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Fearful 12/6/1 cubes are built

Adjust the round over bit height so that the "ledge" is not involved in the cut.

Yeah, what he said!

Practice on some scrap wood. Be sure the scrap is secured to your work surface, so it cant fly. With a router, you want to cut against the rotation of the bit. Going with the rotation is known as a "climb cut" and the router will want to pull you along. I mark rotation direction on my router plates so I can tell at a glance. (If I recall correctly, not all my routers spin the same way.)

Routers produce a high, and loud whine. Ear protection and eye protection, plus a dust mask are the way to go. They make tons of saw dust on a round over. No gloves or long sleeves. Be super respectful of that spinning bit. Both hands on the router and ease into the cut. Take your time, and let router do it's thing. If you linger too long, you may get burn marks, but they will hide under the Duratex.
 
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I slid the bit out a little and eyeballed the right depth, retightened the collet and now I'm cooking with gas. pOS still doesn't turn but it's working. This is all I think this is getting used for so no big deal
 
Alright everything I was missing crossovers, horns, alphalites, grilles came in today. Now I'm excited. I can almost here my wife screaming "turn that down you hack!".
My buddy actual found the manual for the router in his garage. It turns out you have to turn the thring really hard but it's
 
That's exactly how I did mine!! Kekani was nice enough to solder all the crossover parts and wire up the drivers!! I coated the inside of the port with Duratex *before* assembling the rest of the cab......!! I'd love to build a couple 15/6's... ....It was WAY TOO MUCH FUN!! Good luck!!;)

Kekani helped!? Bless you both, Brah! See you this Spring, if you folks are still there!!!! :D :thumbsup:
 
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Ahhhh.

I am happy to my router back in its case each time I use it. Love what they can do without operator error. No love for what mess they make with operator error.

As far as next steps, get everything that makes dust done, then finish and enjoy. Oh yeah, don't rush the construction. It is a hoot to lay in bed and puzzle through the next step. That's the best part!
 
Sorry to hear about her finger.

I found a wire diagram in this thread
SpeakerHardware fEARful (12/6 alpha) ???


I have all this stuff but mine is a 12/6/1 not 15/6/1. It's the same though right? Anyone know what "to terminal strip" means
where's the diagram? A terminal strip is a row of connection points so my guess is ''to terminal strip'' indicates "from the speaker / input speakon'' towards the crossover.
 
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Take a picture of your prebuilt crossover.

The last crossover I picked up came assembled with a terminal strip. Super easy and saved me hours over the first three "hand rolled", from scratch builds.

On the jack plate, I use two speakon inputs, with a little jumper loop between the two, so I can daisy chain cabs.

Then the input signal carries on to the terminal strip on the crossover, where the signal splits two, or three ways, through the various levels of the crossover and each branch goes to its driver.

The big parts are the low frequencies, medium parts are mid, and the little parts filter to the horn. Some branches may reverse polarity. Take it in sections.
image.jpeg

Here's a 12/6, cheap but good, crossover sitting on the port shelf of a cube. At the rear is the terminal strip, left side is the inductor and capicitor for the lows, right side inductor coil and smaller capicitor for the mid. Who ever built this used black wire for positive and white for negative. I strip black and white solid core wire out or romex. Or you can use heavy gauge speaker wire, just be aware to keep +|- sorted.

Don't worry, this isn't rocket surgery. Like everything, the first one is a mystery, but they get easier as you go. A multi meter tester is a good thing to have, mine was like $5 at harbor freight.