Fearful 12/6/1 cubes are built

[Downunderwonder]

Putting the back on will reveal just how well the rest squared up. It may be perfect but could find a corner or two where the back overlaps the box or vice versa. A skim of bondo auto filler can help out where routing to flush would leave a bendy looking edge.

 

[beans-on-toast]

Putting the back on will reveal just how well the rest squared up. It may be perfect but could find a corner or two where the back overlaps the box or vice versa. A skim of bondo auto filler can help out where routing to flush would leave a bendy looking edge.

A trick is to slightly oversize the back panel, attach it, then use a router with a flush trim bearing to cut the back panel to size.

 

[Downunderwonder]

A trick is to slightly oversize the back panel, attach it, then use a router with a flush trim bearing to cut the back panel to size.

hopefully OP's kitset went together perfectly.

 

[beans-on-toast]

hopefully OP's kitset went together perfectly.

Yes, no chance to oversize when you are assembling a kit.

 

[kekani]

Different ways to skin a cat. I damp before the box is closed. Once it's closed and everything is routed (corners, handles, recesses, etc) I Duratex everything except the top. Install the feet the next day, and everything else (electronics, drivers, etc) except top corners, Duratex the top, and the corners when dry. Done.

All in the build threads.

 

[popgadget]

Should I start sound proofing the inside first or duratex the outside first? Also I kept the back off for now to make it easier to wire and sound proof but I'm wondering if I should have just nailed it on?

There's many ways to skin a cat as they say. I build the box completely, finish the outside (typically Duratex), then install the damping material, then mount the crossover and jackplate, next comes the hardware, feet, handles, etc, then the drivers. Test it thoroughly, install the grill and test again for any rattles.
I would suggest that you glue the back in place, and do your roundovers and sanding before any internal work though.

 

[happychicken]

Will I be able to access all the areas to dampen and hook up electronics if I put the back on?

 

[popgadget]

IMHO, Yes.
Put the back in place, and check out the access through the woofer opening as well as any openings you might have for handles or jackplate.

 

[singlemalt]

I glue up the whole carcass first. Next up, a run around the outside with a flush trim bit in the router. Another lap with a 3/8" radius round over bit in the router. Suddenly the whole thing looks way more pro.

At this point, I cut the handle a jack plate holes. Then I install bracing. I like to put the bracing where the handle screws will hit. While this is going on, I'm also filling holes and fasteners with bondo body filler.

Then the whole thing gets sanded and a number of coats of Duratex. I'll spray paint black the hard to reach areas in the port.

Next up the handles and wired jack plate. You'll want some kind of sealant or gasket materiel to seal the handle and plate holes. I've used roofing membrane, rv gasket tape and silicone goop. Anything will work.

Secure all the wiring to braces. Corners, last, and you'll still need to ease the corners ab it for a good fit.

And the last woodwork bit, I install the t nuts for the drivers and grills. And make sure the drivers will install smoothly. Blow out, or vacuum the inside of the cab.

Then I do the insulation. Reason I do it like this is to be done with all the saw dust before insulation. I use quilt filling polyester material from Walmart. It's cheap, easy and non itchy. I staple it in. Lots of it. The stuff picks up saw dust like crazy, so I move into a clean space.

Last, the crossover gets screwed to the port shelf.

Wire and install the drivers and grill, and test. Be super stoked!

Still a bit of work, but you are closing in on it.

 

[happychicken]

Sorry, I will be using an mesa subway d800 to drive cabs for now.
Thanks everyone for input and advice!

Exactly how do you test the cabinets?

 

[pie_man_25]

It's not really necessary to round-over all the edges.
A knife can be used to trim away a bit of wood under the corners.

This, I'd say it looks better to round off all of the edges, but that's an opinion. Functionally you just need to get the corners to fit, and those can hide your work if you do it a bit sloppily. I'm not advocating sloppy work, I'm just saying that if you screw up there a little bit, it's no big deal.

 

[happychicken]

Oh I'll screw up trust me

 

[singlemalt]

Test?

First remove women, children, and animals from the vicinity.

Plug in your Dingwall, turn on the amp, and play.

Turn the amp up, play some more. Rinse and repeat until you need ear plugs or the neighbors stop by.

For giggles you can A/B with your old cab.

Ad the second cube.

Post some pictures on your build thread, and bask in the warm glow of a successful DYI project.

 

[kekani]

Oh I'll screw up trust me

Have some confidence. You have the box together, and if you make mistakes (we all do), who cares?

If you're like me (and I'm sure others can comment), people will come up to you and compliment your sound, ask you what kind of cab(s) that is, and you tell them a fEARful "that you made yourself", you'll get an "Oh." as response, and thats the end of the conversation.

In the meantime, have fun and enjoy the cabs, and play with your amp!

 

[hintz]

There's many ways to skin a cat as they say. I build the box completely, finish the outside (typically Duratex), then install the damping material, then mount the crossover and jackplate, next comes the hardware, feet, handles, etc, then the drivers. Test it thoroughly, install the grill and test again for any rattles.
I would suggest that you glue the back in place, and do your roundovers and sanding before any internal work though.

Thats exactly how I did mine!! Kekani was nice enough to solder all the crossover parts and wire up the drivers!! I coated the inside of the port with Duratex *before* assembling the rest of the cab...

I used painters tape to keep a clean surface for the PL premium

I then assembled most of the cab....

There was a delay on the drivers and crossover parts, so I jumped ahead on a few things like Duratex, though I avoided edges so it wouldn't be a mess routing(baffle is dry fitted in pic below)!!

Then I started adding the dampening foam

the missing piece of the puzzle, the crossover!!

And finished!!

2 biggies I learned..don't be afraid to use woodscrews as clamps, dry fit everything ...i did do some things outta order, but its all good!! I'd love to build a couple 15/6's... It was WAY TOO MUCH FUN!! Good luck!!

 

[CL400Peavey]

Also I kept the back off for now to make it easier to wire and sound proof but I'm wondering if I should have just nailed it on?

I wouldnt nail it on, I would properly attach it with PL and seal it.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

I put the damping in after 100% completion of the box. (That means the corners are rounded over, etc. Easier to blow off sawdust from an empty cab.) Not too difficult at all.

The above pics look nice, but don't worry if you can't match that level of detail or coverage. Most pro built cabs have just a thin sheet tacked to just two or three sides, or none at all.

 

[hintz]

The above pics look nice, but don't worry if you can't match that level of detail or coverage. Most pro built cabs have just a thin sheet tacked to just two or three sides, or none at all.

Thanks!! Really, I just copied the way others did the dampening and that foam that came with one of the shipments was more than enough!! I also screwed up a few things along the way, the cab *isnt* 100% square, I had to remove foam that was too close to the port shelf, as I was gluing and clamping I found the bracing would slide outta place so id have to quickly drill pilot holes and tighten screws in before it started to dry(I also dampened the wood with water to speed up the curing process)...

So if I could go back I would've done it different... I wouldn't have rushed through it so much, I would've used *less* PL *and* Duratex, drilled pilot holes for everything , I'd probably install the baffle *before* the back(might've been easier??)...but I love it and dont notice the mistakes nowadays!!

The next time I do this I plan on cutting everything myself rather than buying the flat pack, though I haven't used most of the tools needed since the early 2000's, I need some practice!!
I'm probably gonna build a 15/6 and 15 sub to biamp my GK 800RB...

Oh yeah, I regret not going with the top handle/wheel cutouts, but I'm gonna add these industrial strength wheels to the back so I wont need to cut into the cab to install the standard ones used

 

[happychicken]

Yeah that looks good!

I got my router and round over bits today. I'm going to practice on scrap first. It does look like this leaves a ledge above the round cut which I dont want but couldn't find a bit that did t leave that ledge.
I am waiting for finial shipment of crossover stuff which is pre wired so hopefully won't be hard to put together

 

[wcriley]

Adjust the base on the router to eliminate the "lip".