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fEARful part nine (9)

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Thank you Thud, GB and Mal.

I was concerned it was high passed too high to take advantage of the good things in the bottom register in the fEarful. If that chart is at all accurate, my fears were unfounded.

Besides, I like the Thunderfunk, and would have likely been grouchy with any other eq.

I'll try and drag an Audio Precision home next week and just measure the thing.

Thanks!

Jim
 
Here the answer you will get is to build a fEarful:

http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful™_12/6_&_15/6

My 1212/6 does a great job with the B-string.

Other possible configurations include the 15/6, or (2) 15/6 or a 1515/6 or ...

I'm surprised more people haven't built a genuine 1212/6. The cab height, the tilt-back handle and wheels, the great weight-to-max output ratio, and the close match between thermal and mechanical limits... other than dual woofer costing I'm not seeing much downside. This form factor and capacity is really suited to all but the craziest gigs where dual 3015LF would then be the ticket.
 
I'm surprised more people haven't built a genuine 1212/6. The cab height, the tilt-back handle and wheels, the great weight-to-max output ratio, and the close match between thermal and mechanical limits... other than dual woofer costing I'm not seeing much downside. This form factor and capacity is really suited to all but the craziest gigs where dual 3015LF would then be the ticket.

Am I the only one? I haven't seen any other pictures. I claim fEarful 1212/6 club member #1.

MX
 
I'll try and drag an Audio Precision home next week and just measure the thing.

Hey Jim, I always like data. So much can be learned there, and it really helps one hone their understanding of subjective hearing experiences, and their consistency in understanding them. It's real hard to BS once you see the graphs and grok what they represent.

Recently a friend died, who was a real beacon in using objective measurements to improve enclosure design and placement (and room treatment). He'd taken a lot of heat over the years in various forums for not drinking the various flavors of kool-aid that proponents of various philosophies or designs or companies were always pushing. As a real DIYer he somehow managed to turn a lot of those kool-aid pushers on their ears, and his educative efforts were always visual feasts of fine-tuned graphs and stuff from leading technical journals and papers.

And in his passing, I note that the many people he has influenced in the forums don't make many claims themselves unless they are accompanied by referenced data or referenced research. I have to say, the DIYers who followed his credo of objectivity are way ahead of the game because of him and people like him. If I had to do it all again, I'd buy the measurement/test suite before the employment situation deteriorated, and there would be a lot more objective data in this and other threads, and less verbal grasping at straws.

His catchphrase: "more data, less wank"... Carry on, Zilch!
 
Back in the early '80's, Hewlett Packard had an ad campaign based on "To measure is to know."

I was a young impressionable engineer working in the RF field in those days. It left an impression.

I think I see where I can contribute.

Jim
 
On the final lap so to speak. Finished the paint on my 12/6. Should finish my x-over tonight. But I think I've said that before. That leaves installing speakers, batting and bottle opener tomorrow. I really can't wait to hear this thing. I ordered the wrong size corners so those will wait. And MX, I am torn between the 12/sub and the 12/12/6 with a slight lean to the 12/12/6. Time will tell so you may have someone else with your cab too.
 

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Could I get someone to look over my x-over. I pretty confident about everything except when the signal hits the resisitors. It's a GB CBG for the 12/6 with the 18sound mid. All parts were ordered from Erse per the spec. The one difference is I'm bypassing the DPDT switch and just padding the mid. I will add the switch in if I go with a 12/sub at a later date. My soldering iron was having issues staying hot so my joints look like crap. Please don't worry I will resolder when I get a new iron. Any help would be appreciated in confirming I wired it up correct. if the image isn't good enough to tell PM me with an e-mail and I can send out a higher res. pic. Thanks again for any help.
 
Recently a friend died, who was a real beacon in using objective measurements to improve enclosure design and placement (and room treatment). He'd taken a lot of heat over the years in various forums for not drinking the various flavors of kool-aid that proponents of various philosophies or designs or companies were always pushing. As a real DIYer he somehow managed to turn a lot of those kool-aid pushers on their ears, and his educative efforts were always visual feasts of fine-tuned graphs and stuff from leading technical journals and papers.

And in his passing, I note that the many people he has influenced in the forums don't make many claims themselves unless they are accompanied by referenced data or referenced research. I have to say, the DIYers who followed his credo of objectivity are way ahead of the game because of him and people like him. If I had to do it all again, I'd buy the measurement/test suite before the employment situation deteriorated, and there would be a lot more objective data in this and other threads, and less verbal grasping at straws.

His catchphrase: "more data, less wank"... Carry on, Zilch!

Zilch was an amazing guy and I still can't believe he is gone. He was tireless in his pursuit and a genuinely nice person. I PMed him a couple times and he always answered me immediately and was gracious and extremely helpful in answering my questions. Which to him were most likely dumb as hell.

I have followed the Econowave thread from the beginning and to say he took alot of heat is very true. Most people don't want to wake up from their slumber and would rather do things as they have always been done.
 
I'm surprised more people haven't built a genuine 1212/6. The cab height, the tilt-back handle and wheels, the great weight-to-max output ratio, and the close match between thermal and mechanical limits... other than dual woofer costing I'm not seeing much downside. This form factor and capacity is really suited to all but the craziest gigs where dual 3015LF would then be the ticket.

I may be the next. My 1515/66 doesn't fit into my 4Runner no way, no how. Actually it would if I folded the rear seat down and slid it into the back but would have to remove the dual JBL 12's.

I just can't bring myself to that. :D
 
Could I get someone to look over my x-over. I pretty confident about everything except when the signal hits the resisitors. It's a GB CBG for the 12/6 with the 18sound mid. All parts were ordered from Erse per the spec. The one difference is I'm bypassing the DPDT switch and just padding the mid. I will add the switch in if I go with a 12/sub at a later date. My soldering iron was having issues staying hot so my joints look like crap. Please don't worry I will resolder when I get a new iron. Any help would be appreciated in confirming I wired it up correct. if the image isn't good enough to tell PM me with an e-mail and I can send out a higher res. pic. Thanks again for any help.

Your cab looks great, nice job!

The L-pad looks fine, but I'm dealing with new progressive lens glasses and I'd need a pic the size of Texas to be 100% confident right now. :p
 
i also have a crossover question: i'm about to install the xover i got from leland. it's clearly marked what goes where in terms of drivers, but i see mention of reversing polarity for the 18sound: is the xover wired with this already taken care of, or do i put the mid positive on the common terminal/mid common on the xover positive?
 
With how powerful micro heads are getting now I don't see a lot of reason for the 1212/6. But I have yet to have a gig where my 15/6 wasn't enough :) Maybe if you're really tall and need that mid driver up a little higher.

Just my pence of course, but the size of the 1212/6 is intimidating to me. Seems like you can't help but be 15lbs heavier than a 15/6 and enough bigger to be tough. I do have an effed up back though, so any more weight would not work for me.
 
My 12/6 project was the recipient of an unexpected few hours this week. It should wrap up easily tomarrow.

I'm using a Thunderfunk 420 these days, and given Ken Jung's comments about the T Funks being rolled off in the low register, I can't help but think it is time for a change.

Tone goals are a bit on the warm side, full, deep and percussive. I play a five string fretless (Barker B1.) I'm not at all hung up over weight. Volume needs are to be able to match up with a grand piano played HARD.

Any suggestions?

Yeah, try the Thunderfunk, for sure, but if you want some other suggestions, maybe try a Hartke LH1000 (definitely gets you there on the "warm" side of things), or a Carvin B1500 (not as warm, but very full, deep and percussive). Once Roger Baer starts shipping his Valkyrie heads, that may also be an excellent option. :cool:
 
I'm surprised more people haven't built a genuine 1212/6. The cab height, the tilt-back handle and wheels, the great weight-to-max output ratio, and the close match between thermal and mechanical limits... other than dual woofer costing I'm not seeing much downside. This form factor and capacity is really suited to all but the craziest gigs where dual 3015LF would then be the ticket.

+1

I'm pretty sure this is the way I would go if I decided to go fEarful.

I like the profile and don't mind the increase in size.

Biamping a 1212/6/1 (with just the high-pass circuit on the HF driver) would make for a killer rig.
 
Thanks for the input Charlie. I'll resolder and fire it up this week-end.

rpsands- the appeal if the 12/12/6 to me is how MX21 has wheels on his for transport. I haven't played the 15/6 so that looks good as well. At this point I don't have a micro head so my rack head will look a little silly on my 12/6.
 
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