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fEARful part nine (9)

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Figure around $400 - $450 for a 12/6.

Of course, price is impacted by finish and hardware choices.

Sounds about right pricewise for my 12/6. Mine weighs in at around 37lbs on my bathroom scale. My 410 weighed around 90lbs. I still need a little more batting but wanted to test it out as is. It sounds great. Can't wait to build a 12/sub to go with it. It will surely thunder at that point.
 
Sounds about right pricewise for my 12/6. Mine weighs in at around 37lbs on my bathroom scale. My 410 weighed around 90lbs. I still need a little more batting but wanted to test it out as is. It sounds great. Can't wait to build a 12/sub to go with it. It will surely thunder at that point.

I was looking at doing a 12 sub, so I'm guessing it would be less due to it only having one speaker.
 
Man, I am a ******, I finished putting everything together and testing, then went ahead and put it all together without taking pics. Got distracted by a work call and went back to it and just automatically put it all together.

Ugh. I might take it apart again or just take a snap of the inside.

It sounds fantastic - definitely noticeable difference without the variable LPad and the more precise padding amount, and the different slopes. The mid is audibly different character-wise.

The only worry I have is the mounting of the mid driver board -- I mounted both boards on the back wall since that's where it was before, but I am a little worried about the mid driver coil.

Leland, if you're here, do you think it'll be OK mounted on the back wall or should I undo everything and move it? I might have to commit seppuku halfway through if I need undo everything just as an FYI. I am never going to solder anything again so long as I love.
 
I'm bringing my cab home at the end of the month and I'll be snapping pictures inside. It is a later LDS version than rpsands's and I requested the CBG x-over, so it will be interesting to see what's in there (considering I also requested no variable L-pad but got one anyways) :p
 
I have way too much on my plate right now. (I'm sure everyone does) Is there someone who builds crossovers? It would be great to have one built for my 15/6 project (with the 6ND410) that is wired with a toggle for a bi-amping option through a speakon connector, and the -3db pad with a switch as well.
 
I was looking at doing a 12 sub, so I'm guessing it would be less due to it only having one speaker.

I think you're going to want more than the 3012LF for anything resembling a full-range sound. The driver combinations GB chose are pretty much acting as a subwoofer and mids together in one cab. The plans for the fearful subs were created so people could add a little more volume to their 12/6 or 15/6; not so much as a stand-alone. Using GBs cheap-but-good crossover, you are cutting the 12 or 15's signal around ~800hz; which would be missing quite a bit of "Your Sound".
 
It's coming along...

Is this correct for the side and back bracing?

It's not glued yet...

IMG_0073.jpg

I have a bunch more "in progress" pics

Should I just post them in thread or on the wiki?
 
I went and played a benefit tonight that was supplied with backline. Left my rig at home, threw the bass in the car and headed out, thinking, "cool, its backlined, I don't need to bring my rig"

This will never happen again.

fEarful: don't leave home without it!
 
It's coming along...

Is this correct for the side and back bracing?

It's not glued yet...

View attachment 200960

I have a bunch more "in progress" pics

Should I just post them in thread or on the wiki?

i glued my bracing after my cab was together except for the back panel. Not sure what cab you're doing but the bracing looks easier to do your way. It looks good to me but I'm no expert.
 
Leland, if you're here, do you think it'll be OK mounted on the back wall or should I undo everything and move it? I might have to commit seppuku halfway through if I need undo everything just as an FYI. I am never going to solder anything again so long as I love.

I'd either put it on the bottom, or drill some more holes and add a couple more zip ties. It's a big coil.

Best to put it on the bottom though.

Come spend an evening with me with a pile of caps, coils and resistors in front of you. :D

BTW, the flat pack 15/6 is coming along nicely. I may even meet a deadline for a change. 12/6 cube is next, it will go fast because it can be based on the 15.
 
I'd either put it on the bottom, or drill some more holes and add a couple more zip ties. It's a big coil.

Best to put it on the bottom though.

Come spend an evening with me with a pile of caps, coils and resistors in front of you. :D

BTW, the flat pack 15/6 is coming along nicely. I may even meet a deadline for a change. 12/6 cube is next, it will go fast because it can be based on the 15.

lol :) I do need to learn how to do this **** right. I always wind up with issues. What I should have done was done all the soldering needed outside of the cab and used longer wire leads and coiled'em up. Just dumb of me to do it the way I did.

Do you think it'd be OK to hot glue it in there? I've seen that done a lot. I really don't want to move it. Argh.
 
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