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fEARful 12/6 Flatpack Deluxe Kit From Speaker Hardware Build Thread & Review

One could maybe use a hammer and nails instead of a drill and screws...

...The pilot holes are necessary to keep the wood from splitting and (as I learned the hard way) it’s important to use the right size drill bit...

This got me thinking of a method of assembly which requires no screws or air nailer. It's an old carpenters trick for using finish nails and avoiding splitting: use a same-sized finish nail with the head cut off as a drill bit to drill the pilot holes. Then drive the nails into the holes. The finish nails will fit perfectly snug without splitting. You may find it less work than screws- the nails drive really easily with a single firm tap and counter sink cleanly. You don't have to change from drill bit to screwdriver bit. You'll have cleaner smaller holes, there's less patching and it will be less noticeable. If you are using tolex or duratex, you don't really need to patch at all.

All you need are some finish nails of the same size, a drill, a hammer, and something to cut the head off the nail, such as a pair of diagonal cutters. A nail set is handy, but another nail should work in a pinch to set the nails. The trick is to not hit the nail so hard you end up with a hammer dent in your work. Just enough to bring the base of the head to the surface, then set it just below the surface with the nail set.

A single nail will drill dozens of holes - especially in plywood, despite not being an actual drill bit. It will apply sufficient pressure to a joint to hold traditional non-expanding wood glue until it cures for a very strong joint. For PL or Gorilla type glue, you'll probably want to clamp as well (though you could avoid that hassle by using standard non-expanding wood glue - assuming your joints fit flush and tight).

Despite having a compressor and air nailers, I still use this technique frequently- especially when I just need to drive a few nails and the compressor isn’t set up.
 
After a night off, I'm back working on the cab.

First I did a layout of the crossover.
XoverMockup.jpg


Here's what comes with all of Leland's jack plates, not just with fEARful kits.
JackPlateKit.jpg

Plate, gasket, screws for the plate, jacks (1/4", Speakon, or 2 of each), along with the bolts, lock washers and connectors for the speakons.

Here's the assembled and wire jack plate:
WiredJackPlate.jpg


I'm using 16 guage wire. Instead of buying it, I cut the power cord off my wife's hair drier. Obviuosly, I'm joking... or I wouldn't be alive to write this. It's a power cord I cut off something years ago.

All wired up and ready to install:
WiringDone.jpg

(Before any of you tech-types mention the short leads on the caps: Yes, I used heat sinks.)

Next step is to mount the crossover on the shelf.

Note that the top of the cab has become my work platform. I do have a workbench in my shop, but...well...lets just say there's no room to work on it.
 
First a few notes about the crossover:
The crossover for a 12/6 Alpha is simpler than the crossovers for the 18 Sound mid. No resistors; just two coils and 2 capacitors. I have a bunch of NOS turret boards (that I bought back when I overestimated my ability and thought I could build a tube amp) so I spec'd "crossover components only" from Speaker Hardware.

The iron core inductor I recieved with my kit is WAY bigger than the one I used in first 12/6.
Here's the first one:
Xover.jpg

IIRC, there were "standard" and "upgrade" components listed in the Wiki back then and I cheaped out.


Now...back to the build:
I soldered the caps to the turret board and wired the coils and leads directly to it. (See post #66 above for a close up)
The iron core inductor has tabs for screwing it down. My board also has holes for mounting. I used zip-ties to fasten the air core coil.

I positioned the coils and board on the shelf and marked where I needed to drill holes for the zip-ties and pilot holes the screws.

Everything mounted:
Xoverinstalled.jpg


I lined my last cab with 2" fiberglass batting because I had it on hand. I'm lining this one with poly-fill, so I'm off to visit the women at Jo-Ann Fabric that Greenboy's always talking about.
 
The price jump in neo drivers may have scared a few of you off, but here goes, anyway.

I decided not to buy poly-fill after I found some 1" open-cell foam left over from one of the grandkids' projects. (At least I hope it was left over.)
I used 3M #45 general purpose spray adhesive.

Note: This is NOT the cab liner Leland supplies with his kits.

Lining-1.jpg


I decided to try getting the inward bow out of the side of the cab before gluing and screwing the back.
I screwed the back temporarily to the straight side and pushed the bowed side out with a piece of wood wedged between the side braces:
BowBrace.jpg


Here are before and after pics:
BowBefore.jpg


BowAfter.jpg


It will still need a little sanding and filling before I paint it, but it's a lot better than it was.
 
Ok, guys. You need to clean your bifocals.:D
There is an apostrophe there, making it plural/possesive. As in: the project belonged to one of the grandkids.:spit:

Sorry to have abandoned the thread all week, but I haven't had time to do much with the cab other than put the back on and glue small blocks of wood where the recex screws will hold the woofer.

Weather permitting, I'll take it outside this weekend to round over the corners, fill the screw holes and sand it down. After it gets a few coats of green paint and I install the drivers...it'll be rock and roll time, baby!:bassist:
 
Finally have some time to work on the cab.

Rounded off the edges this morning.

Found out that some dummy didn't close the lid tightly on his wood filler after he last used it. (Maybe I can blame it on the grandkids?)

After I get back from the hardware store and get the screw holes and such filled, I'll post some pics.
 
Sorry about the infrequent updates. My wife kicked me outside during the sanding stage of this project...and it's been raining almost every chance I've had time to work on it.

Here it is during the putty/filling/sanding stage:
Sanding.jpg




The closeout priced paint I bought is glossier than I would have liked. I might tone it down with steel wool.
Painting.jpg



I hope to have the drivers installed in time to test it out this afternoon during the weekly Criley Family Jam (known to my wife as "too much noise in the basement").