will glue and seal as you said. In some cases, depending on how the adhesive was applied, there can be gaps where air can seep. Some people cut way the oozed PL and apply a sealant to ensure that the seams are air tight.

Using silicone in cabinets is not uncommon in the industry. It is used for joint sealing, gooping components in amps and crossovers to hold them in place and stop them from vibrating, and to seal jack plates. Silicone is also commonly used to repair torn and punctured speaker cones.

Silicone does release solvents as you said, as many products do. The key is to let it properly cure. This can take a week or longer depending on conditions. After that it is not a problem.